Disabling the AHC and AVS systems, no warning lights.

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So, installing the shocks and springs is the easy part…

IMG_2136.webp


I’m down to the passenger rear valve block and then will pull my dissent bumper and slip the pump out.

There are two really long lines that are above the gas tank / exhaust that I’m not mad enough about to extract.

This stuff is seriously heavy (in a robust way). Factoring in the hardware and guards For the accumulators, I suspect it’s 150+ pounds. Will throw it all in a bucket and weigh it once I’m done.
 
So, installing the shocks and springs is the easy part…

View attachment 3877232

I’m down to the passenger rear valve block and then will pull my dissent bumper and slip the pump out.

There are two really long lines that are above the gas tank / exhaust that I’m not mad enough about to extract.

This stuff is seriously heavy (in a robust way). Factoring in the hardware and guards For the accumulators, I suspect it’s 150+ pounds. Will throw it all in a bucket and weigh it once I’m done.
It is so nice having all that free space and not worrying about it getting damaged.
 
It’s okay to change your mind 😁

After seeing how crusty all of the lines and components are as in removing them, I feel good about my decision.

Ride is dialed in now. IMO high end aftermarket stuff wins on dampening and rebound control. AHC wins for versatility.
Is the ride more or less “tame” without the AHC?
 
Is the ride more or less “tame” without the AHC?

Not exactly sure what tame means to you, but with adjustability of the components I’ve chosen I can relax it to trophy truck or tighten it up beyond AHC sport mode. It’s not as convenient as the selector in the cab but it’s only 4 knobs in my case, and range of adjustment is enormous.
 
I’m curious if anyone here is running a thick rear sway bar and no front sway bar, similar to what Kai talks about here



Nolothane makes up to a 33mm rear for the LX and I’m tempted to try it without a front sway bar.
 
I’m curious if anyone here is running a thick rear sway bar and no front sway bar, similar to what Kai talks about here



Nolothane makes up to a 33mm rear for the LX and I’m tempted to try it without a front sway bar.

No front swaybar and stock rear swaybar for me.
 
has anyone done this delete with a 2016+?
 
Slightly longer shocks plus rear sway bar drop brackets made the rear axle boogie in a good way this week.

IMG_2562.webp


Wouldn’t quite call it long travel, but notably more than what I was getting stock.
 
Hey everyone. Didn't want to start a new thread, hopefully all the AHC delete gurus hang out here.

I deleted my AHC a while back in my 2010 LX570 following the procedure and everything is working fine (no warning lights). But I noticed that when I turn on the headlights for the first time after starting up the truck, they turn on and then immediately the leveling thing makes them aim down and so I can't see anything when driving at night.

What should I do ? Is there a way to prevent this ? I thought about adjusting the height of the headlights with the screw but since they were aiming fine before I deleted the AHC, I don't want to "cheat" it if there is a correct way to fix them.

Thanks in advance !
Hi ! Just wanted to give everyone a quick update on this if it can help others. I got TechStream working on my laptop as well as the full 200 series FSM. Scanned the truck and saw a bunch of AFS codes stored in history.

Cleared the codes and now the headlights are pointing straight. Problem solved.

My guess is I must've done something wrong in the AHC delete procedure with the AFS fuse removal and all.
 
So, installing the shocks and springs is the easy part…

View attachment 3877232

I’m down to the passenger rear valve block and then will pull my dissent bumper and slip the pump out.

There are two really long lines that are above the gas tank / exhaust that I’m not mad enough about to extract.

This stuff is seriously heavy (in a robust way). Factoring in the hardware and guards For the accumulators, I suspect it’s 150+ pounds. Will throw it all in a bucket and weigh it once I’m done.

I’m curious if anyone here is running a thick rear sway bar and no front sway bar, similar to what Kai talks about here



Nolothane makes up to a 33mm rear for the LX and I’m tempted to try it without a front sway bar.


