DIY 4.3 Re-Gear (3 Viewers)

[TLC2013]

Been reading and rereading this post. Good stuff here. Thanks to everyone for their R&D especially @TeCKis300

I am ordering parts to complete the DIY 4.30 regear with the tundra front and 100 series rear. Am I reading this correctly that the 100 rear diff with its smaller input shaft and pinion gear is holding up fine and has not caused any issues ? Are there updates form long term users running this 100 series rear diff?

@TeCKis300 , @highfructose , @TexAZ

 

[TexAZ]

Pushing 270k miles running 35s. No issues so far. The factory locker won't clear the cruiser sway bar. There are air cylinders the 80 series guys have adapted to replace the failure prone mechanical actuator.

 

[TLC2013]

Pushing 270k miles running 35s. No issues so far. The factory locker won't clear the cruiser sway bar. There are air cylinders the 80 series guys have adapted to replace the failure prone mechanical actuator.

Right on, that’s good to hear, is that 270k on the 100 series 4.30 gears? I plan on also going with 35’s with this set up.

 

[TexAZ]

270 k on my truck. 100 with the gears in it. I think the donor had 140. Hard to say when buying used. Shouldn't be any issue running 35s. If your running 35s, think about upgrading the brakes as well.

 

[TLC2013]

270 k on my truck. 100 with the gears in it. I think the donor had 140. Hard to say when buying used. Shouldn't be any issue running 35s. If your running 35s, think about upgrading the brakes as well.

Good to hear that they are holding up well over some extended use like yours.

 

[TeCKis300]

Been reading and rereading this post. Good stuff here. Thanks to everyone for their R&D especially @TeCKis300

I am ordering parts to complete the DIY 4.30 regear with the tundra front and 100 series rear. Am I reading this correctly that the 100 rear diff with its smaller input shaft and pinion gear is holding up fine and has not caused any issues ? Are there updates form long term users running this 100 series rear diff?

@TeCKis300 , @highfructose , @TexAZ

Yes, the 100-series pinion shaft is incrementally smaller in diameter to the 200-series part. No consequence in my use and has been completely transparent, like factory. I'd like to think I've been putting it through its paces with HD use in towing and regular off-roading and it's worked great.

 

[TLC2013]

Yes, the 100-series pinion shaft is incrementally smaller in diameter to the 200-series part. No consequence in my use and has been completely transparent, like factory. I'd like to think I've been putting it through its paces with HD use in towing and regular off-roading and it's worked great.

Good feedback. Thanks for the update. Seeing how you tow and off-road on the regular gives me more then enough confidence with this type of real world testing to not even blink an eye.
I am waiting on the delivery of the tundra front (out of a 2019 with 50k) and 100 4.30 rear (supposedly with 161k).
This is an extremely economical way to upgrade gearing and remain all OEM.

 

[highfructose]

Working on the carrier side bearings. The bearing needs to be driven past the snout of the case. Not by much, probably 2mm. I don't have the right size pipe/socket/fixture to do the job. And can't drive from the bearing cage.

Came up with a crazy hair to make a tailored size ring from a length of solder. The right diameter for the race, and just thick enough that driving with a flat bearing driver would put pressure on the inner race. Wrapped the section around a smaller size socket, then closed the ends to the right diameter by soldering them together. Yes, it's soft, but with enough area, would it do the job? I had plan C and D ready to do the same 12 gauge thhn solid copper from romex or welding wire.

Woohoo, did the job like a champ!

View attachment 2359501

Would anyone happen to know the exact part/tool that a shop would use for the “pipe/socket/fixture to do the job”?

The video I found the guy uses a lathe to manufacture a perfect piece of metal…I don’t have a lathe and I don’t solder.

Is there a “perfect tool for the job?”

 

[bloc]

Would anyone happen to know the exact part/tool that a shop would use for the “pipe/socket/fixture to do the job”?

The video I found the guy uses a lathe to manufacture a perfect piece of metal…I don’t have a lathe and I don’t solder.

Is there a “perfect tool for the job?”

