Install: Stainless Trays, Dual Blue Tops, and BIC w/ remote

[sl33py]

I had a lot of fun down in Olympia this weekend getting these installed. I know this is not rocket science, but it was nice working with Brandon (mud OlympiaFJ60) of OlympiaFJ60.net | Land Cruiser Obsessions and his shop w/ parts: EastOlympiaCruisers.com.

Great guy and definitely worth the drive down from Seattle to hook up with.

So here's the new (to me) 84 prepped for surgery.

I just got my new SS tray from Noel at Stainless Steel Battery Trays for TOYOTA LANDCRUISER. Another great guy. I've been emailing him since i heard he lost access to get his trays made. Around Christmas I pinged him and got a quick response:

Hi Rob

I did stop making them but I am now seriously thinking of making more. Hopefully I can get some going.
Check my website once and a while, or just email me.

Regards,
Noel

then about a month ago he emailed me:

Hello Land Cruiser people!
I have begun to produce battery trays again. I have only a few 60s in stock right now but have 100 sets in the works.
The 40s are still in the works.
55s are in stock. No Optima 31s for the 55s.
I have had to raise the price a bit because of this wonderful economy.
They are $69 plus shipping. As before you have a choice of left or right and hold downs for standard, 34 series Optima, and Optima 31 batteries.
Sorry I have taken so long!

Regards,
Noel Brodzinski
DK Enterprises
stainlesstrays.com

I spoke with him that day, and the tray was on it's way the next day.

So i've been sitting on this GORGEOUS SS tray waiting for him to finally have them available online.

today is that day!!

Tray set in

Missing one hole to bolt to fender:

Easy fix - hole and washer/nut.

With the brace (man this is a good looking tray! almost a shame to put a battery on it and block the view!):

OK - got the battery in, with a group 34 specific hold down.

AND the coolest part - a washer bottle relocation bracket!! He made a couple of these, though i don't think they are on his site. This thing is perfect - clean and really well thought out. If you want one email him to add it to your order.

I am going to desmog next, so this is currently not being used. The smog assembly is in the way (i knew it wouldn't fit). I added a small extension of tube, and put the overflow bottle on the smog assembly. Not going anywhere for now. Desmog soon and i'll clean this up.

Additionally i don't have headlight washers or the bottle. (useless in my mind). That made room for the BIC-95300 from Hellroaring Battery Isolator/Combiner BIC-75300. I paired it with a fuse panel for accessories (still in the works), which also acts as a PDU for clean installs w/ standard fuses (same blade type as interior fuse panel). 100A max from Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies (item 70365):

The BIC remote installed here - i think this turned out very clean w/ a bit of loom not shown:

i like that i can see it easily and reach it, but it's out of the way. I'm a big guy (6'8" - 260lbs) and don't want anything hanging in the way that restricts even more leg room.

I need to grab some more shots of the final install. Here's brandon finishing up the wiring, and new military terminals (like these a lot!):

So I will post up the final install - let me know if anyone wants to see anything specific!

Hope this helps with someone's install.


rob

 

[rfj62]

Looks awesome

I might just have to get one of those.

 

[NLXTACY]

Ok questions....

1. What if you plan on keeping the headlightwasher?
2. What if you HAVE to keep all your smog rap?
3. What if you have zero interest in using Optima and would rather go Sears Platinum?

Man I want those trays. Gorgeous.

 

[RockDoc]

Ok questions....

1. What if you plan on keeping the headlightwasher?
2. What if you HAVE to keep all your smog rap?
3. What if you have zero interest in using Optima and would rather go Sears Platinum?

Man I want those trays. Gorgeous.

I believe he offers 3 sizes (standard and 2 Gp sizes of Optima) and your choice of bracing for DS or PS mounting (2nd battery or stock position)

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm jealous! I want some SS trays!!

 

[sl33py]

Ok questions....

1. What if you plan on keeping the headlightwasher?
2. What if you HAVE to keep all your smog rap?
3. What if you have zero interest in using Optima and would rather go Sears Platinum?

Man I want those trays. Gorgeous.

LOL - good questions.

1. keep it. You will just need to find another spot to tuck the BIC and fuse panel. They are small - shouldn't be a problem.

2. keep it and don't get bracket. I've seen several inventive spots to mount it without messing with the smog assembly.

3. get another battery. The group sizes are common so you can get a group 34 non-optima. or a group 31 if you want. or the stock (27 i think).

easy as pie. I'm so glad they are finally available again! One of the few "bling" on my rig!

GL!

rob

 

[NLXTACY]

Just emailed him. I hope his email hasn't changed from what he has on the site.

Thanks Rob!

Great job BTW!

 

[sl33py]

I might just have to get one of those.

thx rfj. I wish i could take more credit, but i just helped here and there. It was really great to see someone who took the extra time to get it installed how I liked. Good mechanics are hard to find, and cruiserhead mechanics even more so!

I should show a pic of the disconnect he made on the kick panel. I knew i was going to be doing the damplifier install soon, so he did a trick connector to make it easy to disconnect and remove for the install. Don't think i will pull that panel very often, but nice touch.

rob

 

[sl33py]

Just emailed him. I hope his email hasn't changed from what he has on the site.

Thanks Rob!

Great job BTW!

thanks NLX! i've read a ton of your very thorough writeups.

(a couple even on the...shh...80's board! don't tell anyone i went over there! hehehe)

I especially like the links in your sig to your updates. I hope to "borrow" (ie rip off) the idea and have links to some of these builds. My LED upgrades, Damplifier install, Rear Sliders rebuild and install (if i ever get them installed), etc...