Catching up on a couple of things related to AHC delete:

1. After fully deleting all of the hardware, I had a seriously stink-bug stance. Ride was fine but it was sitting at like 3-3.5” lift in the back so I went down to a 20mm shorter spring. New stance:

IMG_5017.webp


2. I said I wasn’t, but I did, I swapped the rear slinky sway bar for a 30mm Nolathane for a non-KDSS truck. @sedole did the same thing. This is such a huge improvement to overall enjoyability even though it’s only 10-15% stiffer.

IMG_5097.webp


IMG_5098.webp
 
Glad you liked the nolathane rear bar too!
 
Hi everyone!

I just picked up a 2011 Land Cruiser 200 (LHD, European spec). The previous owner swapped the stock suspension for an OME BP-51 setup, but I’m getting a 'Check 4WD system AHC' warning on the center display.

I’ve already removed the kick panels on both sides and the glove box searching for the AHC ECU, but I can't find it.

I’d like to start by getting rid of the warning light. I’ve noticed that on the Lexus side (LX570), some people pull certain fuses to disable the system, but I haven't tried that yet.

Has anyone dealt with this before and can lend a hand? It’s a fantastic rig and runs perfectly, but having that warning constantly popping up is really annoying.

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi everyone!

I just picked up a 2011 Land Cruiser 200 (LHD, European spec). The previous owner swapped the stock suspension for an OME BP-51 setup, but I’m getting a 'Check 4WD system AHC' warning on the center display.

I’ve already removed the kick panels on both sides and the glove box searching for the AHC ECU, but I can't find it.

I’d like to start by getting rid of the warning light. I’ve noticed that on the Lexus side (LX570), some people pull certain fuses to disable the system, but I haven't tried that yet.

Has anyone dealt with this before and can lend a hand? It’s a fantastic rig and runs perfectly, but having that warning constantly popping up is really annoying.

Thanks in advance!

It’s behind the second row seat, left side. You can see it if you pop the panel behind the door frame.
 
It’s behind the second row seat, left side. You can see it if you pop the panel behind the door frame.
Oh! Thank you so much for the quick response. At the level of the 3rd row of seats? Do I need to remove the 3rd-row seat or any of the seatbelts? Thanks again!
 
Oh! Thank you so much for the quick response. At the level of the 3rd row of seats? Do I need to remove the 3rd-row seat or any of the seatbelts? Thanks again!

Nope it’s literally behind the middle row interior panel, in front of third row
 
Oh! Thank you so much for the quick response. At the level of the 3rd row of seats? Do I need to remove the 3rd-row seat or any of the seatbelts? Thanks again!
Check this video out
 
Check this video out


Hi again!

I’ve followed the steps, and my Launch scan tool now confirms the AHC system is set to “not equipped.” Definitely a step in the right direction!

However, the center display still shows the “Check 4-WHEEL AHC system” warning. I’m now pulling error code U0132: "Lost Communication with Suspension Control Module (SCM)."

Do I need to pull any other specific fuses to clear this? I suspect this communication error is what's triggering the warning on the dash.

Any ideas or insights would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the help!
 
Hi again!

I’ve followed the steps, and my Launch scan tool now confirms the AHC system is set to “not equipped.” Definitely a step in the right direction!

However, the center display still shows the “Check 4-WHEEL AHC system” warning. I’m now pulling error code U0132: "Lost Communication with Suspension Control Module (SCM)."

Do I need to pull any other specific fuses to clear this? I suspect this communication error is what's triggering the warning on the dash.

Any ideas or insights would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the help!

Reset the ECU by pulling the main ecu fuse under the hood. This will force all of the canbus modules to be rediscovered again.
 
Reset the ECU by pulling the main ecu fuse under the hood. This will force all of the canbus modules to be rediscovered again.
I have 2 fuses: ECU-B1 and ECU-B2 on the main fuse box. I have tried with the ECU-B1 only (following the video). But does not work.. :(
 
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