Chris,
If it was me, I'd take off all the screws and bolts, weld in good plates, big enough to give the hinge good metal to bolt to. I'm not sure what the three flatheads are for.
Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ??? (10 Viewers)
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Chris,
If it was me, I'd take off all the screws and bolts, weld in good plates, big enough to give the hinge good metal to bolt to. I'm not sure what the three flatheads are for.
Ron,
Not an OE headliner....
Wanted to do, ala scrapdaddy, for durability, but also head room, but a lot to ponder on both.
There has got to be a better means to support the outer roof skin, period. The huge crater in mine easily popped out, but the cross supports are now bent, nor enough of them.
If I can find a better way to support the roof, then I'm half inclined to line the bottom of the outer skin with primer, deadener, and ceramic, and whatever else, then attaching a light gauge sheet metal to the bottom to deaden/paint.
Cuts into the ~1" (woohoo) of headroom I gained, but would appreciate an interior that'll be very durable and a roof skin substructure that works.
Not sure how to achieve the latter, yet.
Not worried with pulling the inner door panels off, yet, as my main goal is to get her to a point that I can drive it back to storage tomorrow, pull the hood, outer fenders, tailgate, and doors, leaving only the shell and inner fenders on the chassis, all in an effort to pull body and start mechanical at Robbie's, leaving the rest for me to work on until mechanical and the bottom of the shell is done.
(I know, I talk to damn much. Lot of words to say...)
I'm assuming the flatheads attach to the heavy angle iron the PO must've cut threads into for the flat heads.
The entire lower hinge is supported on a bolted, not welded, door "patch".
If I'm understanding you correctly, you're suggesting removing they're handiwork, then welding a plate in its place, similar to your other plates, keeping this door?
Makes sense, I guess. Less work than trying to get an earlier door to fit.
Thinking about the roof.
Mine is now permanently oil canned due to a previous, confirmed impact of some sort. I'd prefer to not replace, all things considered, but will if necessary.
Regardless if it replaces, or not, thinking there's a better way to support the roof panel and increase headroom, but seeing what y'all think.
Add 3 additional cross supports, thinking a heavier rolled hat channel, then seam sealing directly to the bottom of the roof panel, removing the support that runs the length, completely.
Now, I realize why they're meant to move, but they did attach the hood support in a similar fashion, it's more visible than the roof.
If I have to replace or even remove the roof skin, half inclined to find a shop that could roll ribs into it. Know it's possible on smaller flats, but unsure how it could be done on larger, curved metal, but where there's a will there's a way.
Even thought of putting the external ribs, like what is on most with luggage racks, simply as structural component, but thinking that would look hideous.
Part of my thought process is also providing support for a "xx" ga sheet metal headliner, one that could be scrapdaddied, as a finished product. If rust can be abated, I see no reason that access would ever again be necessary, even if that meant surface mounting interior domes. Could always pull wire back through, if an event dictated.
By triple coating the bottom of the roof skin, again, in scrapdaddy fashion, possibly even blanket insulation glued to the underside of the coated roof skin, then a sheet metal headliner triple coated, I "think" that'd minimize the tin can affect plus it'd be durable.
So, why would it be a bad idea to raise the roof supports to the bottom of the skin and attach with a seam sealer?
Why is a sheet metal headliner a bad idea?
Thought about weight, and why the gauge is listed as "xx", so for consideration:
22GA 1.25 lbs psf
24GA 1.00 lbs psf
26GA .75 lbs psf
Figuring coating to add .50 lbs per square foot, for one "layer", calculated from Ron's coverage and product.
Rough calculations put the total at 36sf.
So, while adding a minimum of 72lbs to the highest point on the Pig, impacting the COG negatively, going to be a big issue?
Mine is now permanently oil canned due to a previous, confirmed impact of some sort. I'd prefer to not replace, all things considered, but will if necessary.
Regardless if it replaces, or not, thinking there's a better way to support the roof panel and increase headroom, but seeing what y'all think.
Add 3 additional cross supports, thinking a heavier rolled hat channel, then seam sealing directly to the bottom of the roof panel, removing the support that runs the length, completely.
Now, I realize why they're meant to move, but they did attach the hood support in a similar fashion, it's more visible than the roof.
If I have to replace or even remove the roof skin, half inclined to find a shop that could roll ribs into it. Know it's possible on smaller flats, but unsure how it could be done on larger, curved metal, but where there's a will there's a way.
Even thought of putting the external ribs, like what is on most with luggage racks, simply as structural component, but thinking that would look hideous.
Part of my thought process is also providing support for a "xx" ga sheet metal headliner, one that could be scrapdaddied, as a finished product. If rust can be abated, I see no reason that access would ever again be necessary, even if that meant surface mounting interior domes. Could always pull wire back through, if an event dictated.
