Progress! Everything but the reservoir and shocks have been removed. Time to start on the rear lift, waiting on parts for the front lift.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Little update.
If an check engine light comes on, it will display a vsc warning and the 4lo light will blink.
The 2 cases this has happened to me was because I left the gas cap loose. Once tightened and the evap code cleared the vsc warning and blinking 4lo light go away.
No issues passing a smog check this weekend either.
Little update.
If an check engine light comes on, it will display a vsc warning and the 4lo light will blink.
The 2 cases this has happened to me was because I left the gas cap loose. Once tightened and the evap code cleared the vsc warning and blinking 4lo light go away.
No issues passing a smog check this weekend either.
In your opinion a 2" OME lift would work after the disable without swapping uppers and lowers?Yeah, same code I mentioned in a previous post.
U0132 fault code.
"Lost communication with suspension control module A"
It should work, but if you're just looking for increased ride height, you can raise the normal ride height ~2" by using the factory strut spacer and adjusting the sensor brackets.In your opinion a 2" OME lift would work after the disable without swapping uppers and lowers?
It should work, but if you're just looking for increased ride height, you can raise the normal ride height ~2" by using the factory strut spacer and adjusting the sensor brackets.
Unless the AHC system is in disrepair, I wouldn't replace it for a basic 2" OME lift. The OME BP51 system would be a good replacement.
thanksDon't use a tundra spacer. There's not enough bolt thread in the top hat to accommodate any larger of a spacer. You also risk serious suspension damage if the strut now becomes the compression stop limitor.
Spacers for AHC are more about restoring load capacity with a sensor lift.
You can get all the lift you want with AHC, and then some to fully peg out the stock suspension travel. My opinion, but even BP51s would be a huge downgrade to what AHC provides.
Looks great! What size tires are you running? Any wheel spacers?Hi all,
I just want to update information. I have deleted the whole AHC systems and been driving around since August 2020 and 5,000 KM without problems.
I am very happy with @turbo8's work. His work was really awesome and easy. Actually, I have been waiting for information about that since 6 years HAHAHA .
Then, I have tested drive about 5,000KM. The result was successful and no warning or error display.
This is my car Land Cruiser 200 (VDJ200 UK version) below
View attachment 2456388
What I have done:
- Old man Emu Nitrocharger 2"
- Rear coil spacer OME2722
- Superpro UCA
When I turned off and removed the AHC system and converted to OME lift.
View attachment 2456394
Here I have changed the OME lift with superpro UCA below..
View attachment 2456395
BEFORE:
View attachment 2456470
AFTER:
Both the engine check light and height sensor errors will not come out on speedometer display.
View attachment 2456462
Thank you very much to @turbo8 for helping. His information was really helpful .
Is there anyone who uses OME BP-51 on Land Cruiser 200 or Lexus LX570? Is there problem on BP51?
THANK YOU!
Looks great! What size tires are you running? Any wheel spacers?
No, for example. King 2.5" reservoir shocks mount the reservoirs in a location that won't interfere with AHC components.
If sway is a priority of yours I don’t think this will help. The LX sway bar isn’t particularly stiff, with the AHC suspension designed to help control some of the body roll during cornering. With eliminating AHC and adding longer travel “dumb” shocks in all likelihood the sway will get worse.If I got the 2.5” option that left the AHC components in place, could I run them without the rattling you experienced?
I’m assuming you had the rattling because half your components were removed?
My goal is to swap to kings but keep everything in place should I want to revert back to original or sell the truck.
My main reason for the conversion is that I cannot stand the side to side sway when turning in my 13 LX. If I can’t get rid of that, I’ll likely sell the truck. I will be extremely satisfied if I can get a more stable, less wallowy ride out of my LX!
Also- is it impossible to run a front sway bar? Why is everyone running without one?
If sway is a priority of yours I don’t think this will help. The LX sway bar isn’t particularly stiff, with the AHC suspension designed to help control some of the body roll during cornering. With eliminating AHC and adding longer travel “dumb” shocks in all likelihood the sway will get worse.
If I got the 2.5” option that left the AHC components in place, could I run them without the rattling you experienced?
I’m assuming you had the rattling because half your components were removed?
My goal is to swap to kings but keep everything in place should I want to revert back to original or sell the truck.
My main reason for the conversion is that I cannot stand the side to side sway when turning in my 13 LX. If I can’t get rid of that, I’ll likely sell the truck. I will be extremely satisfied if I can get a more stable, less wallowy ride out of my LX!
Also- is it impossible to run a front sway bar? Why is everyone running without one?