Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

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Yes that should work fine. I've read that sometimes usb to serial adapters don't work the greatest, but if it's all you have then you gotta go with it!
A quick search shows that all USB/serial poer adapters are not created equal. Will have to make sure I get a quality one.
 

landtank

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I called URD years ago about the maf/timing box and they said it wouldn't work. I thought it would but they insisted that it wouldn't

A cheap injector upgrade is the WRX blues. Hi impedance, low mass, increase in flow and plug in. They are setup for a 4 valve head so the spray pattern should be nice.

I picked up a set a few years ago when all those guys were moving to pinks. Can't remember the flow on the pinks but both were take outs so sets were real cheap.

edit: the blues flow 440 and the pinks flow 565
 
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Here is how the O2 manipulation works..

"The E model FTC has the Split Second EGO Signal Conditioner (ESC) function built into it. This device is used on the older trucks with the old style O2 sensors. The older trucks suffered from boost induced power surging in low boost due to the slower cycle rate of the older ECUs and O2 sensors. I have found that Toyota vehicles newer then 1999 do not suffer from this low boost induced power surging, so URD does not recommend the more expensive E model FTCs for vehicles 1999 and newer 5VZ-FE engines.

When activated the ESC replaces the signal from the O2 sensor with a signal that keeps the ECU from trimming the fuel mixture. When the ESC function is active, it will act like it is in OPEN LOOP, but the scan tool will report that the ECU is still in CLOSED LOOP mode.

You will have to tune the fuel mixture in this condition with the wideband unit and not the scan tool. If you have tuned your wide open throttle (WOT) to 12.0:1, then tune the area of the map that covers the ESC operation richer, say 11.0:1 and then have it lean down to 12.0: in true OPEN LOOP. This will eliminate the boost induced power surging, give you a very strong torquey mid range, and make a very smooth transition to true OPEN LOOP. Some people have reported that the ESC function will kick out and go lean if you stay in the activation range of the ESC too long like going up a mountain. We have never seen this at URD. The reason maybe that we set this range to a AFR of 11.0:1 to 11.5:1 and if it does lean out a bit, you are still very safe. Just be aware of this and watch for it. If you see it and it becomes a problem for you try setting the activation point higher so you are less likely to activate it. As long as you are not getting the boost induced power surging you are fine setting the activation point higher. You can turn it off by setting the activation point higher then you can possibly reach like 15 PSI. The activation point for the ESC function is found in the OPTIONS menu and OUTPUT SETTINGS. Output B should be set to OVER PRESSURE and the over pressure value is usually set for 3-4 PSI. That is the activation point of the ESC function."
 

Riad

 
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Well, this might be little off to the left field, so if I get this correctly: if I get gt35r turbo and treadstone (or some other) manifold, in addition to coming up with my own intercooler and exhaust kit, what else do I need to run a turbo with 9 psi or below so I don't have to get into fuel pump and ECU ordeal? Or is not possible to do any kind of DIY turbo without fuel pump mod and piggy back ECU?
 

scottryana

 
 
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It is semi possible and less than ideal, but you can run one on low boost like 5-6psi, depending on your intercooler setup, etc. It would be about the same as a TRD supercharger, you could run the same "volume" of air....

Well, this might be little off to the left field, so if I get this correctly: if I get gt35r turbo and treadstone (or some other) manifold, in addition to coming up with my own intercooler and exhaust kit, what else do I need to run a turbo with 9 psi or below so I don't have to get into fuel pump and ECU ordeal? Or is not possible to do any kind of DIY turbo without fuel pump mod and piggy back ECU?
 
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To do it "correctly" you need OBD2 logging capabilities, a piggyback ECU with the ability to manipulate the O2 signal. You will also need to adjust timing pre-3000RPM (from what I read the stock knock control doesn't turn on until 3000RPM) and possibly pull back timing in boost, and ultimately adjust correct AFR in boost.

That is, if you want the truck to run "like OEM".

You might be able to run 3-6 psi and not really feel any negative effects, but the more boost you run, the more obvious the problems will be.

These are just my theories and I won't be able to say anything for sure until I throw the turbo on and start tuning. Then I can compare the OEM ECU functionality and then compare it to a properly tuned setup after playing with the piggyback.
 

scottryana

 
 
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Yes correctly requires much more, but even with Toyota's own TRD Supercharger it is just relying on you running premium fuel and the computers ability to adjust fuel trim, so if you WANTED that same setup, you could do it with a turbo and I believe the outcome would be even a little better than the supercharger because you could control IAT with a nice intercooler.
 

scottryana

 
 
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No kidding. I have said it multiple times. I say you can run 5-6psi on a turbo with an intercooler while some guys with TRD Superchargers are running 8+psi. It is volume not pressure, and high intake air temps that cause pinging with the supercharger. That is why I caution over and over in the other MAF thread that people don't compare psi and look at over all volume of air.
 
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Also since it was asked above, I think a viable & affordable option for turbo choice is the Holset HX-35, 40 or hybrid. These are really just about bullet-proof & the diesel crowd throws them away like peanut shells. There is even a HX-35 center that is oil & coolant supplied as well as easily set up to run an internal wastegate or BOV.
 

Riad

 
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Thanks for the info. Sounds like a piggy back ECU is mandatory to intercept various signals and then some. I was hoping to do just run premium like the TRD SC mentioned above. Like the holset hx35. On the same note, a month or so ago contacted these guys (attached), they quoted me $3600.00 for the kit shipped to my door. Like the liquid air intercooler. Not really sure how much a DYI kit will add up to be when everything is said and done...for me this is a point of reference. cool stuff...carry on.
 

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FWIW, I am running the safari turbo, now without the "Piggy back" control, with premium fuel and spec'd plugs to go with the turbo. Myself and several others have removed the UniChip due to it running the engine to lean, likely to meet emmisions. Now, with the stock ECU running 6-7 PSI AFR's are between 10.75 and 12.5 with no timing issues. I think turbocruiser even bumped his up to 9.5 PSI and is still fine with stock ECU. SO, you can deffinetly run a turbo at low boost on the stock ECU without a bunch of computer or timing changes. I'm not sure how it would perform on an emmisions test, but I bet there is someone out there who has had it tested with the given setup...
 
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Well like I said before, you can probably do it, but it is not ideal and there is plenty of room for improvement.

You're taking an N/A ECU with fuel and timing set for N/A and just slapping on a turbo and hoping for the best.

Have these trucks been dynoed? You have actual AFR readings during WOT pulls? Do you have any type of knock sensor monitoring? Plug readings after a wide open pull?

I will have all of these questions answered in the next month or so when I dyno.
 
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Man-A-Fre was the outfit that imported the Safari turbos here and actually walked it through the C.A.R.B certification for emissions in California. It's anyone's guess what the UniChip settings were but the boost was set at 6 psi. Under those conditions it passed the California smog tests.

I had it running around 8 psi without the UniChip and a single 3" Magnaflow cat (Cali-spec) and passed the emissions tests twice with no issues. The big caveat though is since our trucks are AWD none of the tests were under load on a dyno. Just at idle and I believe 3500 rpms.

Regardless the OP is dead on. If you want it set up properly you'll have to give the ECU different inputs. The bad part is there is a certain simplicity in just using a Haltech and MAP sensor and being in complete control - but so it goes "speed = $$$$"
 
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