CV Boots Replaced with directions

[abuck99]

Fx


I recommend removing the entire knuckle. It will take another 20min. It makes the job much easier getting the axle out and in, and less chance youll damage the spindle bushing, needle bearing with the axle splines trying to get the axle back into the knuckle. Also allows you to clean and regrease the needle bearings, replace ball joint boots if needed.

 

[FxFormat]

Fx


I recommend removing the entire knuckle. It will take another 20min. It makes the job much easier getting the axle out and in, and less chance youll damage the spindle bushing, needle bearing with the axle splines trying to get the axle back into the knuckle. Also allows you to clean and regrease the needle bearings, replace ball joint boots if needed.

Thanks, I should just use this opportunity to repack my bearings and retighten the axel nuts as well, the wheel has some play in it when I was yanking on it. Been working on cars all my life and have never repacked a cv boot, usually we just replace the whole axle, and never touched a 4x4 truck with captive rotors either.

 

[abuck99]

You can dissconnect the abs sensor from the engine compartment fenderwell and leave it attached to the knuckle. Rather than trying to remove it from the knuckle.

Good luck with the project.

 

[FxFormat]

You can dissconnect the abs sensor from the engine compartment fenderwell and leave it attached to the knuckle. Rather than trying to remove it from the knuckle.

Good luck with the project.

Good thing you reminded me about the ABS sensor, there's no way it's getting out of the hub, it's seized and has become one with the unit. D/C from the fender and the two brackets holding it was a much easier thing to do. Also removed the knuckle you suggested, this thing weighs 50lbs or so it seems. After seeing this pic i noticed one of the jackstand is not straight on, it's since been fixed. I have 2x 3ton jack stands to support the front, a 3ton hydraulic jack


to support the cross member, and a wheel under the body for redundancy incase all 3 of the other things collapsed. ebrake on, chocked both wheels. safety first esp working under a 6000lbs vehicle.

Also was able to get the hub flange cone washers off, again, they were seized in there and took a lot of pounding and pb blaster to get them to pop. Inspected the dust cap, looks like the bearing grease are dried up or something.

When i got to the 2 54mm axle nut, they were completely loose, i used my finger to nudge it and it just spun right off, that would explain the little vibration i've been feeling. So glad i decided to tackle this job today, this is the 3rd weekend i've spent working on the truck, i can see the gf looking out the window with disappointment in her eyes.

After i eat lunch i'll crawl underneath the truck and knock the axle out, also does anyone know how to tell if this is an OEM axle or not? Be some crap if i spent all this time and trouble to reboot an Autozone CV lol

 

[FxFormat]

Btw you do not need a pitman arm puller to get any of the joints out, all you need to do is whack the housing with a brass hammer a few times and it'll pop right out.

 

[2001LC]

Looks OEM but can see that well. Perhaps these picture will help.

 

[FxFormat]

Uh oh how do you put the little balls back into the cage? I’m having a tough time trying to see how this goes back. Any tips or tricks?

 

[abuck99]

LOL- I don't remember having a problem with that but I don't remember what I did. You'll figure it out.

When you go to insert the CV, be sure that you have installed the new snap ring on the end of the axle- don't reuse the old one. @2001LC posted earlier, the process to put a dab of grease on it to hold it in place, and wiggle the axle splines slightly back & forth into the diff to get hem lined up- being sure to keep the snapping opening at 6 O'clock. Make a reference mark 180 opposite so you can keep track of the snap ring position. Once the axle is lined up an in the diff, you can hold the axle and give it a coulee 3-4 good shoves and it should lock into the diff.

 

[FxFormat]

Okay I figured it out, the balls don’t go inside of the cage they just rest in the openings, the recesses part of the inner axel housing keeps them in place. Hard to keep them from falling out so I put a crap on of grease on them and they stayed put. I just completed my reboot. hope the clamps were tight and no vibrations when I drive. Now to put the axel back in and bolt everything back up.

 

[FxFormat]

Finished with everything and repacked bearings on both sides as well, the axle nuts were so loose i'm surprised the wheel spun. Somebody was definitely in there before, i see imperfections in the rings and nuts.

Btw the ear type clamp that toyota provide for the outer boot, if you don't have this tool there is no way to clamp it. Even with this tool, i had trouble squeezing it, not sure what the clamp is made of but it took a lot of work to close them. The other one is easy, just press down and close the tab.

