frank, what a coincidence. i went to the same school, UP B. graduated 1999. nice meeting you here.
Definitive led thread for 80s (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter treerootCO
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Tree,
I noticed on the Rigid site they have heat synchs on the back of most of the LED light bars. Generally LED's make little to no heat. My question now that you've had them for a bit is how are they in the snow and freezing rain conditions? My fear with LED's in those applications is they could ice over and become snow covered unlike traditional lights or HID.
How have they performed in the cold?
Thanks,
Matt
I noticed on the Rigid site they have heat synchs on the back of most of the LED light bars. Generally LED's make little to no heat. My question now that you've had them for a bit is how are they in the snow and freezing rain conditions? My fear with LED's in those applications is they could ice over and become snow covered unlike traditional lights or HID.
How have they performed in the cold?
Thanks,
Matt
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
If you go to FAQ on Rigid's site... The first question is on durability with a link to a video that should answer your question... The very last section on the clip.. they freeze a light bar in water.. Not sure if you'd even want to turn on one of these light bars up in a snow storm at night.... Way to much reflection off the flakes to really help you see any better
Lou
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
Lou
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
Lou,
Thats where the dual's in Amber come into play....
Here's the answer I got from Rigid FYI for others with the same concerns:
Matt,
You will not have any issues with the cold as our light bars do create some
heat. The housing is designed such that it allows the heat to dissipate from
the LED module, which then is transferred to the housing. The aluminum is
used due to the properties it possesses which allow the heat to spread away
from the device.
If you ever watch Ice Road Truckers, you will see that Lisa uses our 10"
Hybrids on her rig.
The Amber is a great option for the elements and dusty roads as it does not
glare back at the driver and cuts through incredibly.
Please let me know if you have any additional questions or need further
assistance.
Best regards,
Armando Verdugo
Sales | Rigid Industries
480-655-0100 Ext 1013 | LED Lights | Off Road LED Light Bars | Military | Defense | Agriculture | Marine | Mining | Landscape | Police | Fire | Rigid Industries
Thats where the dual's in Amber come into play....
Here's the answer I got from Rigid FYI for others with the same concerns:
Matt,
You will not have any issues with the cold as our light bars do create some
heat. The housing is designed such that it allows the heat to dissipate from
the LED module, which then is transferred to the housing. The aluminum is
used due to the properties it possesses which allow the heat to spread away
from the device.
If you ever watch Ice Road Truckers, you will see that Lisa uses our 10"
Hybrids on her rig.
The Amber is a great option for the elements and dusty roads as it does not
glare back at the driver and cuts through incredibly.
Please let me know if you have any additional questions or need further
assistance.
Best regards,
Armando Verdugo
Sales | Rigid Industries
480-655-0100 Ext 1013 | LED Lights | Off Road LED Light Bars | Military | Defense | Agriculture | Marine | Mining | Landscape | Police | Fire | Rigid Industries
Bringing this back:
I tried the EP-34 with the jumper but get the same fast pattern as the stock unit, what did I miss?
Thanks!
-Matt
AMMO said:
Update:
EP-34 relay in and LEDs in all 4 turn signals, flashes faster then stock but not strobe fast when the truck is not running. Hazards flash at same pace as turn signals.
Now for the weird part, once the truck is started and running hazards same as not running, turn signals however just go full BUZZ and no flash at all. Kill the engine and they flash as they did before...
Ideas anyone?
-A
probably voltage is peaking higher when alternator is involved.
I use some voltage regulators, ensures a constant 12v (but I'm no expert
)
"Sharp PQ12RD21J00H low-loss regulators"
I actually use these for my driving lights which are a led strip, I didn't want them failing too early just because of voltage spikes.
I use some voltage regulators, ensures a constant 12v (but I'm no expert
)"Sharp PQ12RD21J00H low-loss regulators"
I actually use these for my driving lights which are a led strip, I didn't want them failing too early just because of voltage spikes.
Last edited:
Would you be able to update page 1 parts with the revisions you've posted indicating the improvements you've made over time? (Power Antenna mods, 2nd, O/D Off, Amber improvements)
My LX450 came with most of the bulbs burned out on the buttons, and the D light of course, and I'm looking to go blue/red as most of the current cars are.
My LX450 came with most of the bulbs burned out on the buttons, and the D light of course, and I'm looking to go blue/red as most of the current cars are.
An update would be great.....
FWIW: My experience and understanding is that while the Light Emitting Diode itself doesn't generate much heat, the circuitry involved in high performance lights, like those tactical flashlights which put out 500+ lumens, does produce a lot of heat. And they take special batteries which don't last very long at full power. Those fancy Cree XM-L diodes in the top of the line tactical flashlights (aka torches) can put out amazing light, but they take a lot of power and the electronics behind the diode get really hot. The ones I've dealt with only run at full power for 5 minutes or so before they shut off or drop to the lower settings.
What is the wattage i would need for the rear amber and stop lights? autoillumination has many wattages in amber and red but I just don't know which to get.
Hey, I am trying to do LED signal lights. The OEM flasher relay of course gets real fast when the incandescent bulbs are replaced with LED arrays.
I tried the Napa ep-34 relay mod mentioned in another, locked thread but it did not help.
Any ideas?
I tried the Napa ep-34 relay mod mentioned in another, locked thread but it did not help.
Any ideas?
Timpanogos Slim said:
I had to use the relay from superbrightLEDs with the terminal bridge removed and reinstalled on the new relay. The napa didn't work on my 94.
