CV Boots Replaced with directions (8 Viewers)

[FLJ23]

I ordered the pfran clamps and it seems with time they’ll damage the boots.
Is the tool for the oem clamp that comes with the kit required? Or is there a type of clamp I can use to install the oem clamps?

 

[FLJ23]

I’m sourcing Parts to do this in a couple of weeks.
I’m not understanding where you guys say to mark a line to realign everything back.
Anyone have a pic of what they’re talking about?

 

[2001LC]

Basically the inboard tulip race & cage comes off axle. You want it to go back together with all parts in exact orientation (as they broken-in) they've been in. So mark the alignment/position of each piece as you disassemble. I've had trouble with marks washing off, so I file tiny marks with a dremel.

You may find these links helpful:

• In this thread Post # 57
• This is first my signture. Look in index under "Front Drive shaft" Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series.

 

[FLJ23]

Basically the inboard tulip race & cage comes off axle. You want it to go back together with all parts in exact orientation (as they broken-in) they've been in. So mark the alignment/position of each piece as you disassemble. I've had trouble with marks washing off, so I file tiny marks with a dremel.

View attachment 1865767
View attachment 1865753
You may find these links helpful:

• In this thread Post # 57
• This is first my signture. Look in index under "Front Drive shaft" Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series.

Thanks you i appreciate all the help.



Anyone have part number for the Seals that go on differentials where axle connect to.
The pics I’m seeing online show the one that connect to rotor side.
Also read that I should replace snap ring, but don’t know which one, so if you have a part number for that too, thanks.

 

[TJ Vines]

Thanks you i appreciate all the help.



Anyone have part number for the Seals that go on differentials where axle connect to.
The pics I’m seeing online show the one that connect to rotor side.
Also read that I should replace snap ring, but don’t know which one, so if you have a part number for that too, thanks.

This diagram has all the part #'s. OEM reboot kit comes with 43411B, 43403D, and 43403A. You should order 41336D&E separately. I didn't replace the gasket on the hub side.

 

[FLJ23]

This diagram has all the part #'s. OEM reboot kit comes with 43411B, 43403D, and 43403A. You should order 41336D&E separately. I didn't replace the gasket on the hub side.

View attachment 1870839

Sweet thanks. Appreciate that.
Is 41336D&E is the seal that goes on differential? Or is it part of the axle still?

 

[TJ Vines]

Sweet thanks. Appreciate that.
Is 41336D&E is the seal that goes on differential? Or is it part of the axle still?

Whoops, 41336D&E is actually the dust cover. If you jank this up when removing the drive shaft from the transmission, definitely a good idea to replace. 43410M&H are the gasket seals that interface at the opening of the transmission with the driveshaft. Definitely replace them too.

 

[FLJ23]

Yes that’s the one I was looking for! Thanks a lot

 

[2001LC]

Those are reference number these are the PN #
90311-47013 LH
90311-47027 RH

Use your VIN # when ordering.

 

[aharlan001]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I am nearly done with the second side and things have gone pretty well. My only snag has been forgetting to put matchmarks on. I didn't follow the directions, just went by memory since I had just done the driver side but forgot. MISTAKE!!! agaisin said he had to put it back together without the matchmarks. Obviously the cage and race needs to be oriented correctly which I have done but am I going to have issues since the race/cage/tulip/shaft are not at their previous relative rotational locations? I have 186K on this truck with what appear to be original CV shafts. Thanks!

 

[bucfl]

I put mine back together without the hash marks and have no problems. The bearings had MINOR scratches.

 

[TJ Vines]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I am nearly done with the second side and things have gone pretty well. My only snag has been forgetting to put matchmarks on. I didn't follow the directions, just went by memory since I had just done the driver side but forgot. MISTAKE!!! agaisin said he had to put it back together without the matchmarks. Obviously the cage and race needs to be oriented correctly which I have done but am I going to have issues since the race/cage/tulip/shaft are not at their previous relative rotational locations? I have 186K on this truck with what appear to be original CV shafts. Thanks!

I lost my matchmarks too. I think as long as you do a little physical therapy on the rebuilt drive shaft and it moves well, there shouldn’t be a problem. The FSM outlines how to check cv joint movement.

 

[FLJ23]

Ok guys so I’m doing this now.
I’m putting in the new diff seal on passenger side. But I can’t remember how far back to push it in.
I’m using the dust cover to help push it back in.
Any help?

 

[LXMUTT]

Ok guys so I’m doing this now.
I’m putting in the new diff seal on passenger side. But I can’t remember how far back to push it in.
I’m using the dust cover to help push it back in.
Any help?

Post #169 has your answer

 

[FLJ23]

Post #169 has your answer

Thank you.
I don’t know if it’s because I’m on my phone but I don’t see any post numbers for the posts.

 

[TJ Vines]

I pushed the diff seal so that it sits flush with the axle surface, not any deeper. Used a little lithium-based grease to help it seat. I had some trouble getting it to seat evenly - patience and tapping with anything that could distribute the load as flatly as possible did the trick. I think I ended up using some sort of wood shim laying around as the contact point. Tried using pvc that fit the bill but it kept seating the seal a bit cockeyed. Using the dust cover seems like a good idea though.

Thank you.
I don’t know if it’s because I’m on my phone but I don’t see any post numbers for the posts.

 

[FLJ23]

Does anyone know what this piece is for?
I don’t remember removing that piece from the axles.

 

[TJ Vines]

That’s 43403A above - snap ring that fits on the end on the drive shaft where it enters the diff. I believe the opening needs to be at 6oclock for the drive shaft to seat in the diff.

 

[FLJ23]

That’s 43403A above - snap ring that fits on the end on the drive shaft where it enters the diff. I believe the opening needs to be at 6oclock for the drive shaft to seat in the diff.

Thanks.
I found it out after i looked closely.
I remembered seeing a video about it. But appreciate that.

 

[knewstance]

Btw the ear type clamp that toyota provide for the outer boot, if you don't have this tool there is no way to clamp it. Even with this tool, i had trouble squeezing it, not sure what the clamp is made of but it took a lot of work to close them. The other one is easy, just press down and close the tab.

Not specifically looking for an answer from FxFormat only, but...

Is this tool really the only way to close the clamps? [I'm not really excited about buying what are single-use tools in my mind (i'm optimistic to never need to reboot again lol).] If this is the only way, is there a different clamp type that will work just as well?