CV Boots Replaced with directions

[Dirt J]

Looks like NAPA has some that will work too (think those are M14x1.5) NOE 7355953

If you haven't done the other side yet, I would suggest a mini-sledge (I have a 3 lb). One solid whack, and it will release. Lower CA pic for reference -- didn't get pic of upper when I did mine.

EDIT: If you can't get to a store and need it done now, you could grind down the offending ears. You would need to skip those spots when tightening down and re-inserting the cotter pin.

 

[Pyrenees]

The first side popped off fine, I damaged the castle nut on the other side. Lesson learned, flip it over next time. Ok, now I guess I'm going to order flanges so I don't ruin my new axles. I've never done a hub flange or bearings before... here we go down the rabbit hole, LOL. How do I even know if the bearings are worn out? I'm at 191k mi and have all service records since new - there is no mention of anyone ever replacing or lubing the bearings, so now I'm assuming I should just do it while I'm in there. I'll probably just place another order from Toyota and pick up the parts again.

I've got NLGI 2 marine-grade grease in my grease gun (for stuff on the boat). Is it cool to just use that stuff? I've seen a couple references and Mobil 1 synthetic grease and I'm not opposed to buying a tub, I'm just curious how much it really matters.

Edit: found this, looks pretty good (I guess): Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wheel-bearings-service-w-pics.1220608/

Also this series of 3x videos is SUPER helpful for someone like me who knows how to work on a car but has absolutely no idea how all of the pieces in a hub go together:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQgy2usnlD8

Edit 2: I ordered new flanges, gasket, associated bits and pieces, and of course the castle nut. Doing the bearings seems like an unforced step at this point (zero NVH right now, I drive 5k mi a year and this will become the extra car when I find an LC200 or LC250 in the next year or two. I'll do the bearings/races in the future if I need to). Now I just have to make sure I have the right grease. Thanks everyone.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearing grease needs to be high speed rated grease. One's that says "wheel bearing" are.

You may find the links I have under "wheel bearings" in my master thread, helpful:

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Eyedaho]

The first side popped off fine, I damaged the castle nut on the other side. Lesson learned, flip it over next time. Ok, now I guess I'm going to order flanges so I don't ruin my new axles. I've never done a hub flange or bearings before... here we go down the rabbit hole, LOL. How do I even know if the bearings are worn out? I'm at 191k mi and have all service records since new - there is no mention of anyone ever replacing or lubing the bearings, so now I'm assuming I should just do it while I'm in there. I'll probably just place another order from Toyota and pick up the parts again.

I've got NLGI 2 marine-grade grease in my grease gun (for stuff on the boat). Is it cool to just use that stuff? I've seen a couple references and Mobil 1 synthetic grease and I'm not opposed to buying a tub, I'm just curious how much it really matters.

Edit: found this, looks pretty good (I guess): Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wheel-bearings-service-w-pics.1220608/

Also this series of 3x videos is SUPER helpful for someone like me who knows how to work on a car but has absolutely no idea how all of the pieces in a hub go together:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQgy2usnlD8

Edit 2: I ordered new flanges, gasket, associated bits and pieces, and of course the castle nut. Doing the bearings seems like an unforced step at this point (zero NVH right now, I drive 5k mi a year and this will become the extra car when I find an LC200 or LC250 in the next year or two. I'll do the bearings/races in the future if I need to). Now I just have to make sure I have the right grease. Thanks everyone.

Yeah, buy a tub like 2000lc mentions. You'll use a lot to fill the cavities and it's easier to get it out of the tub with your fingies.

The flanges are thirty something bucks from Partsouq I think. And new cone washers and nuts are really cheap if you're placing an order anyway.

 

[Pyrenees]

I'm paranoid about fake parts, I just paid $62/ea for the flanges from Toyota and will pick them up at the parts counter. Yeah, it's more expensive, but the same reason why I got the axles there too. Just wanted to be 100% sure what I was getting.

 

[Eyedaho]

I'm paranoid about fake parts, I just paid $62/ea for the flanges from Toyota and will pick them up at the parts counter. Yeah, it's more expensive, but the same reason why I got the axles there too. Just wanted to be 100% sure what I was getting.

Partsouq is totally legit. There aren't many trustworthy parts sources, but they're on the list for sure.