It helps to have a wood clamp to keep the clamp down while you fold the metal tabs to keep it in place. When doing this, it helps to have 20 pairs of latex gloves ready, i had to keep switching gloves when the grease or dirt got on the pair. This way you don't contaminate anything and you have some grip with fresh gloves.

Dumped the whole tube of grease inside the boot, i'm supposed to right? Put the CV joint back in, it took a few shoves to get it to pop in place.

Putting the knuckle on was god awful, but it did make removing and installing the axle a lot easier. Total time i spent to reboot 1 axle and repack both bearings was 8 hours. Next time around this will be cut in half. Cone washers were seized and i had to go buy a snap ring plier for the snap rings.

 

[abuck99]

Cudos FX,

Always takes longer first time you do this job. The other side will go faster for sure.

Its a be-atch to get the boot clamp crimped to FSM spec with that tool you have- but it is designed to put long handle wratchets in the tool to create more squeezing leverage.

 

[FxFormat]

Cudos FX,

Always takes longer first time you do this job. The other side will go faster for sure.

Its a be-atch to get the boot clamp crimped to FSM spec with that tool you have- but it is designed to put long handle wratchets in the tool to create more squeezing leverage.

Oh i was wondering what the two squares were on the handle were, make sense now...i squeezed it as hard as i could, there's still maybe a 1mm gap between the two sides, maybe i'll get two 1/2" breaker bars and clamp it shut next time. I just went for a drive on the highway, i lock to lock steering wheel several times trying to get the CV to stress, even did 85mph on the way home. Went to inspect the clamp area, so far so good, no grease leaking out.

Thanks you everyone on this thread who contributed their pics and tips, definitely made my day easier. I can't wait for the driver's side to leak so i can reboot that too. It's good for now.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Just finished another 100 series reboot and bearing repack this time. Updated the original 1st post to reflect more info that was learned. On this one the ABS sensors didn't want to remove so I just left them in and I also ended up removing the lower ball joints. Not sure how the heck I did this the first time without doing so. BTW, the original 99 Lexus's boots have performed flawlessly since the posting of this some 7 1/2 years ago. The McMaster Carr clamps have performed great as well with no leaks or balance issues.

 

[KiteOregon]

So i took this on this weekend. Driver CV boot was leaking, I also did the upper control arm bushings, ball joint as well as the lower control arm ball joint and steering rack ends.

I have 2 issues now that it's back together, first i am getting some binding under full turn, the tire is not catching, so it must be in the axle. I also have a nice differential leak. I replaced the seal, but something did not work. I am going to tear it back apart, but to see if i can figure out the binding.

Any ideas?

 

[KiteOregon]

Found why the differential seal was leaking. There was a small scare, when i inserted the new seal it tore a small cut right through the new seal. Don't know how i missed that the first time.

Now to tear back into the inner side and see if i mess something there, I can't think of anything else that would cause a bind.

 

[2001LC]

Not being inserted and seated all the way in differential, "may" (not will) cause binding & leak.

 

[SouthJerseyJim]

Hey guys am I missing something? I priced out the set of CVs from AZ for 150$ limited lifetime warranty. Anyone go this route?

 

[abuck99]

At that price they are not OEM you’d be closer to $700 for both at discounted Toyota prices.

This is one of those cases where the the OEM part is vastly superior. The aftermarket CVs maybe ok for street use, but will not hold up to offroad demands. Lots of reports of balance and vibration issues, difficult install and quick failure. The overall fit is not always exact <->, the precision of how the splines mesh up in the diff and flange are often sloppy leading to driveline backlash, the design and strength of the AM component is generally inferior ( 3 bearing cage vs 6 bearing) etc.

Lifetime warranty is fine, but it is a kind if a pita to swap these in & out.

 

[SouthJerseyJim]

Its much easier to swap in a 75$ axle then it is to rebuilt one. I just can't justify the OEM cost. I'm a big fan of factory parts, was a tech for 10 years but some things I think people over think and evaluate. Learned the other day the shocks you buy from autozone are the same as the shocks you buy from OME, just rebadged.

 

[bucfl]

Not sure I’d go so cheap. But I agree with regreasing job. I did it once and hated all the mess. I had to do the PS and I bought a OEM reman for $115 from dealer. No way I’m doing that again.