Stop pin bushing info: Home Depot Aluminum bushing, from the hardware section. #8 I.D X 1/4" O.D. X 1/4" H. It is a press fit onto the stop pin and should last forever, unlike the nylon original.
Dave's Cruiser Questions (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJ Noob
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- Thread starter
- #182
I’ll add this. If you decide to open up the dizzy...
You make it sound so easy...I’m not @GLTHFJ60...it’ll take me longer than my lunch break
Definitely sounds interesting and educational though. I’m going to resist getting distracted by that until I finish dealing with rust and reattach the control arm on my wife’s truck
You make it sound so easy...I’m not @GLTHFJ60...it’ll take me longer than my lunch break
Definitely sounds interesting and educational though. I’m going to resist getting distracted by that until I finish dealing with rust and reattach the control arm on my wife’s truck
The dizzy work sounds complicated, but it’s very straightforward. PM me and I can walk you through it. Obviously, you will want to remove it and do the work on the bench. A bit too intricate to do installed in the truck.I’ll add this. If you decide to open up the dizzy...
You make it sound so easy...I’m not @GLTHFJ60...it’ll take me longer than my lunch break
Definitely sounds interesting and educational though. I’m going to resist getting distracted by that until I finish dealing with rust and reattach the control arm on my wife’s truck
View attachment 2672825
Removing and reinstalling is very easy too. Just take the dizzy cap off, rotate the engine till its at TDC (rotor pointed at cyl #4 iirc) and pull the dizzy out. Do your work on it, then reinstall dizzy in the same position.
You can mark the base of the dizzy against the block to align the adjustable timing back up, but I like to tune it by ear, rotating the dizzy while the engine is running till it sounds best.
You can mark the base of the dizzy against the block to align the adjustable timing back up, but I like to tune it by ear, rotating the dizzy while the engine is running till it sounds best.
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- Thread starter
- #185
We're back in business! Dizzy swap between the two trucks plus 2 minutes to re-set the timing after the install and she runs like a champ. Ran down the highway at 65mph without feeling power issues, quieter sounding, temp needle stayed down around halfway point.
Thanks again the ONSC crew for helping out, cutting my diagnosis time down, and teaching me something!
Thanks again the ONSC crew for helping out, cutting my diagnosis time down, and teaching me something!
- Thread starter
- #186
OK...got a semi-interesting one here. I swapped out my t-stat tonight (the only non-OEM part in the system) because I'm still getting higher than normal engine temps when I go over 50mph. Before I started pulling the housing apart, I reached over and squeezed the upper radiator hose for some reason. The hose was firm and pressurized like it's been running recently. I haven't driven the truck anywhere in 2 days. What would make the system remain pressurized?
EDIT: The engine temp issue is all over the place...no consistency as far as when or why it happens. The way it is fluctuating randomly, with the timing and advance issue fixed, I'm thinking a sticking t-stat and/or the system needs a good burp. Replaced the t-stat this evening and am heading over to the steepest driveway I know of to get the nose up and try burping the system.
EDIT: The engine temp issue is all over the place...no consistency as far as when or why it happens. The way it is fluctuating randomly, with the timing and advance issue fixed, I'm thinking a sticking t-stat and/or the system needs a good burp. Replaced the t-stat this evening and am heading over to the steepest driveway I know of to get the nose up and try burping the system.
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A non-leaking system will stay pressurized (to some extent) for a long while. Not abnormal imo.
To an extent. PV=nRT don't forget, so I'd expect it to drop with temperature drop. Although, the urh might be "pressurized" at ambient and you can't tell the difference between that and the higher pressure at full operating temp by squeezing the hose. I *think* that at ambient most urh's are fairly soft, but many here would know better than I.
- Thread starter
- #189
I considered that too, but I didn’t think 70 some-odd degrees would be warm enough. Either way, she got a new t-stat and getting the system flushed today. We’ll see what happens next.
- Thread starter
- #190
I've got a low RPM/rough idle thing going on now in the 60...I swear this truck gets jealous every time I touch the 80-series!
The other day when I came to the stop light after exiting the highway, my idle RPMs suddenly dropped to about 400 (previously was running fine right at the FSM spec'd 650). Everything is fine while I'm driving, just when I come to a stop and idle...RPMs drop almost low enough to stall. I can compensate by pulling the choke a little, but that won't fix anything.
I checked the FCS by disconnecting with the engine running. Engine died, so that's working. I sprayed around looking for a vacuum leak. Didn't notice any change in the engine sound. Double-checked timing to see if something got knocked loose at the Relic Run...timing was right where I left it.
I noticed one odd thing earlier today...If rev the RPMs to about 3K, it will settle back down at 650. Anything less than 3K and it goes back to nearly stalling.
I was planning on getting in and adjusting the valves because it's about that time. While I've got everything open, I'll pull the air horn and check the carb for debris. I'll also check the manifold bolts are still torqued properly and do an on-board inspection of the EGR per the FSM.
Other than that, any other suggestions? Just to head off the comments..."Just do an LS swap" is not a feasible suggestion at this point!
