CV Boots Replaced with directions

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Its much easier to swap in a 75$ axle then it is to rebuilt one. I just can't justify the OEM cost. I'm a big fan of factory parts, was a tech for 10 years but some things I think people over think and evaluate. Learned the other day the shocks you buy from autozone are the same as the shocks you buy from OME, just rebadged.
By all means go for the budget axles. I was merely pointing out that the differences are significant enough to consider. Post back up after your install, and after youve driven it a few hundred miles at hwy speeds and give your feedback.
 
Its much easier to swap in a 75$ axle then it is to rebuilt one. I just can't justify the OEM cost. I'm a big fan of factory parts, was a tech for 10 years but some things I think people over think and evaluate. Learned the other day the shocks you buy from autozone are the same as the shocks you buy from OME, just rebadged.
Speaking from experience: Way back when I replaced the original CV units w/ non-OEM, any speed about 62mph came with a vibration. We rebalanced tires, removed and sent the shafts out for balancing, replaced wheel bearings... all w/ no change.
Replaced the non-OEM w/ OEM. Vibration gone.
Doesn't matter if you go off-road or not. The non-OEM may work, but if they don't it's a whole lotta work to find out.
Go OEM. The vehicle is worth the expense.
 
Speaking from experience: Way back when I replaced the original CV units w/ non-OEM, any speed about 62mph came with a vibration. We rebalanced tires, removed and sent the shafts out for balancing, replaced wheel bearings... all w/ no change.
Replaced the non-OEM w/ OEM. Vibration gone.
Doesn't matter if you go off-road or not. The non-OEM may work, but if they don't it's a whole lotta work to find out.
Go OEM. The vehicle is worth the expense.

X2, this is well documented. Don't cheap out on the CV shaft. Toyota OEM CV shaft still the best. PDPerry experience cost him way more money (opportunity cost), frustration, time than putting OEM shaft at the first place.
 
it looks like I was a little too careless with my driver side diff seal. Is there any special tool needed to remove the seal or do I simply get my finger in there and pull it out?
 
it looks like I was a little too careless with my driver side diff seal. Is there any special tool needed to remove the seal or do I simply get my finger in there and pull it out?

Maybe hard to remove with your finger. A seal puller like this will make the job easier: about $10-15
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Screw driver will work as well; but with either tool be very carful to not scrape the bearing race surface; which can easily happen.
 
ok thanks guys. I do have various sizes of small pry bars. maybe i'll try that with a shop rag wrapped around it.
 
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Piece of wood or metal will protect better than a rag. But damage of rim is usually not issue. Just keep pray bar end that's in seal away from inner parts seal seat area
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Use grease lube to seat seal.
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Use grease on lip of seal to seat Front drive shaft and point new snap ring open end down.
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Hi,

Do you have the part number for the oil seals where the CV joints connect to the front diff?
Are they left or right specific?
 
Yes they're side specific.
Look through "2007 Unicorn" link in my signture. In its OP you'll find and index leading you to front differential and front drive shafts. You'll see these seals and parts numbers.
 
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I replaced both outer CV shafts this weekend, and PS cage/balls seemed different than DS. They didn’t fall out once c-clip was removed from the tulip, and actually had to give them a nudge with rubber mallet to get them out of the cage. Same for reassembly. They look smooth, and no visible damage to cage...but I heard a couple knocks right after first starting out on shakedown drive. Fine since, but not confidence-inspiring. I should have just ponied up for the full shaft. Anyone else have this issue?
 
Just re-booted my drivers side CV and this thread was a lifesaver!

I did learn a couple of lessons, definitely replace the diff seal. Especially if your vehicle is almost 20 years old. Installed the CV with the old seal and it leaked gear oil.

I bought a new seal, put it in, and fluid was still leaking......So apart it went again. I realized that I drove the new diff seal all the way back instead of just inside of the lip. I tried to get the seal out without damaging it, but no luck.

After waiting 2 days prime shipping for a new OEM seal I put it all back together with NO LEAKS!

Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread!
 

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