Difficulty Starting Engine (1 Viewer)

[MOC]

I'm having a little trouble getting my 40 started in colder weather. The battery is a month old and the starter turns great. The truck is in great condition and runs great otherwise so I'm betting the problem is operator error. I put the gas pedal to the floor once, pull the choke and turn the key without pumping the gas. If I push the gas pedal to the floor while turning the key, the engine gets close to starting but then I think I flood the engine. Any ideas/advice? Thanks.

 

[fjc-man]

Let the flood of information begin....from you, that is. What year, all original, stock carb, distributor, etc. oh and lots of pictures.

 

[Downey]

As I recall, one of the wires connected to the starter give extra voltage on starting only, perhaps you've lost that connection ?????

 

[Dizzy]

Mine is a weak 2F that needs no accelerator pump, on a cold day.

If the throttle blade is at too steep of an angle, there won't be fast moving air at the slow speed fuel mix circuits. If the starter turned the motor at a pace equivalent to the amount of throttle that equates to how much you are pressing the accelerator, then it would have the vacuum necessary to start, but, the starter isn't going to turn the motor at the rate to pull from the main nozzle.

Also, remember that poorly burnt fuel will carbon up your plugs. So, I try to never pump the accelerator, unless the carburetor needs a trigger for the auto choke.

Toss a coin: spark, or fuel/valves?

As I recall, one of the wires connected to the starter give extra voltage on starting only, perhaps you've lost that connection ?????

Jim, IIRC that extra starter wire allows full voltage to the coil during starter operation.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Say a short prayer, rub her dash...tell her she’s a good Land Cruiser....

Then....

Three pumps, foot off the gas.
Full choke....ignition.....fire....push in choke slowly ‘till idle is rough then out a tad to smooth her out.

Once you see the temperature start to come up, then you could probably push the choke fully in.

 

[MOC]

Let the flood of information begin....from you, that is. What year, all original, stock carb, distributor, etc. oh and lots of pictures.

Let the flood of information begin....from you, that is. What year, all original, stock carb, distributor, etc. oh and lots of pictures.

Let the flood of information begin....from you, that is. What year, all original, stock carb, distributor, etc. oh and lots of pictures.

She's a '75 that I just bought 2 months ago so we're still getting acquainted. PO did a great job on the renovation so there are only a few small issues to resolve. The honeymoon was awesome but now winter is coming and we're settling in to real life.
Not certain but I think the carburetor and starter are stock. The air cleaner and ignition coil obviously aren't stock. I'm sure I need to learn how she likes to be treated (you'd think I'd know that this late in life!) but I appreciate the advice.

 

[MOC]

As I recall, one of the wires connected to the starter give extra voltage on starting only, perhaps you've lost that connection ?????

The starter turns strong but I'll check that wire to see if there's power to it. Thanks.

 

[MOC]

Mine is a weak 2F that needs no accelerator pump, on a cold day.

If the throttle blade is at too steep of an angle, there won't be fast moving air at the slow speed fuel mix circuits. If the starter turned the motor at a pace equivalent to the amount of throttle that equates to how much you are pressing the accelerator, then it would have the vacuum necessary to start, but, the starter isn't going to turn the motor at the rate to pull from the main nozzle.

Also, remember that poorly burnt fuel will carbon up your plugs. So, I try to never pump the accelerator, unless the carburetor needs a trigger for the auto choke.

Toss a coin: spark, or fuel/valves?


Jim, IIRC that extra starter wire allows full voltage to the coil during starter operation.

I'll try a few different methods (accelerator pump/no accelerator pump) to see what works. I'll also pull and clean/replace the plugs. Your comments about the throttle blade are above my paygrade but I'll do a little research to try to understand what you're saying. Thanks for the advice.

 

[MOC]

Say a short prayer, rub her dash...tell her she’s a good Land Cruiser....

Then....

Three pumps, foot off the gas.
Full choke....ignition.....fire....push in choke slowly ‘till idle is rough then out a tad to smooth her out.

Once you see the temperature start to come up, then you could probably push the choke fully in.

Three pumps seems like a lot. The owner's manual says to pump the gas twice in temperatures below 30 degrees, choke then start with foot off the gas. Pump the gas only once if above 30 degrees.
Your advice about rubbing her hood and telling her she's a good Landcruiser is great advice and within my limited skillset. Thanks.

 

[fjc-man]

Wow, first of all I don’t know what kind of carburetor that is but it’s definitely not the original one. First off, you see that large hex nut looking thing in front of the carb? With the engine running, one at a time, put a fingertip over each of those 3 holes. If it’s sucking on your finger, that’s a vacuum leak. Not good, needs to be closed off if they haven’t been already.

 

[MOC]

Wow, first of all I don’t know what kind of carburetor that is but it’s definitely not the original one. First off, you see that large hex nut looking thing in front of the carb? With the engine running, one at a time, put a fingertip over each of those 3 holes. If it’s sucking on your finger, that’s a vacuum leak. Not good, needs to be closed off if they haven’t been already.

I'll try what you suggested. Really appreciate the help.

 

[Splangy]

I'm having a little trouble getting my 40 started in colder weather. The battery is a month old and the starter turns great. The truck is in great condition and runs great otherwise so I'm betting the problem is operator error. I put the gas pedal to the floor once, pull the choke and turn the key without pumping the gas. If I push the gas pedal to the floor while turning the key, the engine gets close to starting but then I think I flood the engine. Any ideas/advice? Thanks.

What you’re describing is a hot start procedure and not a cold start procedure. It’s pretty damn hard to flood a cold engine. Pump the s*** out of the pedal, pull on the choke and fire it up.

