Dave's Cruiser Questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Or just measure flange to flange of front and rear. Whichever is longer gets the longer shaft.


There's a "that's what she said" joke in there somewhere.
 
@NCFJ maybe you know since you have trucks in and out of your shop. Here's the original question....

Moving stuff around the garage today and I got my drive shaft pieces out of order.

The two slip yokes look to be slightly different lengths...which ( longer or shorter) goes with the rear axle shaft and which for the front axle?

I'll take a look tomorrow, slipped my mind today.
 
Dave, I checked out the front and rear shaft I have from a4 FJ60 and the slips were the same size on these.
 
@NCFJ Interesting; I guess that’s part of the fun of having a truck you don’t know the history of...figuring out what POs may or may not have done to it!
 
The front shaft on the 84 I have here is a double cardan where all the others I have seen are a single U joint. That may well be the difference. I have never looked at the shafts with slip yoke length in mind in the past so I do not know definitely.
 
CALLING ON THE LX450 / FJ80 OWNERS...

I’m out of town visiting family and may have an opportunity at a super clean (at least in the photos so far) ‘97 LX450. Not being familiar with the 450s yet, what problem areas should I look out for in particular for this model?

The underside looks like it could be 9/10 and it has 209K miles on the odo. Interior upholstery was recently redone. Not locked, but can’t win them all I guess.

 
Look for rust in the rockers, rear sill area from underneath (same as the rear body mounts on a 60). Bushing conditions, birf leakage, smell the atf for burning, oil for grit, etc.

Check for clicking from the front end when at full lock driving slow, clunk when shifting into drive from park, or reverse from drive.
 
Last edited:
Look for rust in the rockers, rear will area from underneath (same as the rear body mounts on a 60). Bushing conditions, birf leakage, smell the atf for burning, oil for grit, etc.

Check for clicking from the front end when at full lock driving slow, clunk when shifting into drive from park, or reverse from drive.

NM. JC had it covered.
 
Ok...I've consulted the FSM, but it's not clear (or at least I'm not seeing it). Can the input shaft oil seal on a 4-sp FJ60 trans be replaced without disassembling the trans? Obviously I'd have to drop the trans, but can I get it all down, pop out a bad seal, replace, re-install and be on my way?
 
I believe so. Front bearing retainer comes off, input shaft stays. *Edited*
 
Last edited:
Yes, it's super easy, the input shaft stays in the transmission, so it's just the seven or eight bolts, seal is on the inside of the retainer. Make sure you have a new gasket too
 
Ok... I’m collecting all the stuff to baseline the 80 series all in one shot. When looking at plugs, wires, etc. I came across this picture on the Delta site.

What is the gasket circled in red? Is that the throttle body gasket?

I don’t see it in any of the other tune-up “kits” sold by other vendors.

FDD8333D-2F0E-4259-BF79-75E260DD538D.jpeg
 
Ok... I’m collecting all the stuff to baseline the 80 series all in one shot. When looking at plugs, wires, etc. I came across this picture on the Delta site.

What is the gasket circled in red? Is that the throttle body gasket?

I don’t see it in any of the other tune-up “kits” sold by other vendors.

View attachment 2559798
Looks like throttle body to upper intake? Not sure why that would be in a baseline “kit”. Also fwiw, look up the contents of that kit at partsouq or the dealer just for a price comparison, probably save a bunch and get the same parts.
 
Looks like throttle body to upper intake? Not sure why that would be in a baseline “kit”. Also fwiw, look up the contents of that kit at partsouq or the dealer just for a price comparison, probably save a bunch and get the same parts.
Oh yeah...not exactly sure why this “kit” is $450. I searched around for each individual part, compared prices / shipping, and ordered from the best combination of vendors.

I was looking on Partsouq, but the shipping estimator was saying +$175 on like $85 worth of parts. Didn’t seem right, but I couldn’t get it to go away.

I even tried to support my local Toyota parts counter today by going in with a list of all the weather seal parts and prices I pulled from an out of state dealership. I asked if they could beat or at least come close to matching the prices and I order through them. To quote...”Holy crap! We can’t get anywhere close to that...order from them”.
 
I was looking on Partsouq, but the shipping estimator was saying +$175 on like $85 worth of parts. Didn’t seem right, but I couldn’t get it to go away.

I ordered from Partsouq about a month ago and it was reasonable. I just ordered from Amayama last week and it cost $63 to ship 2 little heater pipes that were about $10 ea. In this case I couldn't find the parts anywhere else, they're for a LJ71. I guess international shipping prices are going up, maybe the drastic reduction in air travel is catching up with shipping costs.
 
Ok...working through the a/c system on the 80... I called around to get some quotes and find a shop that would install OEM parts I sourced. Nobody had an issue installing my parts, but one shop rattled off the list of parts to make sure I would have everything. He mentioned the orifice tube...

Can somebody confirm that a car's a/c system would have either an orifice tube OR an expansion valve...not both? I've read a bunch of general automotive repair sites, read through the a/c section of the FSM twice, and searched parts; can't find an orifice tube on a 1995 FJZ80.

EDIT: BTW, the quotes seemed to be upwards of ludicrous considering I was supplying all the parts. This is going to be something I do myself, minus extraction of the old refrigerant.
 
Last edited:
It’s really not a difficult job. If you want help, I have gauges and a vacuum pump. The expansion valve is basically attached to the evaporator, it’s a PIA to get at, but you probably should replace it while your doing all that other stuff. What’s wrong with the ac now? And what are you replacing?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom