It looks kind of like what's in my Tacoma. I would guess it's 3 type B wedge base bulbs. The A/C switch may be a type A. If you want to be sure, take it apart and compare the bulbs to the bulb in the hazard or CDL switch. They are both type B.
Definitive led thread for 80s (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter treerootCO
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
so I checked tonight what was working and what is not, here's what I came up with, if you can help identify the type of bulb I will need for each of these I would appreciate it. I think I know what I need for the type 74 but the B's and A's have different bases. Trying to identify the right bulbs on superbrightleds.com
shift console - #74
Hazard - type b white? any part #
antenna up / down - type A wht?, any part #?
heater console for blower buttons - type B green? 3 of these?
cig lighter ring - type B green?
glovebox - type 74 white
key ring - type 74 Grn
I am at this time just replacing what is not working and leaving everything else alone.......
shift console - #74
Hazard - type b white? any part #
antenna up / down - type A wht?, any part #?
heater console for blower buttons - type B green? 3 of these?
cig lighter ring - type B green?
glovebox - type 74 white
key ring - type 74 Grn
I am at this time just replacing what is not working and leaving everything else alone.......
I was planning on going with a 18 SMD LED 1157 bulb from lightingnext. I'd rather not put in resistors as I plan on adding running/ side marker lights and if necessary license plate white light ? due to the tail/brake light lighting my plate and if its red I need another white light to be legal.
You don't need resistors. O'Reilly's sells a flasher relay that's specifically for LEDs.
Finnyfam60
Driving miss daisy
Whatever, you know you're just showing off that 5 speed shifter!!!
i did this mod yesterday
I pulled the dash and the guages did all the white guages
i replaced all the leds with red leds in the dash and the climate control box
im having trouble with the lights i put it all back together and the back lighting leds are not on in the heater control and the dash lights .
the two places im going to try are the dimmer potentiometer and maybe the back of the heater control? i saw a mod to have the lights on all the time could that switch be the problem?
the lights where on in testing i made sure all the led leads were going the right direction it looked great till i put it all back together. i checked all the fuses and they all looked solid. every fuse in and out looked good.
I pulled the dash and the guages did all the white guages
i replaced all the leds with red leds in the dash and the climate control box
im having trouble with the lights i put it all back together and the back lighting leds are not on in the heater control and the dash lights .
the two places im going to try are the dimmer potentiometer and maybe the back of the heater control? i saw a mod to have the lights on all the time could that switch be the problem?
the lights where on in testing i made sure all the led leads were going the right direction it looked great till i put it all back together. i checked all the fuses and they all looked solid. every fuse in and out looked good.
anyone?
Is the dimmer potentiometer plugged in? None of those lights will come on if it's not plugged in.
anyone seen these yet???
http://www.lifetimeledlights.com/Headlights_c_16.html
Price seems alright.... low draw on the alt..... don't have to do a retrofit into depos like a HID install.
http://www.lifetimeledlights.com/Headlights_c_16.html
Price seems alright.... low draw on the alt..... don't have to do a retrofit into depos like a HID install.
YEh saw these also. Waiting to see pics and results from others. The integrated fan has me worried about durability and water infiltration
I fixed the issue in the tail light fuse. Of course I missed one fuse when I was checking the all. I ended up switching the hidden switch behind the climate control. This means no rheostat dimmer control always on when the lights are on . so now the dash is back together. I'll post pics of my red LED with white faces results. One problem that is new after I drove it is the temp gauge is stuck at zero. I really dont want to pull the dash again but it might have to happen. Other alternative is scan guage or digital guage. I have the phone app and ob2 Bluetooth adaptor. So I know the ECU's temp readings are still valid. I read that there are two sensors. A temp sender for the dash. And another temp sensor for the ecu. I was thinking of changing the dash sensor. Any ideas?
Just put some blue less in the dash. They are ok in brightness with the running lights on but go dimmer with the headlights on and are almost nonexistant with the rights on. Anyone else experience this??
wanted to up date you on my progress
i promised pictures
here are my reds in the dash behind my new white gauges. very bright and look great at night. I thought it was great for night vision to use red.
I also did red in the climate control cluster, I left allot of the LEDs that were soldered behind buttons but they seem very weak now especially during the day.
the key ring was turned to red to match, the doors got super bright white courtesy/ puddle lights. The two over head lights where done with 9 white led panels.
problems along the way....
the green D i used a green 12 v LED on seems super low and not to be seen during the day. It is faint but visible at night. So i think i will keep.
the halo around the cigarette lighter broke and didn't hold up to being glued when i tried to replace the lights. I really dint need it since that plug is mostly a USB power plug.
I didn't get the light working for the door ajar dash light.
The coolant temp needle was stuck at 0 now it is stuck 1/3. I believe the harness isn't seated all the way and will address next time i pull the dash. Otherwise i have been using my Bluetooth obd2 adapter and torque software to closely monitor the temps on the engine. It does scare me to have it over heat on my wife and her not know till it ruptures a head gasket.
on the to do list....
I really want to pull the dash and do the cdl button mod. I also want to get a pioneer red lit single din head unit with bluetooth and single din red lit CB
I also would like to add a couple more dedicated usb power ports.
hope the pics inspire some more lit up dashes as the factory bulbs start to burn out one by one
i promised pictures
here are my reds in the dash behind my new white gauges. very bright and look great at night. I thought it was great for night vision to use red.
I also did red in the climate control cluster, I left allot of the LEDs that were soldered behind buttons but they seem very weak now especially during the day.
the key ring was turned to red to match, the doors got super bright white courtesy/ puddle lights. The two over head lights where done with 9 white led panels.
problems along the way....
the green D i used a green 12 v LED on seems super low and not to be seen during the day. It is faint but visible at night. So i think i will keep.
the halo around the cigarette lighter broke and didn't hold up to being glued when i tried to replace the lights. I really dint need it since that plug is mostly a USB power plug.
I didn't get the light working for the door ajar dash light.
The coolant temp needle was stuck at 0 now it is stuck 1/3. I believe the harness isn't seated all the way and will address next time i pull the dash. Otherwise i have been using my Bluetooth obd2 adapter and torque software to closely monitor the temps on the engine. It does scare me to have it over heat on my wife and her not know till it ruptures a head gasket.
on the to do list....
I really want to pull the dash and do the cdl button mod. I also want to get a pioneer red lit single din head unit with bluetooth and single din red lit CB
I also would like to add a couple more dedicated usb power ports.
hope the pics inspire some more lit up dashes as the factory bulbs start to burn out one by one
It seems like everyone is using REALLY bright bulbs for this application.
I used lower power LED's because I hate the overspill of light coming from the needles.
This gives a near factory look, and I think its perfect.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/852/
I used lower power LED's because I hate the overspill of light coming from the needles.
This gives a near factory look, and I think its perfect.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/852/
It seems like everyone is using REALLY bright bulbs for this application.
I used lower power LED's because I hate the overspill of light coming from the needles.
This gives a near factory look, and I think its perfect.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/852/
That does look good, How many did you buy.
That looks great! I tried about 4 different LED bulbs before I settled on some super white non LEDs. Like you I thought the LEDs were to bright. Now when I get the 80 back I may have to try these. Do they dim?
Wow, those are wonderful. Is it all just one style of bulb in the dash cluster? Will have to do this.
There are four main bulbs (#194) that create the background light for the dash.
Every other warning light (ABS, diff lock, etc...) has there own separate smaller bulb (#74).
What LED type or number do I need for the hazard, rear defrost switches, the PO must of removed the whole bulb, I see empty holes..lol
