Builds Diff Kraken's Got Beef: Project Luna - 2008 URJ200 (2 Viewers)

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Diff Kraken

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New Truck Day: :)

I finally snagged a 200 series! In good condition at a great price. It took me 6 months of looking in spurts. I'm coming into this from an unfortunate situation with my 5th gen 4Runner that led me to learn all about the superior engineering and build quality of the 200 series:

Search for truth- Front Diff and Oil Pan Exposure Question - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/search-for-truth-front-diff-and-oil-pan-exposure-question.1273959/

I found this 2008 Land Cruiser for sale 3 miles from my place after a nationwide search for a 200, go figure! I was looking for a cheap, rust free, mechanically sound, flawless interior, 200 to wheel at local East Coast TLCA events and to take on road trips with family and friends. This truck was exactly that. Flawless victory.

She was bought new and registered to a prominent Oklahoma cattle company for her first 10 years, and then spent the last 4 years with an Oklahoma City businessman who drove it back and forth to Virginia. It currently has 175k miles on it and was maintained at Toyota dealers for most of its life. It has full vehicle history by Toyota VIN lookup and is all up to date with new radiator and starter.

Uniquely, she has front and rear ARB bumpers from the cattle ranch, but with stock height springs. Although it does have Old Man Emu shocks on it- the lowest part of the front skid plate sits at 8" so it is ready to get updated suspension ASAP. I'm not sure how long the bumpers have been on the truck, but they are faded, the rubber "buffers" on the front bumper are dried out, and the foglight housing is cracked.

I bought the truck last week during a full moon, the truck is Super White- and is about as big as the moon- so I'm calling this big girl "Lunar 1" aka "Luna".


Below is the initial to do list that will be the main focus of this build thread. These items will likely be accompanied by any trials and tribulations associated with said build. This is technically my third Toyota truck build in the last 4 years. G-d help me! Send a priest! This addiction is real.

To do list:
- Replace missing ARB bumper decals (ARB is sending them now)
- Replace missing center headrest for third row (not in the seat storage pouch)
- Replace worn shift knob (Ordered and en route from UAE)
- Factory floor mats (ordered and en route from Florida Toyota dealer)
- 2" Old Man Emu lift (Ordered and en route from Cruiser Outfitters) @cruiseroutfit
- 34” tires (or 33" tires?- Can't make up my mind!)
- Remove aftermarket window tint
- Skids
- Sliders
- Harrop Eaton ELocker
- Winch


Here is Luna as she sits now:

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PS- If you were also looking at this truck when it was listed for sale online and have any extra info, feel free to leave a comment here or PM me. Any additional info is always appreciated.


:cheers:

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You're probably cluing in on this but there is a big difference in ease of fitment between 33s and 34s. 33s present no significant issues with clearance or KDSS arm, 34s mean you need to dial in offset, KDSS relocation (necessitating putting the links outboard ala @linuxgod ), and probably gears if you want to keep the engine/transmission stock-like on the freeway. All for an extra 0.5" under the diffs/skids.

Then again a half inch may have made your previous differential adventure a whole different situation. And yet again, you may not have ended up with a 200.. sooooo....

Congrats! I'll be watching what you do with this thing.
 
Sounds like a plan.

My 2cents is if you're going to install a locker, it is worth regearing to 4.3 for tires on the larger end. As burly as the 5.7 is, your build is going to be on the heavy end. Wheel torque, engine braking, and general shifting is much better when dialed in.

Also as you're targeting a heavy build, I'd encourage you to watch the weight and choose possibly lighter variants. It all adds up real quick, even before the trip gear
 
You're probably cluing in on this but there is a big difference in ease of fitment between 33s and 34s. 33s present no significant issues with clearance or KDSS arm, 34s mean you need to dial in offset, KDSS relocation (necessitating putting the links outboard ala @linuxgod ), and probably gears if you want to keep the engine/transmission stock-like on the freeway. All for an extra 0.5" under the diffs/skids.

Then again a half inch may have made your previous differential adventure a whole different situation. And yet again, you may not have ended up with a 200.. sooooo....

Congrats! I'll be watching what you do with this thing.

I have to say that I disagree on this one, but there is a huge jump to go to 35s (34s vs 35s on the 200). I ran 285/70/18 aka 34"x11.50" Ridge Grapplers on a completely bone stock 2016 with no mods, no alignment, no spacers other than simply removing mud flaps, and then I ran it the same way for a year after adding a lift and a build. I eventually added Bora 0.75" spacers to the stock wheels to get rid of the tiniest little bit of rub at full lock which usually only occurred in reverse on hilly terrain. I also ran 285/75/17 also 34"x11.50" Ridge Grapplers on a completely stock 2013, but that time I added Icon Vector wheels which were the perfect offset for zero issues. That's the setup I currently run, albeit with a lift and a build that doesn't affect KDSS rubbing one way or another, and I have ever experienced rubbing in any scenario on the 13. I also ran this size on a 2014 LC and 275/65/20 on an LX570 (no KDSS however) and have never had any issues on 4 200s running 34s and have not run a KDSS relocation on any except the 2014. I tried 35s on the 2014 and thought the KDSS relocation would help, but there were too many other compromises with 35s so they were removed for 34s and the KDSS relocation came off at that time as well. Also as a side note, I never regeared any of the 200s even when fully built and have not felt the need to even at high elevations and plenty of wheeling.

