ordered a new shaft from the dealer... will take one that is on the car now and use my rebuild kit (assuming it's in good enough condition to rebuild)
CV Boots Replaced with directions
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ordered a new shaft from the dealer... will take one that is on the car now and use my rebuild kit (assuming it's in good enough condition to rebuild)
getting ready to reboot a cv axel on a 99 lx470. New cv axel from Toyota is about $700
my question is ordered 04427-60121 which should be the kit for the OEM cv axel.
I received 4 tubes of grease. so which grease do you use for inner and outer and do you use all four tubes?
i am guessing they may have run out of bigger tubes of grease So I received 240g of darker grease and 300g of the lighter grease.
my question is ordered 04427-60121 which should be the kit for the OEM cv axel.
I received 4 tubes of grease. so which grease do you use for inner and outer and do you use all four tubes?
i am guessing they may have run out of bigger tubes of grease So I received 240g of darker grease and 300g of the lighter grease.
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Interesting... I have boot kit 04427-60120, and it has 2 tubes of grease, but I'm seeing a note that 04427-60121 replaces 60120
In the picture at parts.longotoyota.com for 04427-60121, it does show 2 tubes of grease and not 1.
The tubes of grease in my kit have part numbers ending in 94241 at 293g and 94242 at 368g. The grease is different colored, and I was going to go with the color in each cup as what this guy did
I just bought a CV shaft from Frontier Toyota in Valencia California for 530 and change out the door. They are local to me, and had the part from their warehouse ready for pickup the next day.
In the picture at parts.longotoyota.com for 04427-60121, it does show 2 tubes of grease and not 1.
The tubes of grease in my kit have part numbers ending in 94241 at 293g and 94242 at 368g. The grease is different colored, and I was going to go with the color in each cup as what this guy did
I just bought a CV shaft from Frontier Toyota in Valencia California for 530 and change out the door. They are local to me, and had the part from their warehouse ready for pickup the next day.
So, I dropped in the new axle, and took the old one apart. Inboard cup looks great.... but the outboard birfield cup as THE SAME scarring as my old spare did! However, the scarring is on the opposite side of the bearing race in the cup... which makes sense. I think the earlier shaft came out of the passenger side, and this one came out of the driver's side.
thinking I might buy the half shaft option this time around and use the existing inboard cup :-(
thinking I might buy the half shaft option this time around and use the existing inboard cup :-(
uHu
Bridgeburner
Does that mean that it's a good idea to swap the left and right driveshafts around every 100k or so? If it's done at the same time as a full hub/bearing/spindle service (or brake rotor), there's no extra work.
Seems like it wouldn't hurt
I would guess that the passenger shaft was around 190k miles, and the driver's 220k miles. Driver's side does look more pitted than passenger side. The shafts had been rebooted/greased in the past, but doubtful that they were swapped.
If I was doing this job, I would normally do one side, finish it all up, and then move to the other. Ie, no swap
Just did the drivers side cv axel today
followed the instructions, but took off the entire wheel assembly for easier removal I also tied a strap to outer part to level it out and used a brass punch and tapped It a few times to pop it out. It was surprisingly easy to remove.
my inner boot wasn’t ripped but was leaking from the small band. Lost too much grease already.I decide to just replace the inner boot but did the boot extension mod. I’d did not remove the inner axel clip that goes into the differential, just kept the old one. Make sure the clip opening is pointing towards the 6 0clock position and I lightly pushed it with the outer end and it popped in very easily.
will do the passenger side tomorrow , heard that side is harder.
followed the instructions, but took off the entire wheel assembly for easier removal I also tied a strap to outer part to level it out and used a brass punch and tapped It a few times to pop it out. It was surprisingly easy to remove.
my inner boot wasn’t ripped but was leaking from the small band. Lost too much grease already.I decide to just replace the inner boot but did the boot extension mod. I’d did not remove the inner axel clip that goes into the differential, just kept the old one. Make sure the clip opening is pointing towards the 6 0clock position and I lightly pushed it with the outer end and it popped in very easily.
will do the passenger side tomorrow , heard that side is harder.
you might want to flex the boot around a little to see if you can find any holes. I suppose you could re-clamp, but it isn't like the existing clamp came loose... I don't know how the grease would get around the existing clamp, but I suppose it does...
actually, I'm not sure if I see a clamp at all on the small end of the inner boot.... Unless it's just so gunked up that it blends in.
...
Torn inner boot in the process of rebooting.
1) How does this inboard outer cage look.
Can feel some very slight ribs with my. finger nail
1) How does this inboard outer cage look.
Can feel some very slight ribs with my. finger nail
looks good enough for another 10-15 years!
the damage I had on the cup here: CV Boots Replaced with directions - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cv-boots-replaced-with-directions.388534/post-14856255, was enough that you could feel it with your finger tip, didn't need to fingernail it.
the damage I had on the cup here: CV Boots Replaced with directions - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cv-boots-replaced-with-directions.388534/post-14856255, was enough that you could feel it with your finger tip, didn't need to fingernail it.
