CV Boots Replaced with directions (1 Viewer)

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Here is the wear on the inboard splines where it enters the axle tube:

IMG_5929.JPG


The hub end looks better to me:

IMG_5930.JPG


This looks like discoloration from heat (around the outside of the bearings). Is it normal?:

IMG_5931.JPG
 
Finally, here is the wear on the cage:

IMG_5921.JPG


IMG_5922.JPG


And on the edges of the cylinder:

IMG_5928.JPG


Please let me know what you think.

This truck is new to me, 140k, and has needed a lot of work. I'm starting to get a bit of fatigue from it but I still consider this all baseline work and I'm hoping to get it done right so I don't have to mess with it for a while.
 
Your splines look rounded, gapped, and chipped from being rammed into the diff. The discoloration is from manufacturing process, not a heat problem. The bearing cages look a little rough. Were you getting any driveline vibes on acceleration, and clicking or popping on slow turns? Check for remarkable play- especially the outboard joint.


FWIW $710 +/- gets you 2 brand new Toyota OEM CV axles. Another $100 +/- for flanges, and $50~100 for related hardware: cone washers, nuts, washers, flange gaskets, lock nuts, locking tab washers, thrust washers, new end caps etc. If you are planning to keep the truck- replace the CVs and related hardware and enjoy the fresh ride.
 
Thanks for the reply abuck, I wasn't getting clicking or popping. I was getting a grinding/grating sound under no load (coast) that became a squeal until it went away when I pulled my drive shaft. There was play in the pinion flange and there were leaks from right axle seal and pinion seal. I pulled the cvs because I'm going to rebuild my front diff and I thought I might as well check it all out.

This thread:

Hello all,

I'm pretty new here but I've been lurking for years and since I'm finally in a cruiser I thought I'd contribute. I've read all the threads about older weak diffs and catastrophic failure but I may I have a newer one just dying from neglect. I'll track it as I investigate and update here. FYI I'm a complete novice mechanic so this will all be new to me.

My truck is an LX470 with just over 140k. I bought it at 131k in mid May from a Lexus dealer just as I was about to sell my house in Minnesota and take off with my family to Maine and then across again to our new home in southern Oregon. Took it to a Napa garage for fluid changes (diffs, trans, steering, brake, engine oil, etc.) and they told me the fluids all looked pretty ugly. Also the charcoal canister was shot. And the steering rack was leaking. A few grand later I was on my way and she drove great with new 33" ko2s, except that I noticed the water pump leaking coolant. The next seven thousand miles or so were uneventful until about a week after we arrived in OR.

Just before we arrived here I started to notice fluid dripping under the front skid plate. Then, I was driving about 65 on I-5 and a grinding noise came from the front end. I've since determined that it comes when I take my foot off the accelerator but it lessens when I brake, so it comes when not under load. It doesn't seem to be affected by turning or by changes in RPM. When I first heard it the noise was so loud I drove straight to the local Toyota dealership. They told me my front right axle seal was shot and diff fluid was low. Claim there was dye in the fluid. They replaced the seal and the fluid for an arm and a leg. They told me there were metal shavings in the oil (but can't tell me if it was an unusual amount) and that if the problem wasn't solved I should replace 'the whole diff, housing and all' for over $3k.

Grinding was much less now but continued. I had Toyota replace my water pump, timing belt, serpentine, tensioners, pulleys, hoses, etc. and they told me again I need a new 'front axle assembly' or else I'll die on the highway when it seizes up. Jamister1 kindly offered to help me diagnose it but after my truck sat for a week I couldn't get it to come back so I bowed out. It was replaced by a squeal that sounded like a squeaky belt. Now, the grinding has come back and the squeal is growing more persistent. Especially under load or while turning it seems.

I'm afraid it is front diff worn from years of running old fluid, then low fluid after the seal finally blew. But I'm hoping it might just be u-joints. I'll try to pull the front drive shaft tomorrow and inspect and hope that stops it. Maybe I'll get lucky.

As far as I know, the cvs are operating properly but since it's all apart I figure I might as well get them in top shape so I can start fresh. Do you feel there's a big advantage (longevity or robustness) to new oem over CVJ? I haven't gotten a price from CVJ yet.
 