EDIT: I think the novelty of maintaining the 2F as "all original" may be wearing off. If we weren't preparing for a move soon, I would probably de-smog, install an EFI system, and call it a day.
The other day when I came to the stop light after exiting the highway, my idle RPMs suddenly dropped to about 400 (previously was running fine right at the FSM spec'd 650). Everything is fine while I'm driving, just when I come to a stop and idle...RPMs drop almost low enough to stall. I can compensate by pulling the choke a little, but that won't fix anything.
I checked the FCS by disconnecting with the engine running. Engine died, so that's working. I sprayed around looking for a vacuum leak. Didn't notice any change in the engine sound. Double-checked timing to see if something got knocked loose at the Relic Run...timing was right where I left it.
I noticed one odd thing earlier today...If rev the RPMs to about 3K, it will settle back down at 650. Anything less than 3K and it goes back to nearly stalling.
I was planning on getting in and adjusting the valves because it's about that time. While I've got everything open, I'll pull the air horn and check the carb for debris. I'll also check the manifold bolts are still torqued properly and do an on-board inspection of the EGR per the FSM.
Other than that, any other suggestions? Just to head off the comments..."Just do an LS swap" is not a feasible suggestion at this point!
EDIT: I think the novelty of maintaining the 2F as "all original" may be wearing off. If we weren't preparing for a move soon, I would probably de-smog, install an EFI system, and call it a day.
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Desomg, yes. EFI, no. Too many people have issues with the Sniper to justify the money IMO. I know of more than one person who regrets ditching the Aisin for the Sniper. Look up the okie rebuild. Try that and see if it clears the debris in your carb.
- Thread starter
- #192
Thanks, good to know. I haven’t dug deep enough, but I never see anyone follow-up down the road after the initial “this is amazing” comments.
I think David Miller loves his Sniper, but on these trucks, results may vary for sure. @FJinTegaCay
Too many? I have not heard of this. Just the Sniper or FI kits in general? I know people get wonky results with the cheap fuel pumps and 02 sensors included with some kits, but that is easy to fix.
Sure, there are issues, but what percentage are install/user error, installing a used/take off FI kit, mods made when installing, and other deviations from the main, engineered 'kit' are the source of problems? I've only heard good things about Holley tech support.
- Thread starter
- #195
Well...it seems like my issues are in fact due to jealously of the 80-series. I haven't done anything to the 60 yet, but took yesterday off from working on the 80. Drove around town this morning hitting a few of my favorite stores and the 60 was running perfectly normal the whole time. The truck is named Chloe after a chocolate lab we had for many years. It seems to be quite appropriate b/c the original Chloe was temperamental and kind of a B....just like this truck.
I’m one of the people Dave knows that regrets the Sniper regularly. I still have issues with it stalling. I never had carb issues. I’ve worked with a number of Holley techs (in addition to Cam) to change settings, and it’s certainly greatly improved over the last year. Sadly, it’s still not right and out of my depth. I’d likely be well served to have Marshall or Dean look it over closely.
Oh wow. I thought you were loving it. I'd be up to chatting about your issues and seeing if there's any remote chance I could assist. I got pretty proficient on troubleshooting my MegaSquirt system, and I now am learning the Holley software with my LS.
- Thread starter
- #198
Please bear with me on this one...still figuring out electrical things. EDIT: this is for the 80-series
Trying to troubleshoot why my a/c compressor won't come on. I've confirmed there is no power at the compressor electrical connection and am tracing it back from there. The FSM lists the main heater relay as a possibility. The last part of the procedure to check the relay is to "apply B+ between terminals 3 and 5" and check for continuity between 4 and 5.
How do I apply the B+ (battery voltage) to 3 and 5.....just get some wire and use the battery terminals? Do 3 & 5 both get (+) or does one get (+) and one get (-)?
Trying to troubleshoot why my a/c compressor won't come on. I've confirmed there is no power at the compressor electrical connection and am tracing it back from there. The FSM lists the main heater relay as a possibility. The last part of the procedure to check the relay is to "apply B+ between terminals 3 and 5" and check for continuity between 4 and 5.
How do I apply the B+ (battery voltage) to 3 and 5.....just get some wire and use the battery terminals? Do 3 & 5 both get (+) or does one get (+) and one get (-)?
- Thread starter
- #199
Noticed I recently started losing coolant in the 80-series and could smell whiffs of hot coolant from the engine bay. After looking at all the connections for leaks with no success, I finally found a wet spot towards the back of the block flowing down by the rear of the exhaust manifold.
The rear heater was deleted a while ago and the it’s not leaking at the firewall connections for the heater core. I also checked the freeze plug in that vicinity and it’s fine.
Am I about to learn how to replace the head gasket or is there something else back there less “catastrophic” that I’m missing?
The rear heater was deleted a while ago and the it’s not leaking at the firewall connections for the heater core. I also checked the freeze plug in that vicinity and it’s fine.
Am I about to learn how to replace the head gasket or is there something else back there less “catastrophic” that I’m missing?
Pesky heater hose?
