Builds Diff Kraken's Got Beef: Project Luna - 2008 URJ200 (1 Viewer)

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SPC sells an upgraded cam bolt with a sleeve designed to prevent this. If I had to replace mine, those would be the replacement.

Cruiser Outfitters uses and stocks them, which speaks highly of the product in my book.


"This is an OE replacement cam with a corrosion resistant coating superior to the OE bolt. This kit will not give you much over what the OE bolt will get, but will not freeze into the bushing like the OE bolt."
 
SPC sells an upgraded cam bolt with a sleeve designed to prevent this. If I had to replace mine, those would be the replacement.

Cruiser Outfitters uses and stocks them, which speaks highly of the product in my book.


"This is an OE replacement cam with a corrosion resistant coating superior to the OE bolt. This kit will not give you much over what the OE bolt will get, but will not freeze into the bushing like the OE bolt."
I thought someone may bring this up. But I’m with @04UZJ100 . If Toyota wants these bolts seized every ten years, so be it! ;)

Edit: Someone had mentioned the SPC Cam Bolts in a comment above, but it looks like they deleted the comment for some reason. I was being sarcastic above- yes, OEM is almost always a good idea- but the SPC Cam Bolts look like a smart upgrade and will prevent this issue in the future. (Edit: hearing mixed feedback on the SPC Cam Bolts so I ended up sticking with OEM)

 
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275/70r18 K02 E-rated tires are on, still with the stock height springs- until I get new LCAs, along with installing the Old Man Emu lift. They look and handle great. No noticeable rubbing.

The truck drives smooth and handles potholes well at 38psi. I always love me some K02 tires.

These are my first E-rated set, I ran C-rated on my GX470 and 5th Gen 4Runner. These run a little more firm, but they're still plenty smooth and quiet on the highway back from the tire shop. Very happy I chose them again. I've done well in various on road and off road conditions with K02s in the past. They are my "do all, be all tire." I'll certainly let it be known if I ever do experience poor performance with them- mud, standing water, ice can all cause issues for some folks running K02s, so it is possible- but hasn't happened to me yet running them in all of those scenarios on 2 other Yotas.


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275/70r18 K02 E-rated tires are on, still with the stock height springs- until I get new LCAs, along with installing the Old Man Emu lift. They look and handle great. No noticeable rubbing.

The truck drives smooth and handles potholes well at 38psi. I always love me some K02 tires.

These are my first E-rated set, I ran C-rated on my GX470 and 5th Gen 4Runner. These run a little more firm, but they're still plenty smooth and quiet on the highway back from the tire shop. Very happy I chose them again. I've done well in various on road and off road conditions with K02s in the past. They are my "do all, be all tire." I'll certainly let it be known if I ever do experience poor performance with them- mud, standing water, ice can all cause issues for some folks running K02s, so it is possible- but hasn't happened to me yet running them in all of those scenarios on 2 other Yotas.


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Same size I have been running on mine for a year and a half now. I too love the KO2 and have run them on many different vehicles but there are some here who outright hate them. Short of running in snow and ice often I can't fault them.
 
Fender height measurements before lift for future comparison post lift:


LF: ~34" (Ground to fender), ~17.5" (Hub to fender)


RF: ~33" (Ground to fender), ~16.5" (Hub to fender)


LR: ~34.5" (Ground to fender), ~17.5" (Hub to fender)


RR: ~35.25" (Ground to fender), ~18.25" (Hub to fender)
 
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Some excitement via MUDship from a very kind MUD member. This third row center headrest was the only OEM part my truck was missing. Couldn't be happier to have this in hand. Toyota wants $500 for one of these!

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Below are the latest service records from the Toyota VIN lookup. Regular oil changes, but no major repairs seem to have been done at a dealer. In addition to the recent dealer items below, the PO said he had the radiator and starter done in the last year or two at an indy shop but couldn't find the receipt. The radiator looks new. Starter- who knows- I guess I might find out some day.
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It looks like I should check the spark plugs and see if they are new. That will give me an idea of how well serviced this was at the indy shop the PO used. At the very least, I should do transmission, transfer case, differential fluids and an oil change.
 
Let the fun begin...

New LCAs ordered and, apparently, 10 additional Toyota parts for the related bolts. I will use anti seize on this hardware when it goes into the new LCAs.


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Cutting out the old cam bolts should be interesting. I know where to cut, question is what to cut them with for quickest and easiest removal?

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Let the fun begin...

New LCAs ordered and, apparently, 10 additional Toyota parts for the related bolts! I will use anti seize on this hardware when it goes into the new LCAs. I think the SPC cam bolts are a good way to go too, and time will tell if this was a smart or dumb route to go staying OEM.

Edit: I am questioning the clarity of the diagram on item 16 (Adjust Bolt Bolt - Toyota Part No. 90119-18006), do I need to order this bolt or not?

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Cutting out the old cam bolts should be interesting. I know where to cut, question is what to cut them with for quickest and easiest removal?

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Do not use SPC cam bolts. They’re cheaply machined and do not provide the necessary clamping force to keep the LCAs from moving around. Further, they’re machined with grease channels in them which appear “functional” but end up compromising the strength of the bolted connect.

OEM and antiseize is the only way I’d go.
 
Do not use SPC cam bolts. They’re cheaply machined and do not provide the necessary clamping force to keep the LCAs from moving around. Further, they’re machined with grease channels in them which appear “functional” but end up compromising the strength of the bolted connect.

OEM and antiseize is the only way I’d go.
 
If you use anti-seize on the bolts they should be fine and shouldn’t rust in the future, or so my very trusted Toyota 4x4 shop tells me.
 
If you SAS you'll never have to worry about cam bolts seizing on you :smokin:
 
I replaced the PCV valve today (Toyota Part No. 12204-38010) hoping to improve Luna's gas mileage that has been at about 10mpg in city traffic.

A new PCV valve costs around $6 and takes about 15 minutes to do a careful job of it. The only tool needed is a 22mm socket with an extension.


The old one was shot and air blows straight through in or out. It was also very dirty. I learned that the ARB bull bar makes an excellent step for working in the engine bay hunched over like an ape. Win-win.

Here is the location of the PCV valve. You must remove the plastic engine cover to access:

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After removing the plastic engine cover, remove this small hose by pulling gently and/or depressing the attached hose clamps if needed. It should pop right off:

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Next, use the 22mm socket with an extension to gently remove the old PCV valve. Mine came out easily and was pretty dirty:

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Next install the new PCV valve using the 22mm socket:

- The threads are plastic so tighten by hand with the extension until it resists but don't tighten it very much
- You can easily slip the hose back on without messing with the hose clamps

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Here are the three parts involved (old PCV valve, new PCV valve, and hose):


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Mr. Kraken,
Congratulations on joining the 200 Club. Looks like a great get, especially with the ARB bumpers. Man, you are diving in big time and making quick work of it. Hats off to you!
DN
P.S. afgman786, don't go putting any wild ideas in his head. Yet. Give him some time to obsess over which rock sliders would provide the optimal protection-per unit weight-per dollar ratio, then agonize over which skid plate design is the one true path to nirvana, and then finally, what floor mats to get. THEN introduce something like SAS to unsettle him and get him going again!
 
@TRDdrew and others... is it plausible to get a dent like this out of an ARB bumper? It is a wheeling rig after all, but the dent is a bit obnoxious. The PO said it was some sort of hitch impact from another vehicle on the cattle ranch this truck lived on:

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@Diff Kraken is it possible? Yes. The metal is pretty strong right there and if i remember correctly there might be a brace behind the bumper right in that area. If so to repair it fully will be pretty difficult without cutting out the damaged metal and welding in a patch.

but if it is going to continue life as a wheeling rig why bother fixing it, the bumper will probably get dinged up again
 
It’s too bad you’re in DC where front plates are required, otherwise I’d suggest removing it and finding a wider European-style plate that says Land Cruiser or something similar to just cover it. You still might look for something like that I suppose but it would sit under the license plate.
 

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