Awesome thanks
The inboard boot on my 2 year old - new-from-toyota - CV axle tore. By the time I'm getting around to fixing it, it's COMPLETELY torn and I've been driving around like that for a bit. I'm about to reboot it, but just posting here in case anyone thinks thats a bad idea due to contamination and I should get a new one? Probably will clean extremely well with WD40 then degreaser, then repack and reboot.
hey all, I repacked and booted both OEM axles on 2001 LC. During the process I damaged the differential seal on the drive side(leaks, drip drip) and am now going to get back in there and replace that...been doing some searching but - looking for the correct part# (i believe those seals are specific to driver side and passenger side) and to what degree I need to disassemble that drive side suspension, axle, etc when all I am going to do is replace the diff seal?
Thanks for any advice!
Thanks for any advice!
I don't have the part number handy, but I do use https://partsouq.com/ frequently to find the part number I'm looking for.
alia176
SILVER Star
I ran into this issue when I was doing the same project. I ended up going to Napa for one of the seals, and with OEM for the other side. Maybe I bought two by accident and found out the hard way
2001LC
SILVER Star
It P/N #'s are mentioned many times in this thread. Here's just one spot within, which also has links to seals:
CV Boots Replaced with directions
I ordered the pfran clamps and it seems with time they’ll damage the boots. Is the tool for the oem clamp that comes with the kit required? Or is there a type of clamp I can use to install the oem clamps?
forum.ih8mud.com
Thread also has many ways "skin this cat" (to get at the seal).
2 ways I use, while working on jack stands:
1) Pull UCA ball joint off knuckle.
2) Pull knuckle off.
"I always use a puller" I never pound out ball joints.
Installing seal these days, I use Wit'send tool. But for years I used a 3/4 square oak stick. Tap in until flash with inner shelve. Make very sure to scrape all crud from shelve of diff, to get nice flat surface to work with.
Read all 18 page of this thread and or find the many threads, dealing with diff side seal install. Then you'll do the job once.
I use only OEM seals.
@abuck99 @suprarx7nut @OwnerCS @Trunk Monkey @2001LC I have a 2001 LX (193k mi) with split CV boots. You guys are the old fekkers here and I'm glad y'all commented on this thread. You all have convinced me to tackle this job myself, and to suck it up and buy the real deal. My local Toyota parts counter has 43430-60040 for $377 a piece and I'm OK with that. I have NEVER done axles before but if I can do a timing chain job on a BMW M62 engine this shouldn't be horrible. I'm just an axle virgin.
1) What SPECIFIC tools for this job should I just invest in? I have sockets, an aircat gun, 33gal compressor, jackstands, all the usual crap that people who work on cars as a hobby have. But what is going to make THIS job easier?
2) @abuck99 in post 13 you mentioned a ton of other misc parts. Forgive me for being a complete dumbass with an axle job, but... do you know any P/Ns for these things? I don't know how this stuff even goes together. I've never serviced a car with brakes that come off as part of the hub assembly.
3) Lastly, does anyone have a recommended "gold standard" mud DIY or youtube video for this exact job? I'm still researching right now.
Thank you guys, this forum is magical for a reason.
1) What SPECIFIC tools for this job should I just invest in? I have sockets, an aircat gun, 33gal compressor, jackstands, all the usual crap that people who work on cars as a hobby have. But what is going to make THIS job easier?
2) @abuck99 in post 13 you mentioned a ton of other misc parts. Forgive me for being a complete dumbass with an axle job, but... do you know any P/Ns for these things? I don't know how this stuff even goes together. I've never serviced a car with brakes that come off as part of the hub assembly.
3) Lastly, does anyone have a recommended "gold standard" mud DIY or youtube video for this exact job? I'm still researching right now.
Thank you guys, this forum is magical for a reason.
Ha, old fekkers. I pretend to be wise beyond my years, haha.
I finally bought a proper C-Clip plier that's been a game changer. I actually forget which of the two below are useful on the 100.
I think I bought both after fighting with a clip and have since used them both for a few things. Makes it WAY easier than the super cheap parts store special set I had before.
You'll want a brass drift / hammer for the cone washers. After you fail to get the cone washers off with that recommended tool, you will probably need to progress to an air chisel, haha. I can usually get a cone or two off, but the majority tend to be more stubborn than I am. A very brief and very careful braaaaap of the air chisel will knock those washers loose. I always have a new set of washers handy so provided you don't damage the stud or the face I think the air chisel method is safe enough.
I also needed to use a pry bar to get the old axle pulled out. It's retained into the diff by an expanding clip and it can take a good bit of force to overcome. The service manual states to use a block on the axle, I think, but I have had a few that would not budge no matter how hard I whacked it. This is another case where very careful application of the "wrong" tool seems to work well.
Get yourself the service manual if you don't already have it. The actual physical manual. It details every step and shows you what parts are single use (AKA parts you are required to buy for this job even if they look good on your car). There are multiple torques you need so the manual is a must, IMO.
2001 Lexus LX470 SUV Workshop Shop Service Repair Manual Book Set 4.7L V8 | eBay
This is in very good condition.
www.ebay.com
I assume you have a torque wrench?
I'm sure there's other nice to have tools, but that covers the stuff off the top of my head.