Take the old bearing, cut off the cage and rollers, then use a sanding wheel on a dremel to open up the ID very slightly of the side that tapers down.. the same side that is pointed up in that picture. The perfect bearing driver. Since it is opened up slightly it’ll come right off the diff carrier.

Note that the steel is too hard for something like a metal file to be effective. Or a carbide grinding wheel. It has to be sanded..

Doing that to one end of a bearing race OD is how I pressed the large pinion bearing into the case on my Toyota 8” gear setup years ago. The end of the race that is facing out is very thin, and is recessed into the third member, so using an old bearing will get it very stuck, unless it is sanded a bit.

 

[TeCKis300]

Would anyone happen to know the exact part/tool that a shop would use for the “pipe/socket/fixture to do the job”?

The video I found the guy uses a lathe to manufacture a perfect piece of metal…I don’t have a lathe and I don’t solder.

Is there a “perfect tool for the job?”

The shops I have seen have piles of various various old bearing cases and ginned up tools for various applications.

Thinking back, I think you could do this with an old wire hanger bent to the right diameter. Or a short segment of 10 or 12 gauge solid copper wire. They'll both hold their shape enough for this without soldering.

 

[ROMR NTX]

Would this be all that's needed to wire up the locker from an LX470 diff?

Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road

<h2>Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road</h2> <p>Toyota locking axles are great choices for axle swaps. 8" E-locker differentials are strong and versatile. Wiring a Toyota E-locker differential to work outside of its donor vehicle is possible but not as simple as...

lowrangeoffroad.com

 

[highfructose]

Would this be all that's needed to wire up the locker from an LX470 diff?

Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road

<h2>Ultimate Toyota E-Locker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off-Road</h2> <p>Toyota locking axles are great choices for axle swaps. 8" E-locker differentials are strong and versatile. Wiring a Toyota E-locker differential to work outside of its donor vehicle is possible but not as simple as...

lowrangeoffroad.com

Lc100’s had lockers in the rear available I think in 98 and 99…lx470’s I think had limited slip diffs in the rear available in those years.

 

[ROMR NTX]

Lc100’s had lockers in the rear available I think in 98 and 99…lx470’s I think had limited slip diffs in the rear available in those years.

Ah, well either way looking to buy a new OE rear in 4.3 with the factory locker. Like Jowett linked earlier in the thread Wondering if this kit will wire it up.

 

[bloc]

Ah, well either way looking to buy a new OE rear in 4.3 with the factory locker. Like Jowett linked earlier in the thread Wondering if this kit will wire it up.

You’re aware you’ll have to weld & cut on the axle housing and drill/tap/swap out some of the third member studs right? Your non-KDSS sway bar will clear at least.

 

[ROMR NTX]

You’re aware you’ll have to weld & cut on the axle housing and drill/tap/swap out some of the third member studs right? Your non-KDSS sway bar will clear at least.

I've seen longer studs and "notching" the housing references on here. Both within my capabilities. Haven't seen any welding mentioned, But I have friend who's capable.

 

[bjowett]

Notch and stud changes are the only requirements.

 

[bloc]

I've seen longer studs and "notching" the housing references on here. Both within my capabilities. Haven't seen any welding mentioned, But I have friend who's capable.

For the welding/drilling/tapping part I was thinking of the Toyota 8” elocker conversion. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[ROMR NTX]

Notch and stud changes are the only requirements.
View attachment 3542397

Thanks. Do you think that wiring harness above will work?

I've seen the wiring diagram Boston Mangler posted. Seems doable, but a more plug and play solution would be nice.

 

[bjowett]

For the welding/drilling/tapping part I was thinking of the Toyota 8” elocker conversion. Sorry for the confusion.

Uhhggg! I forgot about the welding on the 8” swap… wasn’t trying to be a know it all there.

I also don’t recall if that harness will work with with the 9.5”… need to look again.

 

[TLC2013]

After inspecting the 3rd member all looked good with exception to one of the Diff Case Side Bearings.
The splines inside all look good , no visible wear. Just some heavy scarring on one side of the bearing.
Does this look like unsual wear and something that should be addressed before install? Or could this simply be damage that incurred during the removal by the "ebay pick n pull" seller. Hard to imagine they could scar and damage the bearing when removing the axle shafts.