Type B. Just installed some tonight.
Definitive led thread for 80s
- Thread starter treerootCO
- Start date
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Interior LED
I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of which interior lights/switches are incandescent and which already use LED's ?
I am interested in switching all incandescent over to LED but do not want to change out existing LED bulbs already installed in various switches/buttons from the factory.
I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of which interior lights/switches are incandescent and which already use LED's ?
I am interested in switching all incandescent over to LED but do not want to change out existing LED bulbs already installed in various switches/buttons from the factory.
I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of which interior lights/switches are incandescent and which already use LED's ?
Isn't that pretty much covered on page one?
Lou
Are ANY of them LED from the factory?I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of which interior lights/switches are incandescent and which already use LED's ?
I've had the whole truck apart and not come across any except for the small green indicators in the A/C and window control panels.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
That's what I was thinking, but like you said earlier, the ENTIRE list is posted on the 1st page......
LED List
.....You guys are absolutely right, he does list out the LED's as well, I don't know how I missed that as I had looked at the list several times. It appears that all the factory LED's are soldered in place and only need to be changed if you want to change the color. All of the incandescent are plug in, which makes it pretty easy. Thanks for the heads up, I think I just have LED overload as I just changed out my 40 and am now starting on the 80.
.....You guys are absolutely right, he does list out the LED's as well, I don't know how I missed that as I had looked at the list several times. It appears that all the factory LED's are soldered in place and only need to be changed if you want to change the color. All of the incandescent are plug in, which makes it pretty easy. Thanks for the heads up, I think I just have LED overload as I just changed out my 40 and am now starting on the 80.
Has anyone on here come up with an updated LED parts list ?
While I appreciate the time and effort put into the list on page 1, it is of little use to anyone not knowledgeable in light bulbs. When searching on SuperBrightLeds.com I need actual bulb numbers to figure out what is what, typing in "Type B" or "Neo Wedge" either brings up "no results found" or brings up way too many options to be able to figure out what is what.
Don't want to spend money on incompatible s*** and after coming back an forth to this thread over the past month I'm still no closer to finalizing all the bulbs I need for an LED upgrade
While I appreciate the time and effort put into the list on page 1, it is of little use to anyone not knowledgeable in light bulbs. When searching on SuperBrightLeds.com I need actual bulb numbers to figure out what is what, typing in "Type B" or "Neo Wedge" either brings up "no results found" or brings up way too many options to be able to figure out what is what.
Don't want to spend money on incompatible s*** and after coming back an forth to this thread over the past month I'm still no closer to finalizing all the bulbs I need for an LED upgrade
- Thread starter
- #310
There are pictures of every bulb next to an LED equivalent on the 1st page.
Name one bulb you want to replace with an LED and I'll reply with what I am using
Name one bulb you want to replace with an LED and I'll reply with what I am using
I'm looking to replace all lights in my instrument panel cluster, to include warning and indicator lights. Also looking to replace the lights for the heater, and all the lights in the center dash area that don't require soldering. Eventually after I get my soldering skills up a bit I'll tackle the rest, but for now I'm only looking to tackle the easy "plug & play" replacements.
Planning to go with the 5-Lumen output 194's for my main cluster lighting in 6500k "Cool White" (part# WLED-W-120). Hoping to use nothing but lower output LEDs with 2-to-8 Lumen for light output, using cool white (6000k to 7000k color) for everything except for the red and amber warning lights... most of which seem to be burnt out on my vehicle.
Planning to go with the 5-Lumen output 194's for my main cluster lighting in 6500k "Cool White" (part# WLED-W-120). Hoping to use nothing but lower output LEDs with 2-to-8 Lumen for light output, using cool white (6000k to 7000k color) for everything except for the red and amber warning lights... most of which seem to be burnt out on my vehicle.
