Dissent off-road no cut rear bumper installation instructions (1 Viewer)

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I have the other hitch which mounted in the frame; it uses an adapter bolted in place to hold a receiver ball-mount. The hole pattern on your standard rear frame and the frame with the square hole are different, which is why the holes on the center piece and the bumpers pieces are slotted to accommodate both patterns. All four holes on my frame were threaded, so the installation of the center piece is different (no through bolts or use of the spacers). He covers that in the instructions.

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Nice.l thanks for the clarification. I was going through my hardware set for the bumper last night, and was puzzled at how the through bolt would go through my factory bumper hitch (threaded). So the correct thing to do here is to use x4 M12 bolts, and not the 4” long bolts (x2).

I think this sums it all up. Every nut/bolt accounted for and looking fwd to throwing it on 👍
 
I realize its almost a year old since this tip was posted... but I also agree it would be nice to have a spacer inside the "box"...

I looked up what a stainless spacer in this spec would cost, and McMasterCarr was coming up with $34 each. No Bueno.
Also, the "perfect" interior dimension (if your box isn't crushed yet) seems to be near 1 7/8". Mine is still new and being assembled,
and I plan to use a 1 7/8 Coupling Nut with a 3/4" ID hole as my Spacer...

At $6 each.. I'll get 2 and grind the end if its a tad too snug. Also plan to paint it for an extra layer of corrosion resistance.

McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/91034A130/

...but so far so good.. assembly is going well.
continuing with this train of thought... and wanting to have a spacer inside the spare tire carrier so it doesn’t crush when clamped, I got the 1 7/8th coupler nut and shave a sliver off the end, and painted it with rustoleum to protect the bare metal. Fits perfect in the carrier. The 1/2” clamping bolts just slide right through (while using a magnet to guide the coupler into place).

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One other question...

I see a bend on the flat plate of the tire carrier frame (right above where it colts to the swing arm)... it looks intentional, so I’m wondering if I’m missing something here.

I’m under the impression it will flatten out when I do final torquing. Is it for some kind of preload? Will send question to Ben as well, but mainly checking if this is normal.

***heard back from Dissent. It’s normal. Just torque the bolts and it’ll flatten out...(attached to the swing arm flange too of course) 👍

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continuing with this train of thought... and wanting to have a spacer inside the spare tire carrier so it doesn’t crush when clamped, I got the 1 7/8th coupler nut and shave a sliver off the end, and painted it with rustoleum to protect the bare metal. Fits perfect in the carrier. The 1/2” clamping bolts just slide right through (while using a magnet to guide the coupler into place).

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Doesn't hurt, but not necessary if the lower part of the tire is pressed against the carrier as designed.
One other question...

I see a bend on the flat plate of the tire carrier frame (right above where it colts to the swing arm)... it looks intentional, so I’m wondering if I’m missing something here or if it’s correct?

I’m under the impression it will flatten out when I do final torquing. Is it for some kind of preload? Or am I doing something wrong? Will send question to Ben as well, but mainly checking if this is normal.

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make sure everything is aligned and torque them down and it will mate together.
 
There are 6-7 different bolts in the package for a base bumper (not including swing outs) but the instructions do not call out where each size is used. Do any of you have this information handy?
 
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There are 6-7 different bolts in the package for a base bumper (not including swing outs) but the instructions do not call out where each size is used. Do any of you have this information handy?
I’m not sure if the bolts come numbered in bags from Dissent but in case you have them all mixed in one bag then this post should be helpful.

#1 and #5 are for the hitch plate. Some will not use #1 and all of #5, some will use #1 and two of #5.

#6 should be for the hinge bolts to plug the swing arm bolt holes.

#4. M14 for the lower frame bolts.

#2. Through bolts for the wing stiffener where you drill the hole in the frame.

#7 hitch plate and lower wing stiffener bolts.

#3. Swing arm nut plates for aluminum bumper.

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Finally installed my aluminum rear base bumper. @benc was super helpful answering all my questions like always.