By triple coating the bottom of the roof skin, again, in scrapdaddy fashion, possibly even blanket insulation glued to the underside of the coated roof skin, then a sheet metal headliner triple coated, I "think" that'd minimize the tin can affect plus it'd be durable.
So, why would it be a bad idea to raise the roof supports to the bottom of the skin and attach with a seam sealer?
Why is a sheet metal headliner a bad idea?
Thought about weight, and why the gauge is listed as "xx", so for consideration:
22GA 1.25 lbs psf
24GA 1.00 lbs psf
26GA .75 lbs psf
Figuring coating to add .50 lbs per square foot, for one "layer", calculated from Ron's coverage and product.
Rough calculations put the total at 36sf.
So, while adding a minimum of 72lbs to the highest point on the Pig, impacting the COG negatively, going to be a big issue?
The Po on mine used emt tubing and contoured to the roof and it makes makes a good structure to self tap screw something to. He had fiber board there before but I am putting abs sheeting to match me door cards.
How about something like this. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=40938&catid=733
A PVC sheet, any thickness you want and cheap, light weight also. It could be cut to fit inside each section and attached to the tubing.
Once you have the frame work made and mounted, there's a lot of products to use as a headliner, if you wish so. Sometimes I think, it would look good without a covering.
A PVC sheet, any thickness you want and cheap, light weight also. It could be cut to fit inside each section and attached to the tubing.
Once you have the frame work made and mounted, there's a lot of products to use as a headliner, if you wish so. Sometimes I think, it would look good without a covering.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
the plastic(non-metallic) would be a better option for adhearing the headliner to. but there are so many rigs out there with 75+# of rack weight ABOVE the highest points on their rigs, I would not be worried about that- plus you're not going to be at the limits off camber or climbing a hill with this rig- your concern there is almost valid, but a non-issue in this case...if you're concerned about protection during a tragic event like a roll, then just do an inside cage.
In this event, I'm not. Concerned about an internal support structure for the roof skin, that's viable.
No one has commented on the idea of raising the bows to the underside of the skin and adhering with a seam sealer.
Personally, think welding the damn thing would be a lot better, but the seam sealer should allow for minimal movement.
Thoughts?
the rear glass motor, as well
Chris,
That is how I will do mine. The frame work will be right up against the roof with seam sealer in between, to stop any rattling, etc. The side rails will be bolted to the body, all along the same line as the holes for the headliner bows. No welding, no sweating, no rusting.
Powder coat it to match.
Opinions.
Is it complete and shear stupidity to all of the mechanical, being engine, H55, split case, axles, brakes, leafs...everything that moves it down the road, in it's current state, THEN, pull the body to deal with the underbelly and pull all the mechanical to blast and coat the frame?
Feel like I'm in a corner, due to title debacle that laid the best plans to waste, and only have a limited window to handle the mechanical aspects.
Is it complete and shear stupidity to all of the mechanical, being engine, H55, split case, axles, brakes, leafs...everything that moves it down the road, in it's current state, THEN, pull the body to deal with the underbelly and pull all the mechanical to blast and coat the frame?
Feel like I'm in a corner, due to title debacle that laid the best plans to waste, and only have a limited window to handle the mechanical aspects.
Do what you have to do. I would say paint frame and underside of body. Paint drive train and install. Paint interior and exterior. That is in a perfect word though and I will be doing something very different that will result in way more work and undoing things that I have done. There is always some reality check be it money time or quality. No matter what you plan, this will unfold the way they were supposed to... Far out right!
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
Stripped.
View attachment 850930
Two and a half hours trying to get the tailgate to work resulted in a cobbled up jumper, after frying the quads charger (my mistake), but did get the glass down, finally.
View attachment 850931
View attachment 850932
I have to agree with Pighead, wherever he may be....
It was 70 today, refreshing after the arctic blast, and the rear window down was pretty cool.
View attachment 850930
Two and a half hours trying to get the tailgate to work resulted in a cobbled up jumper, after frying the quads charger (my mistake), but did get the glass down, finally.
View attachment 850931
View attachment 850932
I have to agree with Pighead, wherever he may be....
It was 70 today, refreshing after the arctic blast, and the rear window down was pretty cool.
Probably less than the difference from a full tank to an empty one. So, no I don't think it's relevant.
Thanks.
check out what i did on my roof. #139 you shouldhave the parts to double up or even triple the roof ribs. i welded in the headliner rods on the inside of the ribs for structural integrity.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...91-ga-55-left-woods-20-yrs-10-73-model-7.html
maybe this will inspire you.