2016, completely stock with 34s:

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2016, lifted and aligned, stock wheels and stock offset with 34s:

AM-JKLXGdZmzCWA-DDeS05izbHFE9iDTVb8nBNGGvVOsrgiMGAVj7zpn-A5uhoJSsDEjoyuNGlaQ88S0EUjdE6Ncup6bbu9JPuP6VVf07RIHr-MsIkKg2wrUOYkIB9tvgPRJjgCv7EPIEs3OyAZXoMb2Gb4_6g=w3248-h2436-no


2013, completely stock with 34s on Icon Vectors:

AM-JKLVo8mQlLCGUgf0_eMv2cn2vuI-lpDxJ7QedFF7K7wiUKk6E3m7uppY4e7TsgTxaz97Kh5Srsh8mz1DlKuwda2bfwI2SoZDFAo1zjLtx6ZSvjNxNXbT762U42dcvsZP_v9stvhnPm1xAYrYWmKQK9DO-zA=w3126-h2155-no


2013, lifted and aligned with 34s on Icon Vectors:

AM-JKLUh97Q0avpD8MCGLs7jIkc-QO4MetKS60k4hr2qyDJ1fo1SnBFtOGvPZwQVUwg7cfQFTbFljIvklNimOGGUeSEhSn-0pVQTkQzu0R68y651yhH41YK8RliUAK0f3a85gjOWWvYlEYiSCnUKv-YA_5hsIg=w2990-h2436-no


2014, lifted and aligned with 34s on Rock Warriors:

AM-JKLUtKpxC7fse7cS-9ZiY7y_svJclF5w3xAcfmuZvmweRBYbMX0cJkbcMvhsxSDQdAG4xScIfVxbbRznFp_R-gNwXDZcwQTdh7fBsoE3sYdI_UEO6puU31L27XmLVLNa55O4lRW3EPr8AvD4WaCi4skmQfA=w3248-h2436-no
 
Thanks for all the input, I'm currently considering these 3 tire options, all are E-rated & 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake Rated:

1) 275/70R18, BFG K02, 33.2", 59 lbs
I've had K02s on 2 other trucks and loved them.

2) 275/70R18, Falken Wildpeak A/T3W, 33.4", 59 lbs
I like that it's a Japanese tire on a Japanese truck.

3) 285/70R18, NITTO EXO GRAPPLER AWT, 33.98', 62 lbs
I like that they are the only A/T available in this size and are Japanese.


I am aware of the Toyo A/T III as being another great option as well, but it seems they could be noisy- people are having mixed results on noise from them. I'm also aware that there are many other 33" tire options to consider, but these are what I've narrowed it down to. I'll likely commit to one of these 3 within the week.
 
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Perhaps @bloc and @mcgaskins are talking past each other.

The idea of tire class size to measured spec size.

Most reference class size in the sense that "34s" reference tires that have measurement specs between 33" and 34". And 35s as 34" to 35" measure spec size

Even this is fuzzy depending on the circles people hang around in.

@Diff Kraken , any of those '34s' should drop in pretty easy.

I would encourage larger tires with less suspension lift to achieve overall clearance goals.
 
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I rubbed all over the place on Nitto 34s without a lift, trimming, or other mods.

Tires matter, as a 34 seems to vary between manufacturers. Alignment matters as a bit more or les caster will impact kdss rub. Wheel offset matters, as with lower offsets you’re less likely to rub the control arm or kdss but more likely to need plastic liner trimming

To @bloc’s point, 33s should fit without issue. 34s may require effort (or they may be fine as in your case). I’m glad I did 34s but if someone wants easy they may be disappointed. And now that I have a swingout and gears I’m on that slippery slope and thinking about 35s..
 
I was speaking in general terms and can’t account for everyone’s experience. I did focus on lots of reports on this board of KDSS rub with tires approaching 34s, and linuxgod’s was a well documented example of what many seem to have.

I also had a private conversation with a highly respected mechanic here that has installed many, many lifts and his advice was that to truly avoid interference 34s are just too big. Beyond rubbing the KDSS bar under heavy articulation eventually you’ll start rubbing and tear the boot on the front cylinder itself. He did say 275/70R18 on a 25mm offset wheel is a great setup though.