Haven’t wired the backup lights and trailer harness (already have one installed, not sure if there’s a reason to install the one provided by Dissent). Will get to those once I receive dual swingouts.

Like @suprarx7nut & @froto1, there isn’t enough clearance for bottom hitch bolts and will have to reach out to @benc for jam nut and short bolt.

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For the license plate light, which wire did you all tap into? (Also routing wire ideas)

Thank you in advance
I tapped into the trailer harness for the license plate light and then the backup lights were wired to the driver side taillight (i only have the 6 pin in my trailer so no backup lights).

While in there I also wired my backup camera to the taillight and mounted it to the license plate bracket on the shelf side.

There's a grommet on the taillight you can go through to get the backups pretty easily.
 
I tapped into the trailer harness for the license plate light and then the backup lights were wired to the driver side taillight (i only have the 6 pin in my trailer so no backup lights).

While in there I also wired my backup camera to the taillight and mounted it to the license plate bracket on the shelf side.

There's a grommet on the taillight you can go through to get the backups pretty easily.
How bright were the included back up lights? I was considering just running a switch and wires to my dash because I didn't want to blast people all the time.
 
How bright were the included back up lights? I was considering just running a switch and wires to my dash because I didn't want to blast people all the time.
So bright....

They are only on when backing up so I'm not worried about it. They do the job but definitely wouldn't recommend staring at them
 
I wouldn't worry about blasting folks. It's the right balance of brightness for visibility at night but not an obnoxious amount where people would be annoyed. It is actually nice being able to use them to throw a little light behind you on dark nights off the pavement. Again, the lights are not so bright that you turn into that guy during daytime and city driving.
 
continuing with this train of thought... and wanting to have a spacer inside the spare tire carrier so it doesn’t crush when clamped, I got the 1 7/8th coupler nut and shave a sliver off the end, and painted it with rustoleum to protect the bare metal. Fits perfect in the carrier. The 1/2” clamping bolts just slide right through (while using a magnet to guide the coupler into place).

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I followed your lead and it worked great. Thanks for the tip!
 
Still fine tuning things and finalizing the wiring... but done for the most part...

-got extended bolts for the Hi-Lift jack, and running wing nuts for easier use (and will be padlocked for security)
-accessory tray is rotated as per wifey’s request, to use as platform when open

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Made my harness for Tow plug, rev & Lic plate light… All plug and play now, and should be easily serviceable if needed.

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I used a 7 way adapter with the new harness, reverse lights and license plate/3rd brake light all going into it. My vehicle had the factory round 7 way trailer harness, so I unbolted it, ziptied it up as high as possible and simply plugged in the adapter to it.
 
I used a 7 way adapter with the new harness, reverse lights and license plate/3rd brake light all going into it. My vehicle had the factory round 7 way trailer harness, so I unbolted it, ziptied it up as high as possible and simply plugged in the adapter to it.
Nice.. that's a better way to do it since you dont have to modify any stock harnesses.

I was planning to go that route too, but turned out I ordered a wrong 7pin trailer connector... (didnt know there were variations)
Anyway, I just returned it and ended up cutting my factory harness to build my new one.
Still have the old connection port so its possible to go back to stock if needed (just need to splice it back).

The part you ordered is the correct one to get~
 
What straps are you guys using to tie down jerry cans to the accessory table?
 
What straps are you guys using to tie down jerry cans to the accessory table?
@LCT According to their Instagram account:
dissentoffroad Our shop and the entire surrounding area are without power since Monday due to a significant storm. There is no update when power may be restored, and we will have very limited ability to respond to customers. Thank you for your patience.
 
@LCT According to their Instagram account:
dissentoffroad Our shop and the entire surrounding area are without power since Monday due to a significant storm. There is no update when power may be restored, and we will have very limited ability to respond to customers. Thank you for your patience.
@benc and crew have been busy pumping out parts, so I doubt they'd respond here. Was hoping someone who installed Dissent or aftermarket bumper would respond.
 

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