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At: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/instrument-cluster-gauge/
They list the following size/types of "Neo Wedge LEDs": NEO3, NEO4, and NEO5...
can't figure out which is "Neo" is the correct size/style
For "B Type" the following is listed: B10D, B8.3D, B8.4D, and B8.5D...
again can't figure out which size/style is correct
Don't see any "A Type" bulbs listed anywhere, is there another name or style/part # that they go by
They list the following size/types of "Neo Wedge LEDs": NEO3, NEO4, and NEO5...
can't figure out which is "Neo" is the correct size/style
For "B Type" the following is listed: B10D, B8.3D, B8.4D, and B8.5D...
again can't figure out which size/style is correct
Don't see any "A Type" bulbs listed anywhere, is there another name or style/part # that they go by
Why don't you just source everything from Autolumination and save yourself the confusion and what seems to be a headache Treeroot has done the leg work and it's all there in black and white.. or pickup the phone and maybe Superbright can answer your questions LouAt: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/instrument-cluster-gauge/ They list the following size/types of "Neo Wedge LEDs": NEO3, NEO4, and NEO5... can't figure out which is "Neo" is the correct size/style
Outstanding thread Treeroot! I'm bookmarking it as a reference.
That blue cluster would go great with my new Pioneer HU. It can be any color you want but I prefer it's blue (Oceanblue) hue, which looks like a match.
Just FYI, if anyone prefers incandescent lights but wishes they were brighter, Candlepower sells the 194 (door) bulb that's 5W instead of 4W. What this does is give you about 50% more lumens, and a whiter light at that.
That blue cluster would go great with my new Pioneer HU. It can be any color you want but I prefer it's blue (Oceanblue) hue, which looks like a match.
Just FYI, if anyone prefers incandescent lights but wishes they were brighter, Candlepower sells the 194 (door) bulb that's 5W instead of 4W. What this does is give you about 50% more lumens, and a whiter light at that.
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Asked for a little guidance from folks on the forum as I figured someone may have gone down the same path in regards to updated lighting. Not everyone likes blindly bright and in my opinion hideous looking LEDs that light up their dashboard like an airport landing strip at night. Unlike Autolumination Superbright actually lists the lumen rating for each bulb (many of which have 2-to-7 lumen output levels), this aids in being able to fine tune the look of the interior.
I'll have to strongly disagree with you on the clarity of the bulb information, I've explained there are four different kinds of "B-Type" (B10D, B8.3D, B8.4D, B8.5D), three different "Neowedge" (NEO3, NEO4, NEO5)... not very "black & white" regardless of where the "B type" or "neowedge" is purchased from.
Brilliant idea on contacting Superbrightleds, gee wish I had thought of that... oh wait I did... the person I spoke with wasn't much help so I was hoping to get some from ih8mud before I had to spend extra money on purchasing and returning/exchanging items that won't work.
Treerootco did it the first time around and many have used his advice. Now is your opportunity to blaze a new trail and do all the hard work and expense so others can learn from your mistakes/successes.
I'll be sure to log down all the information and update the thread once I get everything figured out, just in case anyone else ever gets interested in doing a similar style LED upgrade.
Alot of the switches have a green coating on the back of the label. If you use white LED's they'll appear green. I used red, and had to use really powerful leds to get light to shine through.
- Thread starter
- #319
One bulb type per post:
Type A (T3) and type B (T4) to start. Post 11 has the picture and the size. There is only (1) Type A (T3) in the entire vehicle and that is in the antenna switch. Every other bulb, with the twist lock base, is a Type B (T4). Reference post 87 for what I finally used to get the antenna switch to look OEM.
The OEM dimmer does work with the LEDs so, I wouldn't be too concerned about them being too bright. In post 72 and 76 I reported that the LED versions were too dim and did not match the OEM look of the incandescent bulbs. Because of this, I started replacing the LEDs with type 74 SMDs (post 76). It has been awhile and it now appears you can buy these made this way. How awesome is that! I recommend not buying the LEDs that are not SMD for type A and type B.
In the pic above, the type A is on the left and the type B is on the right.
The top one is a Type C and your Land Cruiser doesn't use those.
Make sure these will fit in the OEM switch. The ones I made out of type 64 SMDs were a lot shallower than the SMD ones Superbright sells. I copied the picture for reference at the bottom of this post. Staring at the picture, and comparing the latch, I would have to guess Superbright is using the TypeA in the picture that shows the height of the bulb. I can only assume the Type B is a little taller.
Here is a new one I know nothing about (could be too bright...who knows) but it is shallower in the event the SMD Type A and B from Suprtbright will not fit. Description says, "5630 Samsung - Outfitted with new 5630 leds which are 40% brighter".