 

[Pyrenees]

Fair enough, I didn't know. What about toyotapartsdeal? I ordered from them a while back until they screwed something up once, and I ended up going to the local parts desk at that point.

 

[Eyedaho]

Fair enough, I didn't know. What about toyotapartsdeal? I ordered from them a while back until they screwed something up once, and I ended up going to the local parts desk at that point.

I have ordered from them before I think, but Partsouq is my go to unless shipping is crazy. Also the online dealers that have been doing to periodic 20-25% off sales if you have a longer timeframe.

 

[Pyrenees]

Ok, how the heck do you get the new axle into the front differential? I've watched the videos. I don't want to caveman-smash-that-s*** in and ruin the splines or something. During disassembly I was able to yank the old axles out of the diff by heaving on the brake rotor assembly a few times with the top control arm ball joint removed. That went fine. I also installed the new hub flanges and gaskets on both sides and lubed them.

I put the axles (new from Toyota $370/ea) into the new flanges (also from the Toyota parts desk) just fine and got the clip back on, thanks for the tool recommendations on that, it made that easy.

But I keep screwing around with the interface of the axle and the front diff. I have maneuvered the front lower control arm all over the place with my floor jack trying to find the "perfect" spot where I can make the the damn thing go in. It's not in very far, it's still an inch or two out. That's why I don't want to slam it.

I've got this thing up on jack stands and I can get under there. I feel like I'm missing something obvious here, but I don't want to do something dumb either. Thoughts?

 

[Dirt J]

Brass drift around lip. Pic here.

 

[Pyrenees]

Like this? or a different size? Amazon product ASIN B01N5OZFLS

 

[Dirt J]

The one I have is 1/2" diameter. Can wail on it press good without worrying about breaking it.

 

[Pyrenees]

Thanks.

When you use the brass drift, where are you actually hitting the new axle? What lip? Should I hit the axle tip that is protruding from the new flange on the hub or something closer to the axle/diff interface? I tried the former and backed off.

I've got this whole damn job in the bag except this one last step (aside from getting some 80w90 fluid to refill the front diff after some spilled out).

 

[Dirt J]

Brass drift here:

Or grab that thing and shove it in...I know easier said than done.

Make sure the snap ring on end going in diff is facing down (not sure why but that is what FSM and everyone says).

 

[Pyrenees]

Thanks. I wondered about the snap ring orientation. Good call.

 

[Dirt J]

I know you probably don't want to hear this since you it sounds like already have the BJs and TREs on the knuckles, but I found it easier to get the axle seated in the diff BEFORE doing the knuckle work. i.e. work inside-out. You won't have all the weight/resistance on the other end of the CV axle to fight with.

That said, I've seen it don't other way around too. Just more to fuss with it.

 

[Pyrenees]

@dirtj00 No, that sounds like good advice, I agree that I've been fighting against the weight of the assemblies, even with a solid floor jack to prop stuff up. I have ball joint tools/air impact wrench. I just didn't want to remove more stuff than I need to. I can take whatever I need off. I just only had to take off the top ball joint to get the old axles out, but even that was a tight fit. The new axles are stiffer of course.

If I had to pick one for clearance, should I take off the lower ball joint or the tie rod end to help get some room? My gut feeling is to take off the tie rod ends just because they are generally easier than ball joints. As long as I don't screw around with them anyway. It's been a while since I had an alignment so that doesn't matter.

On that note, I ought to mark the tie rod ends and count the revolutions if it gets messy. Damn. Maybe lower ball joints then? Haha. I don't know which is the lesser of two evils here.

 

[Dirt J]

Yeah, start with TRE. And take the snap ring off outer stub and remove stub end of CV from knuckle.

 

[Pyrenees]

Yeah, start with TRE. And take the snap ring off outer stub and remove stub end of CV from knuckle.

Do you mean the snap ring that goes on the outer part of the axle when it goes through the hub flange, or something else? This is my first axle job so despite being well-versed in other automotive repair, I am a total virgin on this job.

 

[Dirt J]

Do you mean the snap ring that goes on the outer part of the axle when it goes through the hub flange, or something else? This is my first axle job so despite being well-versed in other automotive repair.

Correct. I think you'll have an easier time if the axle is free of the knuckle.