I completely agree with Teckis’ point about planning to try and keep things as light as possible. And gears.. I dislike how often my truck unlocks the torque converter or downshifts on relatively mild hills in central Texas.. and I’m near sea level and pretty light on 33s. It didn't do that with stock tires and less lift. My eventual move to 4.3s will be to address that.
 
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This will serve as my in progress "To Do List" with live updates. I'll update this list as I take care of items, and add additional items as they come up:

 
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I'll also add that I took the family out to dinner tonight in the 200 and we drove the same roads that we usually drive on with our 2021 4Runner. We've always commented on what a chore it is to drive the 4Runner on these windy bumpy roads because it rides rough and it's hard to keep up with other cars because of the gearing and engine combo. Tonight my wife commented about how smooth and fast the Cruiser was and how much more enjoyable the ride was compared to the 4Runner. That's a huge win in my book. That's in addition to all of the other benefits the 200 offers as an off road rig and family hauler. I still love the 4Runner, but this made me love the 200 a bit more for all the right reasons.
 
Some glamour shots at a historic mansion down the street- why not… showing off that sweet, sweet fluid film shine on the bumpers. Truck is looking way better already. Need to pull off those side steps.

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Question for folks:

This truck has a Pilkington windshield. How can I tell if they did a good job installing it? Is there something visual to look for?

PO said it didn't leak or whistle and he didn't even realize it was not original until I pointed it out.
 
You fluid filmed the exterior of the bumpers? Why? They’ll just attract road grime and dirt.
 
You fluid filmed the exterior of the bumpers? Why? They’ll just attract road grime and dirt.
Because they are super old and faded, with some spots of rust, this steel needs some TLC. Other folks have had success using fluid film in this situation as well, so it's really not that crazy to try this, and if it does attract road grime and dirt.... I'll wipe it off and try something else.

You might find it interesting to note that Fluid FIlm advertises itself as being good for oxidized paintwork and application on bumpers. This is from their website: Home Applications - Fluid Film - https://www.fluid-film.com/home-applications

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If for some reason the fluid film proves to be a problem, it's not difficult to remove: Spraying - Fluid Film - https://www.fluid-film.com/spraying-fluid-film/

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Finally, if the manufacturer is to be believed, you may wish to check out their FAQ. Yes, I know you have experience using the stuff, and feel free to let me know if you don't agree with the manufacturer, but it's worth noting their official stance on this: FAQ - Fluid Film - https://www.fluid-film.com/frequently-asked-questions/

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Sounds like I can wipe the bumpers off with a cloth if/when needed.
 
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I've only had minimal exposure to fluid film (on a camper trailer frame that we bought used), and it is nasty stuff to be on any place you will touch or brush against. Messy, messy stuff.
 
I've only had minimal exposure to fluid film (on a camper trailer frame that we bought used), and it is nasty stuff to be on any place you will touch or brush against. Messy, messy stuff.
There's not any really noticeable residue. I put some on a cloth and the metal seemed to soak it up pretty well.
 
I'll be curious to see how it works out. I use it under my truck and it's still there to make a mess 9 months later when I touch the undercarriage. Great against rust, though.

FYI I ended up painting my armor with POR15, which helped control some rust that was forming. There's a "chassis black" topcoat you paint on which will give you a (mostly) even matte black. Cost me about $100 to do my front bumper, sliders, and rear bumper. I painted it on with a paintbrush though if you had a sprayer for the top coat that would be ideal. So far its holding up well and at least from ~20' away it looks nice.
 
I'll be curious to see how it works out. I use it under my truck and it's still there to make a mess 9 months later when I touch the undercarriage. Great against rust, though.

FYI I ended up painting my armor with POR15, which helped control some rust that was forming. There's a "chassis black" topcoat you paint on which will give you a (mostly) even matte black. Cost me about $100 to do my front bumper, sliders, and rear bumper. I painted it on with a paintbrush though if you had a sprayer for the top coat that would be ideal. So far its holding up well and at least from ~20' away it looks nice.
Thanks for the idea. I've heard good things about POR15, but I've got so much FF sitting around that I was interested to try it out and see how it does in this application. So there was no cost to me and so far it seems like it should do what I was hoping. If it ends up being messy, I was cognizant of the possibility when I did this, I'll just try something else. No biggie, but I find the fear of Fluid FIlm to be pretty funny. Cosmoline, on the other hand, strikes fear into my heart.

And, in case anyone reading this knows about windshields on these trucks... Bump from my post above, before the FF debate:

Windshield question for folks:

This truck has a Pilkington windshield. PO said it didn't leak or whistle and he didn't even realize it was not original until I pointed it out.
How can I tell if they did a good job installing it? Is there something visual to look for?
 
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