 

[jmylie]

Can you see the fuel level on the carb? Depending on how long it was sitting and the age of the fuel in the tank, the carb may be very low on fuel.

Try pouring some gas directly into the carb.

 

[kurtnkegger]

Are you new to this 40? Your showing joining the forum in October? I'm not busting your balls, just trying to get a feel for how well you know the quirks of your 40.

 

[MOC]

Are you new to this 40? Your showing joining the forum in October? I'm not busting your balls, just trying to get a feel for how well you know the quirks of your 40.

I'll be the first to admit I'm new to this 40. I've had a few cars but never a 45 year old carbureted car so I'm trying to learn the quirks. I'm also not mechanically-inclined and have spent my career in a library and office and not with a wrench in my hand. I bought this car hoping to develop skills I know I don't have but want to develop. I've spent a few hours understanding how a carburetor works and read the owner's manual so I'm working through the quirks associated with starting the car. I'm following the starting procedure in the owner's manual and still having a little trouble but getting better.

 

[MOC]

What you’re describing is a hot start procedure and not a cold start procedure. It’s pretty damn hard to flood a cold engine. Pump the s*** out of the pedal, pull on the choke and fire it up.

The owner's manual addresses starting procedure based on outside temperature which I follow exactly and the engine starts immediately. I have trouble, though, if I drive the car for 20 minutes, let it sit for 15 minutes then try to start it again.

 

[Mark Jennings]

So originally you had stated ‘cold’ starts....how cold is cold? One poster recommended pouring gas down the carburetor....no, no, no....go buy a can of either at your local AutoZone....and spray into the air cleaner air horn....saturate the air filter a bit.

Also oil plays a big part, if you’re running straight 30 or 20w50, your starter speeds will be to slow on 40 degree days, any colder probably won’t start. You need the air velocity through the carb to get a good air/fuel mix to the cylinders and the air velocity is based on starter speed. 15w40 is a good starting point in areas ranging from 20 degrees to 100. 10w30 only If you routinely drive in sub freezing temps. A gear drive starter may also be of benefit.

I use to keep a 100 watt light bulb under the hood when the Land Cruiser had soccer mom duties...and temps dropped below freezing. Mom could get it started without flooding, or running the battery down....trying to get the beast started.
I’d lay it on the manifold up near the carburetor float bowl. Also have used clip on reflector lamps with infrared bulbs pointed at the oil pan. The 100 watt bulb trick, get and old fashioned drop light with a wire cage...less chance of breaking the bulb....safety first (lol).

Last but not least...battery connections at battery and starter....clean, clean, clean....and spray with preservative...another AutoZone cheapie...but handy.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Not starting after the engine is at operating temp and sitting is a heat soak condition. Ethanol laced gas is a big cause of that...has a lower boiling point (higher vapor pressure). Mid 70’s had a fan to cool it down...lots of Mud articles on that subject. However, this isn’t usually an issue in cold weather....but you never know. And winter fuel blends are of a higher volatility...for better cold starts.

Do you have an electric or mechanical fuel pump? If electric, just wait a few seconds with the ignition on before starting...if mechanical (OEM)...it’ll crank for a bit.....to refill the float bowl.

Basically...heat soak isn’t a flooding issue but one of no fuel...unless the the float bowl vents to the carb...then gas can boil over into the carburetor and flood it out. Generally, 10% ethanol fuel needs to operate at higher pressures to keep it from boiling off. Your carburetor is an atmospheric device.

I’m sure after you live with a 40 for a few decades....you’ll figure out its quirks...say a prayer, run it’s dash....tell it it’s a good Cruiser....and drive it off into the sunset

....Merry Christmas

 

[Splangy]

The owner's manual addresses starting procedure based on outside temperature which I follow exactly and the engine starts immediately. I have trouble, though, if I drive the car for 20 minutes, let it sit for 15 minutes then try to start it again.

that’s a different story then. If your carb is heat soaked then you should put the pedal to the floor without pumping and turn over. Just because you follow this procedure doesn’t mean it’s going to start right up, however. It could still take several seconds to start.

 

[kerplunk]

Carburetor doesn't look stock.

To better understand how and why some of these things work.... Take the air cleaner off and have someone sit inside the truck and push down on the gas pedal, and look what happens inside the carb (with the engine off). You should see a small amount of gas squirted into the barrel of the carburetor by the accelerator pump, and you should be able to find where the throttle linkage hooks into the plunger that pumps that fuel into the barrel.

This squirt of fuel is adding gas to help it start. Too much can prevent it from properly vaporizing, I guess, somehow (never really understood that part myself, just know through experience it can happen).

Have them pull on the choke cable. You should see a plate inside the throat of the carburetor close, restricting the flow of air through the carburetor. This forces the air to speed up and be more turbulent as it goes though the barrel of the carburetor, and thus evaporator more fuel into the air. Because you don't have a stock carburetor, check if there is a choke on it, and that it's closing when the cable is pulled. (I don't have a stock carb, and don't have the choke cable connected, and it just doesn't start under 35, ever, but without the top, it's too cold for me too).

I don't see the coil in any of your pictures. I do see the starter, with a black/yellow wire going to the starter and a brown one hanging loose near it....

Do a search for "ignition coil ballast resistor" on google.... Apparently, with points, to make them last longer, they limited the voltage going through them? (I upgraded to electronic ignition pretty immediately after buying my FJ40 and have little interest in this issue personally). To help starting, there would be an additional wire from the starter (really, from the ignition switch to the starter and then to the coil) to provide full 12v to the coil (i.e. bypassing the resistor, more voltage to the coil, more spark).