damn smog (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter airon23
- Start date
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Lesbo, I mean Airon,
Can you give us some specifics about your 60?
Year?
Engine?
Mods?
What have you done so far- maintenance wise?
What type of test is it?
How bad did you fail?
We need answers man - help us to help you!
Can you give us some specifics about your 60?
Year?
Engine?
Mods?
What have you done so far- maintenance wise?
What type of test is it?
How bad did you fail?
We need answers man - help us to help you!
do a tune up?
change everything from the air filter to the oil.
if you can post your #'s that would help
CO
HC
airon23 said:
change everything from the air filter to the oil.
if you can post your #'s that would help
CO
HC
- Thread starter
- #4
Sorry guys. Engine is 2f, year is 81, new wires and plugs, all compression at or around 95, no real mods done to engine, 93,000 miles.
Now at idle: Limit is 220---HC Reading is 2256
@ 2500 rpm Limit is 220---HC Reading is 446
CO% Limit is 1.20---Reading is 2.21(2500rpm)
at idle Limit is 1.20---Reading is 1.79
I have sheet in front of me now any questions?
Now at idle: Limit is 220---HC Reading is 2256
@ 2500 rpm Limit is 220---HC Reading is 446
CO% Limit is 1.20---Reading is 2.21(2500rpm)
at idle Limit is 1.20---Reading is 1.79
I have sheet in front of me now any questions?
ok......
to much fuel to start, but we knew that.
make sure your base idle is set 600-750 rpm's
check your timing...
valve adjustment may have a little to do with it(maybe)
and you can lean out your carb a bit.
turn down your fuel mix screw untill it starts to run rough,then turn it back up just a tiny little bit.
thats a start..
what you probably need is a good carb rebuild...
hope this helps, and if anyone can correct me, please do
to much fuel to start, but we knew that.
make sure your base idle is set 600-750 rpm's
check your timing...
valve adjustment may have a little to do with it(maybe)
and you can lean out your carb a bit.
turn down your fuel mix screw untill it starts to run rough,then turn it back up just a tiny little bit.
thats a start..
what you probably need is a good carb rebuild...
hope this helps, and if anyone can correct me, please do
95 psi is kinda low - what altitude are you at? You could be burning enough oil to impact the numbers.airon23 said:Sorry guys. Engine is 2f, year is 81, new wires and plugs, all compression at or around 95, no real mods done to engine, 93,000 miles.
Now at idle: Limit is 220---HC Reading is 2256
@ 2500 rpm Limit is 220---HC Reading is 446
CO% Limit is 1.20---Reading is 2.21(2500rpm)
at idle Limit is 1.20---Reading is 1.79
I have sheet in front of me now any questions?
- Thread starter
- #7
Not sure the altitude but I'm up in Reno NV. Will change the oil soon but Carb rebuild was done by father in law and myself about a year ago. Sorry I left that out.
Please any suggestions help. I only got 9 more days till the permit runs out.
Not sure about the timing. There's no mark that I could see to be able to time it but that could have something to do with it.
Please any suggestions help. I only got 9 more days till the permit runs out.
Not sure about the timing. There's no mark that I could see to be able to time it but that could have something to do with it.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Airon,
See if you can lean it out to the point of stumbling... Those #'s are a little frightening!!!
Search for setting timing by vacuum
See if you can lean it out to the point of stumbling... Those #'s are a little frightening!!!
Search for setting timing by vacuum
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Well, it definitely means your carb is fuq'd up!
How does it run?
How did you carb rebuild session w/ father in law go?
How does it run?
How did you carb rebuild session w/ father in law go?
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok I thought. How much is it to get it rebuilt? any ideas? Does it definately sound like it's the carb? It's been so long since the rebuild that it's hard to know if it ran any different because that's all I know from when we put it in.
Thanks for all your help too.
Thanks for all your help too.
i think you can get it (carb) rebuilt for ~200.00 at a local shop. if not less in your area (seattle is expensive). Also, maybe look at your intake/exh manifolds - those could make a diff (did for me). Have you had the valves adjusted?
Does NV have an exception available? I did the 150.00 worth of repairs to waive my smog here - make sure the shop is state certified to apply $$ towards the waiver.
hth
Rob
Does NV have an exception available? I did the 150.00 worth of repairs to waive my smog here - make sure the shop is state certified to apply $$ towards the waiver.
hth
Rob
same thing for me. getting it running right will likely take more than the 9 days before your temp expires. keep pluggin' away - you'll get it going right.