If you happen to be on the Superbright webpage, these are listed as, "3 mm (T-1), 4 mm, 5 mm (T-1 3/4)" That is referring to the LED size and not the base. They should probably update the webpage to also include the size of the bases.
(Note - To choose the correct bulb, measure the diameter of the base)
Type A (T3)
8mm or 5/16"
Superbright NEO3-x is the T3 (8mm base 3mm LED)
Type B (T4)
10mm or 3/8"
Superbright NEO4-x is the T4 (10mm base 4mm LED)
Type C (T5)
12mm or 15/32"
Superbright NEO5-x is the T5 (12mm base 5mm LED)
The colors listed below are what came OEM. Match it if you want to keep a more OEM color, change it if you want to.
Shift Indicator
(1)Type B - green
(9)Type B - white
Defrost
(1)Type B - white
(1)Type B - amber
Rear Heater
(1)Type B - white
Hazard
(9)Type B - white
Antenna
(1)Type A - white
CenterDiff
(1)Type B - white
Heater
(3)Type B - green
What I did back in the day:
http://www.autolumination.com/
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
Type A (T3) and type B (T4) to start. Post 11 has the picture and the size. There is only (1) Type A (T3) in the entire vehicle and that is in the antenna switch. Every other bulb, with the twist lock base, is a Type B (T4). Reference post 87 for what I finally used to get the antenna switch to look OEM.
The OEM dimmer does work with the LEDs so, I wouldn't be too concerned about them being too bright. In post 72 and 76 I reported that the LED versions were too dim and did not match the OEM look of the incandescent bulbs. Because of this, I started replacing the LEDs with type 74 SMDs (post 76). It has been awhile and it now appears you can buy these made this way. How awesome is that! I recommend not buying the LEDs that are not SMD for type A and type B.
In the pic above, the type A is on the left and the type B is on the right.
The top one is a Type C and your Land Cruiser doesn't use those.
Make sure these will fit in the OEM switch. The ones I made out of type 64 SMDs were a lot shallower than the SMD ones Superbright sells. I copied the picture for reference at the bottom of this post. Staring at the picture, and comparing the latch, I would have to guess Superbright is using the TypeA in the picture that shows the height of the bulb. I can only assume the Type B is a little taller.
Here is a new one I know nothing about (could be too bright...who knows) but it is shallower in the event the SMD Type A and B from Suprtbright will not fit. Description says, "5630 Samsung - Outfitted with new 5630 leds which are 40% brighter".
If you happen to be on the Superbright webpage, these are listed as, "3 mm (T-1), 4 mm, 5 mm (T-1 3/4)" That is referring to the LED size and not the base. They should probably update the webpage to also include the size of the bases.
(Note - To choose the correct bulb, measure the diameter of the base)
Type A (T3)
8mm or 5/16"
Superbright NEO3-x is the T3 (8mm base 3mm LED)
Type B (T4)
10mm or 3/8"
Superbright NEO4-x is the T4 (10mm base 4mm LED)
Type C (T5)
12mm or 15/32"
Superbright NEO5-x is the T5 (12mm base 5mm LED)
The colors listed below are what came OEM. Match it if you want to keep a more OEM color, change it if you want to.
Shift Indicator
(1)Type B - green
(9)Type B - white
Defrost
(1)Type B - white
(1)Type B - amber
Rear Heater
(1)Type B - white
Hazard
(9)Type B - white
Antenna
(1)Type A - white
CenterDiff
(1)Type B - white
Heater
(3)Type B - green
What I did back in the day:
http://www.autolumination.com/
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
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- Thread starter
- #320
I received a PM asking about the air bag and fuel lights and I thought for sure I posted something in here about it.
Those two bulbs are still incandescent in my truck. If you put an LED in the airbag indicator, it stays dimly lit and doesn't turn on when you cycle the ignition like it should. Normal operation is the airbag light illuminates when you turn the key on and then turns off.
The low fuel indicator was either on all the time or always off when it was an LED so I swapped it back.
Those two bulbs are still incandescent in my truck. If you put an LED in the airbag indicator, it stays dimly lit and doesn't turn on when you cycle the ignition like it should. Normal operation is the airbag light illuminates when you turn the key on and then turns off.
The low fuel indicator was either on all the time or always off when it was an LED so I swapped it back.