awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
CV Boots Replaced with directions
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS
- Start date
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I've had a torn inner boot for a couple (few?) months now. The grease coating the parts surrounding it is pretty thick and nasty now. I've hit the trail a couple times where dirt, etc could have gotten in there. It's possible water could have gotten in, as well, as I believe I've driven in the rain a time or two. Obviously wish I had replaced the boot upon first noticing it, but I haven't had time to deal with it. Is this a scenario where I'm better off just replacing with a whole new CV? I'm leaning that direction.
Seems like I can reboot the old CV and toss it in the rig as a backup for when I inevitably break one on the trail one day.
Seems like I can reboot the old CV and toss it in the rig as a backup for when I inevitably break one on the trail one day.
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Take apart and inspect the bearings and cage. Also make sure there isn’t too much play between the cv splines and flange. If all good, no need to replace, in my opinion.
Don’t forget to order new axle clips that are the correct thickness. They’re cheap.
From post #1
16. Position outboard joint and axle shaft vertically to fill with CV grease (larger tube).
I'm in the middle of this project and was trying to find this info in the FSM, pg SA-33 but didn't see anything. Does anyone have any difinitve info on which boots gets which grease? Given that the outer joint isn't suppose to come apart, shoving grease through the balls/tulip is going to be interesting!
Thanks.
16. Position outboard joint and axle shaft vertically to fill with CV grease (larger tube).
I'm in the middle of this project and was trying to find this info in the FSM, pg SA-33 but didn't see anything. Does anyone have any difinitve info on which boots gets which grease? Given that the outer joint isn't suppose to come apart, shoving grease through the balls/tulip is going to be interesting!
Thanks.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Is there general consensus regarding torque specs of the worm gear style boots clamps? I found myself wondering how tight was tight enough and was worried about damaging them. Thanks.
This helped a bunch. Thanks! I couldn't rent or find a seal press to work... I used my 16oz Yeti koozie insulator and fit perfectly, and survived several wacks with a BFH. Shout out to Yeti and the write up. 
CV's done. Hopefully my highway, acceleration vibration is gone...
CV's done. Hopefully my highway, acceleration vibration is gone...Thoughts on this birfield outer race? It looks like every ball-slot has scarring, but the balls and the inner race all seem to be in normal condition. Unsure if this is an OEM/reman/after market shaft. It was on the passenger side when I bought the LX 470. Previous owner had an extra, this was leaking, so I put the extra in and am now rebuilding this one.
is it worth continuing the rebuild? Was thinking of putting this on my driver's side, and then rebuilding that one (which perhaps I'll move to the passenger side, and use the final one as a spare)
it took quite a bit of force to get the birfield (the outer end) apart. Photo below of how it was able to get it to come apart. Didn't have any steel tube, so an old brake rotor and saw horses did the trick. However, the pin that holds it all together did get mangled very badly (new one on order from Toyota (90521-34005)
is it worth continuing the rebuild? Was thinking of putting this on my driver's side, and then rebuilding that one (which perhaps I'll move to the passenger side, and use the final one as a spare)
it took quite a bit of force to get the birfield (the outer end) apart. Photo below of how it was able to get it to come apart. Didn't have any steel tube, so an old brake rotor and saw horses did the trick. However, the pin that holds it all together did get mangled very badly (new one on order from Toyota (90521-34005)
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yes, those circled areas would be from the ball, and where it would push to drive the axle forward... I'm inclined to do just as you suggest, but I'm also inclined to run it, with the knowledge that I should always pack a spare (of which I do have). Had I not taken it apart, I would have never know there might have been an issue, and I'm going to assume that is the same for many who have rebuilt and then run thousands of issue free miles...
I need to do a little more investigation to see if I flip the axle to the other side, if the balls will be pushing against the opposite side of the slot when moving forward.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Did it make noise before you pulled it? How do the drive splines look where they engage the hub flange? Can you even get it back together? I thought Toyota recommended leaving the outer joint assembled and just removing the boot for cleaning and lubing. Seems like your options are try to get it back together and run it, or replace at least the outboard joint and drive flange and save that one as a spare.
I had a spare, and I pulled this one out probably a year ago (or longer) because the boot was leaking... I don't remember any unusual noises. The splines seem good, and are tight. The star piece won't slip on (or off) without a little force from a dead-blow mallet...
Those wear marks indicate loss of hardening treatment on the inner race. They will make noise, and pit the ball bearings, then wear the cages- which will create more clicking and vibrations- it’s not likely to cause a near term failure but it’s not worth putting money into other than a trail spare
you think that's 1k miles, 5k miles, 10k miles, or more?
Interesting idea switching side. If you don't mind the boot kit, time, labor, seal, snap ring, grease cap and redoing a FDS replacement again. Go for it! Personally I toss in trash.
If cost the issue holding you back. Consider a half shaft, if outer CV good.
If cost the issue holding you back. Consider a half shaft, if outer CV good.
The wear on the internal cup is pretty bad but who knows how much mileage you can get from them- kind of depends on how you drive it and if you offroad it. If the vibes aren’t bothering you, run it till you can’t…
Just make sure of 2 things.
1) You have OEM. One sign is; the center axle step down. (see pic above)
2) Inner CV's; balls, inner & outer races all in very good condition.