Matt
Yeh I bought a TRIDON EP-34 from Advanced Auto, apparently it's the same as the superbrightLED flasher. Have yet to receive it with my amber signals. I hope it works.
Here's the NAPA fllasher thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=3746840&postcount=64
Here's the NAPA fllasher thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=3746840&postcount=64
Alright, thanks. I look forward to hearing whether the Tridon works, because although there is no Advance Auto in utah, i can get it from amazon, and i have Prime, so it will just show up in 2 days w/ free shipping.
Otherwise I'll get the one from superbright.
There's a review of the Tridon relay on Amazon saying that it works for just tails but not for tails AND front signals. *shrug*. I am also getting ready to rewire the front markers so that they are marker+signal. Bothers me that the front turn signals are only visible from the front and not the side.
And yeah, that was the thread i was referring to - locked for some reason.
I like my LED signals so far.
Otherwise I'll get the one from superbright.
There's a review of the Tridon relay on Amazon saying that it works for just tails but not for tails AND front signals. *shrug*. I am also getting ready to rewire the front markers so that they are marker+signal. Bothers me that the front turn signals are only visible from the front and not the side.
And yeah, that was the thread i was referring to - locked for some reason.
I like my LED signals so far.
Anyway, for anyone wanting to go cheap and chinese, here's what i just installed:
rear markers (red):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290664821046
Brake lights (red, of course):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310444407132
Front and rear turn signals (amber):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270894693418
Front corner markers (amber):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250959199674
I am a little disappointed with the front turn signals, but also my front turn signal lenses are badly oxidized. I am going to go over them with the headlight restoration kit i bought for my VW before that got wrecked, see if they can get a little clearer.
Here's what i just ordered for my upcoming conversion to dual-function front corner lights:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221166186588
of course, these being ebay links, they will be meaningless in 90 days.
I'm using colored LED arrays for all this because my experiment with cool white LED arrays was such a bitter disappointment. Warm white might work better. The problem with the cool white is that it turns out that LEDs (unlike incandescent lights) emit very narrow spectrum light, and the cool white emitters skew slightly blue. Amber lenses shown sort of peach colored. I hear that red lenses give you sort of a purplish pink with a cool white LED.
Amber LED arrays might actually work ok behind red lenses. Or might not. I'll give it a try when my 1157 amber arrays get here.
rear markers (red):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290664821046
Brake lights (red, of course):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310444407132
Front and rear turn signals (amber):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270894693418
Front corner markers (amber):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250959199674
I am a little disappointed with the front turn signals, but also my front turn signal lenses are badly oxidized. I am going to go over them with the headlight restoration kit i bought for my VW before that got wrecked, see if they can get a little clearer.
Here's what i just ordered for my upcoming conversion to dual-function front corner lights:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221166186588
of course, these being ebay links, they will be meaningless in 90 days.
I'm using colored LED arrays for all this because my experiment with cool white LED arrays was such a bitter disappointment. Warm white might work better. The problem with the cool white is that it turns out that LEDs (unlike incandescent lights) emit very narrow spectrum light, and the cool white emitters skew slightly blue. Amber lenses shown sort of peach colored. I hear that red lenses give you sort of a purplish pink with a cool white LED.
Amber LED arrays might actually work ok behind red lenses. Or might not. I'll give it a try when my 1157 amber arrays get here.
Last edited:
As Christo noted in another thread, your turn signals are uber important and it might not be worth screwing around with failure-prone low-end LEDs and/or flashers on that circuit. That being said, I did the plug and play wiring mod to have my front signals and side markers both signal flash and light up with running lights. I put the brightest Autolumination amber 1157 LEDs in the side markers only, keeping the incandescent 1157s in the front original signal lens assemblies. This keeps the amp draw normal on the signal circuit so my stock flasher works fine, and does not add substantially more draw to the original harnesses (by adding an extra element each side per the wiring mod). Please keep in mind when buying LEDs that the light from a normal incadescent bulb beams and relects in a wide range of angles, while many LEDs have a narrow "throw" of light (a safety issue for being viewed from the side). Also, many "dual filament" LEDs have a hard to discern difference between running lights and signal brightness. And LEDs should be the same color as the lenses involved.
My front signal lenses were very faded and were hard to see in the day. I cleaned them up well and them painted them with a spray clear coat lacquer. They are now easier to see in the day (for now).
Cheers, J
I've swapped every exterior bulb to a LED variant from superbrightLEDs... Running the relay from them keeps my signals at a normal pace for turn signals. The main reason I went this route is that for me I can then run a 11 dollar strobe controller on my amber circuit for LED strobes. I can then flip and kill the strobe switch for normal driving and hazards. When I'm on a mission all ambers on the truck are in strobe function, and nicely in a hide away factory location.
One of my teammates is running the eBay LEDs and has had mixed results. He's been running the white version behind amber lenses. Very washed out in appearance. I suggest running the same color led as the lens for the best results. Also the superbirightLED's seem to have a much better design and diode placement for maximum reflection in the stock housing. If can post a video i will, if its requested.
Matt
One of my teammates is running the eBay LEDs and has had mixed results. He's been running the white version behind amber lenses. Very washed out in appearance. I suggest running the same color led as the lens for the best results. Also the superbirightLED's seem to have a much better design and diode placement for maximum reflection in the stock housing. If can post a video i will, if its requested.
Matt
Lets see if one of y'all can help me out. Just tried the napa ep-34. Flashers won't even come on. Any ideas?
do you just hear a sort of buzzing sound? because that's what i got this morning until i put back in the incandescent bulbs.
OR, did you forget the little jumper thing that was attached to the toyota/denso flasher?
