It'll be my fault if it doesn't work.
I will be measuring bore and booster dimensions once I get them to confirm they work.
Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter montyorpenn
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It'll be my fault if it doesn't work.
I will be measuring bore and booster dimensions once I get them to confirm they work.
I wasn't baiting an admission, more denouncing any personal, known methodology to the choices.
If someone asks "why", I set the stage for an "I dunno" reply, not that I suspect any are taking notes, considering I've a history of marginal success.
Hahahaha.
tucker74
Moderator
The Ironman shocks I bought for my rears had a metal "sleeve" insert in the shock eye bushings. They were for FJ40 rears, had to order FJ60 fronts for the studs on top
Tucker
just run adapters to make the stud setup a standard eye setup. easier to find shocks for and eliminates the shock poking through the fender.
missed a bunch of this and will catch up someday, but as for the 80 booster, hope you have better luck than i...the one i have won't fit next to the clutch master
missed a bunch of this and will catch up someday, but as for the 80 booster, hope you have better luck than i...the one i have won't fit next to the clutch master
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I tried to start a brake MC FAQ in the 40/55 section, but not much in the way of useful/detail response...
Did the mounting base of the clutch master impede?
Here's what I've surmised, once again, taking a damn long short cut to get to this assumption.
The 55 firewall specifications are, damn near, the distance between booster and master appears to be identical.
Best I can tell, the FJ7Xs use the same booster as the FJ80 (disc/drum. 9" base) which does appear smaller than the and FZJ80.
In theory, the 7X should work, especially in my case, since 7X manifolds and carb.
Forgot what ACC ran, but it fit.
Going to check.
Robbie brought up the the (4) rear cylinders, versus (2) on the FJ80, but the Pig is 7/8" and FJ80 is 1", so hopefully will compensate.
Have been discussing a potential new market for a particular vendor, for some time, intending on being the guinea pig.
Should be a direct fit and built to specific length, not off the shelf, for not much more money. The stud is a standard end for most all the late Toyota's, and can be shortened to enough room for bushings, retainers, with the wrench end to tighten, and not contact fender.
My concerns, since ends aren't.
The OE shock specs are:
**Front**
Compressed 13.31" (338mm)
Extended 22.36" (568mm)
Travel 9.05" (230mm)
Dampening at 1ft/sec (.3 m/sec)
Comp: 79lbs (36kg)
Rebound: 242lbs (110kg)
**Rear**
Compressed 13.31" (338mm)
Extended 22.36" (568mm)
Travel 9.05" (230mm)
Dampening at 1ft/sec (.3 m/sec)
Comp: 79lbs (36kg)
Rebound: 242lbs (110kg)
When measured with axle drooped on jack stands (no pressure on a single side), with the 2" lift Alcans, the extended length is 21 1/4".
So, even lifted, the OE shocks are sufficient travel....which is odd.
on the booster, mine was an fzj booster and the body of the booster hits up against the body of the clutch master.
as for cutting the shocks down, you cut off the tip, which is where you put a wrench to remove the shock. i always thought stud shocks were the stupidest thing in the world after trying to remove multiple ones and having them just spin ideally, you won't have to remove them until they're dead and then you can just cut them off, but if you do have to remove them before then, you may have issues.
as for cutting the shocks down, you cut off the tip, which is where you put a wrench to remove the shock. i always thought stud shocks were the stupidest thing in the world after trying to remove multiple ones and having them just spin
ideally, you won't have to remove them until they're dead and then you can just cut them off, but if you do have to remove them before then, you may have issues.I'm thinking the FZJ80 booster is a big one, but have never measured and I'd have assumed it'd fit as well as the stock.
Pretty much. Don't know if the FJ is any different than FZJ, but we're gonna find out soon.
Agree on stud shocks, completely.
I should've considered a more elegant approach to converting, before I was at this point.
I don't know if the OE data supplied for valving is going to be sufficient, so may take a time or two to dial in the best ride.
Pretty much. Don't know if the FJ is any different than FZJ, but we're gonna find out soon.
Agree on stud shocks, completely.
I should've considered a more elegant approach to converting, before I was at this point.
I don't know if the OE data supplied for valving is going to be sufficient, so may take a time or two to dial in the best ride.
it is wider than the stock. the stock stuck out more. i have a 60 series in there now, fits fine.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Oh yeah...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Brain is slow this AM...
In the bottom I see passenger side engine mount. Above that w/ what looks like built in tensioner is what? Above that w/ 2 horizontal bolt holes is another mount - power steering? Alternator?
Thanks for being kind - slow children at play...
Not sure how to address, best, but thinking it'd probably be better to fab a new lower bracket, altogether, rather than space at the bottom.
Takers?
The distance the 2F is taller than the three. Compressor mount has to attach at the lower locations on the power steering pump bracket.
Can see how the lower legs attach to the motor mount here.
How far they're off and the real challenge if spacing.
Think I'd lose a fair entry if a solid block could be machined to bolt through the bottom of the motor mount, beveled for the differences in the surfaces, with threaded points to bolt the bracket to?
Other idears?
I'd like to stretch it to fit, but didn't think that's gonna work.
Takers?
The distance the 2F is taller than the three. Compressor mount has to attach at the lower locations on the power steering pump bracket.
Can see how the lower legs attach to the motor mount here.
How far they're off and the real challenge if spacing.
Think I'd lose a fair entry if a solid block could be machined to bolt through the bottom of the motor mount, beveled for the differences in the surfaces, with threaded points to bolt the bracket to?
Other idears?
I'd like to stretch it to fit, but didn't think that's gonna work.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Think I'd lose a fair entry if a solid block could be machined to bolt through the bottom of the motor mount, beveled for the differences in the surfaces, with threaded points to bolt the bracket to?
fair entry to what? I think you tossed that out 3 iterations ago...I think the spacer from some nice alloy cut in betwixt the top of mount and base of bracket is a capitol idear...plus, it gets the compressor up a bit higher for firewall clarance an dirt escapement...besides, a whole new ac brac would definately void your fair entrance, and cost a bunch more...
fair entry to what? I think you tossed that out 3 iterations ago...I think the spacer from some nice alloy cut in betwixt the top of mount and base of bracket is a capitol idear...plus, it gets the compressor up a bit higher for firewall clarance an dirt escapement...besides, a whole new ac brac would definately void your fair entrance, and cost a bunch more...
Can you take better photos of how the lower legs bolt to the mount with something like a tape measure in the background?
The fair???
Thinking spacer makes more sense than throwing it all out swapping for a 1FZ-FE.
Yes. Will try to dig out the detailed measurements taken....that were obviously for nought...
Not where the spacer is needed, but that's around 2", which is the difference in overall block height of a 2F and 3FE.
Will get better measures tomorrow.
Thinking any issues at that thickness?