Your numbers look like what I was getting last year. I put a new carb, re-did the vac lines for all of the small smog stuff, and was still getting the super-high HCs.
The fix for me, as odd as this sounds, was with the air injection system. That's what you will need to look at (I am assuming that you are doing the dyno test, not the idle test) For me, the problem was a friggin' dealership mechanic hooked up my smog pump incorrectly. It was sucking where it needed to blow...that may or may not be the case with yours, but I'd say for one reason or another, air is not being injected into your head at the lower speeds (it switches at about 40-45 mph, and the air is injected into the exhaust pipe, unless your cat overheats, in which case it's blown back into the breather, IIRC). The air injection system increases the temp and helps burn of HCs at the head in lower speeds, and in the exhaust as your speed increases.
You could have a bad pump, or the VSVs are not switching the ABV to the right junctions, etc. If you don't have the FSM for the emissions stuff, get it and go through everything. I can't stress that enough. EVERY hose (my first few times around, I looked at the vac stuff only, and it was the two large hoses on the pump it's self).
That said, your compression is WAY too low. You could get all of your air injection stuff right, but it still may not pass. Generally, as I understand it, the 2F will run forever, but as the rings go, it will start loosing power, and using a ton of gas.
A full tune-up will help, and you need to check your vavle clearance. Make sure you are running the right temp plugs, and set your timing. If your compression is at 95psi, you're going to need all the help you can get.
The fix for me, as odd as this sounds, was with the air injection system. That's what you will need to look at (I am assuming that you are doing the dyno test, not the idle test) For me, the problem was a friggin' dealership mechanic hooked up my smog pump incorrectly. It was sucking where it needed to blow...that may or may not be the case with yours, but I'd say for one reason or another, air is not being injected into your head at the lower speeds (it switches at about 40-45 mph, and the air is injected into the exhaust pipe, unless your cat overheats, in which case it's blown back into the breather, IIRC). The air injection system increases the temp and helps burn of HCs at the head in lower speeds, and in the exhaust as your speed increases.
You could have a bad pump, or the VSVs are not switching the ABV to the right junctions, etc. If you don't have the FSM for the emissions stuff, get it and go through everything. I can't stress that enough. EVERY hose (my first few times around, I looked at the vac stuff only, and it was the two large hoses on the pump it's self).
That said, your compression is WAY too low. You could get all of your air injection stuff right, but it still may not pass. Generally, as I understand it, the 2F will run forever, but as the rings go, it will start loosing power, and using a ton of gas.
A full tune-up will help, and you need to check your vavle clearance. Make sure you are running the right temp plugs, and set your timing. If your compression is at 95psi, you're going to need all the help you can get.
sl33py said:
In TX, you can do the waiver, and the cost is $300 the first year spent on smog fixing, and you can only drive the vehicle 3000 miles that year. The next year, the requirements go way up, and you have to spend $1500 (or more - I think it's more) and you still have to only drive 3000 miles.
The waiver bit sucks.
The smog pump is right under the power steering pump on the driver's side. Pull off the hose coming from the air cleaner at idle going down to the smog pump and make sure it is sucking good.
The compression could come up if your valve were not adjusted correctly or if your rings are going out that would cause the low numbers too. It might just be a bad guage.That is good all your numbers are the same even if the guage is wrong.Seems like with all the numbers low it would probably be old rings. Do a wet test by putting some oil in the cylinder while doing a compression test and if the numbers come up then rings are sealing better and you know it is the rings. It does not take that much oil.
The compression could come up if your valve were not adjusted correctly or if your rings are going out that would cause the low numbers too. It might just be a bad guage.That is good all your numbers are the same even if the guage is wrong.Seems like with all the numbers low it would probably be old rings. Do a wet test by putting some oil in the cylinder while doing a compression test and if the numbers come up then rings are sealing better and you know it is the rings. It does not take that much oil.
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
If you were running a diesel Id say to fill up with Bio Diesel. That would pass you. As you're not running a diesel Ill say good luck.
You could also try a heavier weight oil...might help with the compression a little. Def. do a leakdown test and adjust the valves. do the easy stuff first like air filter, plugs, check timing, vacuum, etc. Also check all your vac lines. How does it run otherwise, besides slow and gutless?