It's not a single build thread, but kind of pick-n-choose for folks who want to figure out how to do "x". Ultimately just trying to give back a bit!

rob

 

[askeyey]

Great write up so far. I've been taking notes from NLX and now you to get prepped for my own dual setup. Be sure to add some pics of your accessory wiring from that new fuse block, just to generate some more ideas. what all are you planning to power?

 

[sl33py]

Great write up so far. I've been taking notes from NLX and now you to get prepped for my own dual setup. Be sure to add some pics of your accessory wiring from that new fuse block, just to generate some more ideas. what all are you planning to power?

finally installing the headlight relay for my Cibie's. (2 fuses)
Arb compressor for eventual air lockers

I have the painless fuse panel as well that will eventually go inside. That should power CB, Radio, 12v plug (x2), plus a couple odds and ends...

Thinking of a good permanently mounted inverter - need to hit the electrical gadgets section of mud and ask for recommendations. I'd like some regular 3 prong outlets in the back and maybe one somewhere towards the front.

rob

 

[askeyey]

finally installing the headlight relay for my Cibie's. (2 fuses)
Arb compressor for eventual air lockers

I have the painless fuse panel as well that will eventually go inside. That should power CB, Radio, 12v plug (x2), plus a couple odds and ends...

Thinking of a good permanently mounted inverter - need to hit the electrical gadgets section of mud and ask for recommendations. I'd like some regular 3 prong outlets in the back and maybe one somewhere towards the front.

rob

Sounds a lot like where I'm headed. I found a nice duracell inverter that I'm wondering if I could leave one outlet in the front and run a regual extension to the back and mount it in the side panel.

what are you going to run off the starter battery? Just factory stuff? I'm still undecided after about three weeks of research if I want to go the route of powering everything extra off the deep cycle to save the starter battery or take the opposite method of running everything off a good starter battery and just using the deep cycle for emergencies to jump the main battery.

 

[sl33py]

everything of the primary battery. the second is backup only. I figure if i run a fridge on a dedicated 12v (not that i have one yet), or a laptop off of inverter - no biggie. Leave the stereo on w/ no worry about starting later...etc. Eventually wired to combine for winching if needed.

rob

 

[NLXTACY]

You are doing it the right way. Same reasons as me. I've seen so many people do the best designs, mods, engineering and I figured I'd do some myself. I tend to go overboard on the LX but I'm trying to stay simple and efficient on the 60. Great job and keep em coming

thanks NLX! i've read a ton of your very thorough writeups.

(a couple even on the...shh...80's board! don't tell anyone i went over there! hehehe)

I especially like the links in your sig to your updates. I hope to "borrow" (ie rip off) the idea and have links to some of these builds. My LED upgrades, Damplifier install, Rear Sliders rebuild and install (if i ever get them installed), etc...

It's not a single build thread, but kind of pick-n-choose for folks who want to figure out how to do "x". Ultimately just trying to give back a bit!

rob

 

[NLXTACY]

Hehe, I hope there aren't too many notes of what NOT to do

As soon as the Stainless guy contacts me I will get started on my own dual battery set up as well. The only thing keeping me from doing it was the tray really. Now I have an excuse. Hmmm...does the 60 need integrated jumper cables?

Great write up so far. I've been taking notes from NLX and now you to get prepped for my own dual setup. Be sure to add some pics of your accessory wiring from that new fuse block, just to generate some more ideas. what all are you planning to power?

 

[NLXTACY]

Thinking of a good permanently mounted inverter - need to hit the electrical gadgets section of mud and ask for recommendations. I'd like some regular 3 prong outlets in the back and maybe one somewhere towards the front.

rob

Ok well think about what you need the inverter for first. That way you'll know if you need a MOD vs PURE sine inverter. Pricewise they are worlds apart. But either can be torn into and made into a custom, permanent install.

 

[Spike Strip]

Hehe, I hope there aren't too many notes of what NOT to do

Hmmm...does the 60 need integrated jumper cables?

If you do it, I want some too!

 

[sl33py]

Hehe, I hope there aren't too many notes of what NOT to do

As soon as the Stainless guy contacts me I will get started on my own dual battery set up as well. The only thing keeping me from doing it was the tray really. Now I have an excuse. Hmmm...does the 60 need integrated jumper cables?

tell him i said hi. I think your 80's cables were AWESOME! but a bit overboard right?! let me be evil though - you really could get away with just the truck side and then carry the extension/external part when on trips w/ that truck (swap between the two=1/2 the cost to install on the 60!)

As for the inverter - mainly for laptop - maybe cooler. Blender while "camping" (ie drinking with friends outdoors)... margarita anyone?! lol

rob

 

[NLXTACY]

If you do it, I want some too!

Well I will keep you updated then SPIKE

 

[NLXTACY]

tell him i said hi. I think your 80's cables were AWESOME! but a bit overboard right?! let me be evil though - you really could get away with just the truck side and then carry the extension/external part when on trips w/ that truck (swap between the two=1/2 the cost to install on the 60!)

As for the inverter - mainly for laptop - maybe cooler. Blender while "camping" (ie drinking with friends outdoors)... margarita anyone?! lol

rob

I thought about just using one set of jumper cables but thought against it. Each truck should have its own dedicated set.

If you are doing a laptop you will need to go PURE SINE inverter which means you just moved the decimal point to the right by one column. Also anything with NiCad batteries requires PURE SINE as well. Everything else can use MOD SINE just fine. Enjoy!