Thanks for the reply abuck, I wasn't getting clicking or popping. I was getting a grinding/grating sound under no load (coast) that became a squeal until it went away when I pulled my drive shaft. There was play in the pinion flange and there were leaks from right axle seal and pinion seal. I pulled the cvs because I'm going to rebuild my front diff and I thought I might as well check it all out.

This thread:



As far as I know, the cvs are operating properly but since it's all apart I figure I might as well get them in top shape so I can start fresh. Do you feel there's a big advantage (longevity or robustness) to new oem over CVJ? I haven't gotten a price from CVJ yet.
I don't know exactly what CVJ does to the axle other than rebooting and greasing. You might inquire with them. I know there is no way to refresh the axle splines so depending on how good yours are compared to ones you'll exchange for could be better or worse.

Choosing a refurbed CVJ axle, or a Autozone knock off over brand new OEM would be a budgetary decision for a short term fix (IMO). If plan to keep your 100 for a few years, pony up and spend the extra funds to buy new OEM axles. You won't regret it.
 
I would not hesitate to call CVJ, they were very helpful when i needed some answers. I maybe refreshing my CV's next year and will be using them.
 
Buy OEM- there is no substitute for the fit, durability and material quality of the OEM boots.

Boot kit includes inner & outer boots, premeasured grease for both tulips, snap rings, band clamps, for around $50 per side
 
I went ahead and ordered new oem drive shafts and flanges but I'm keeping my worn aftermarket one as an emergency spare (it wasn't giving me any problems but it was out anyway to pull the diff so....). I plan to get a reboot kit from Cruiser Outfitters so its freshened up and ready to go. I already have their wheel bearing kit.

I also have an oem reman driveshaft that I pulled from the other side. Same situation: it gave me no problems but is showing signs of wear. I'll likely put it for sale or see if CVJ will take it as a core. Otherwise, I'll reboot that one as well for another spare.
 
Buy OEM- there is no substitute for the fit, durability and material quality of the OEM boots.

Boot kit includes inner & outer boots, premeasured grease for both tulips, snap rings, band clamps, for around $50 per side


What’s a good place to get oem boots from? I’m looking on eBay and Amazon and I can’t tell which ones are oem, they all say oem lol.
 
@FxFormat
Here's a few good East coast options. McGeorge is in VA so you'll have tax to deal with but they stock fast moving parts so they might have them in stock for same day shipping.

Here's the part #: BOOT KIT - TOYOTA (04427-60120)

parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com
 
@FxFormat
Here's a few good East coast options. McGeorge is in VA so you'll have tax to deal with but they stock fast moving parts so they might have them in stock for same day shipping.

Here's the part #: BOOT KIT - TOYOTA (04427-60120)

parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com
Awesome, thanks for that. I’ll order today and try to knock it out this weekend.
 
I always price check between McGeorge and Camelback. McGeorge is usually cheaper but Camelback has free shipping. It's often within a few dollars between the two.
 
@FxFormat
Here's a few good East coast options. McGeorge is in VA so you'll have tax to deal with but they stock fast moving parts so they might have them in stock for same day shipping.

Here's the part #: BOOT KIT - TOYOTA (04427-60120)

parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com


Kinda confused after looking at the part, am i getting both the inner and outer boots? Does it come with clamps as well?
 
Kinda confused after looking at the part, am i getting both the inner and outer boots? Does it come with clamps as well?
That should be the whole kit for servicing one axle: inner & outer boots, premeasured grease for inner & outer tulips, axle snap ring, locking ring, band clamps for each axle.


Reference everything inside 04438

IMG_0436.JPG
 
That should be the whole kit for servicing one axle: inner & outer boots, premeasured grease for inner & outer tulips, axle snap ring, locking ring, band clamps for each axle.


Reference everything inside 04438

View attachment 1556271


Awesome, thanks again. Will order now.
 
I'm tackling this job tomorrow, from this pic someone posted

imageuploadedbyih8mud-forum1434569039-742674-jpg.1094075



Do you not need to remove the hub flange and the two 54mm axle nut and lock rings to get the cv axle out? I thought they were all stuck together. I haven't really opened up the hub flanges yet nor do i want to, last time i pounded the crap out of the thing and the damn cone washer refuse to pop out.
 
Last edited:
Nope. Dust cap and lock ring and I think it pretty much pulls out as long as you pull your upper ball joint and have room to swing the hub to get clearance. The inner you only need to pry a little bit - be careful of the dust shield.
 

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