CV Boots Replaced with directions (7 Viewers)

[Roosevelt T]

Where are you guys getting your CV axles from for $350? My local shop is getting quoted $540 per axle from the dealer.

I bought reman's from CVJ axle, I think they were 180 per or so... But don't quote me it was a year ago. They are recommended here on the forum and I've had zero issues.

 

[TurbineTester]

I just got off the phone with them. They said standard with neoprene boot is $119 plus $95 core. To add the toyota boot is $75 per axle.

 

[bucfl]

My dealer sales remans for $180. Even for a few bucks more its worth not having to wait on shipping and if any issues occur they are right there.

 

[TurbineTester]

$180 seems like good price/source for a dealer reman. Even though i have 219,000 miles, I don't currently have any issues with the CV's other than torn boots. I'm entertaining the thought of just remaning them myself with a boot kit. Where is the current favorite location/website to buy the boot kits from?

EDIT: I just called my local dealer and they carry factory reman for $190.39 per side and boot kits for $56.69.


Edit 2:
Should I reboot or buy remanufactured Axles?

 

[bucfl]

I can tell you when i did mine it was a total mess, grease everywhere. Dont think i would do it again. Wasted all day and into the night. But you may be savvier.

Next time im just buying remans.

 

[2001LC]

Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online

 

[TurbineTester]

Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online

Well there you go, not all online parts dealers are created equal or selling parts for the same price, imagine that! $354 for anyone who wants to save a click.

 

[Roosevelt T]

$180 seems like good price/source for a dealer reman. Even though i have 219,000 miles, I don't currently have any issues with the CV's other than torn boots. I'm entertaining the thought of just remaning them myself with a boot kit. Where is the current favorite location/website to buy the boot kits from?

EDIT: I just called my local dealer and they carry factory reman for $190.39 per side and boot kits for $56.69.


Edit 2:
Should I reboot or buy remanufactured Axles?

When installing the passenger side, my buddy and I ripped the inner boot. I taped it and waited... didn't take too long to spew axle grease.

So this time around I got a boot kit and did the inner passenger side boot myself. It obviously took longer but was not hard at all. If you have the free time and wanna save a few bucks, its not bad (IMHO).

The big tip I would give anyone doing this is do not rely on using wood on the lip of the passenger side axle to get it back into the diff, that is NOT happening in my experience. It took forever to get the passenger side in the first time I did it. This time I had a brass punch laying around, so I tried that. It took about 10 hits and the axle was in. It did not damage the lip at all.

 

[2001LC]

I used to use the log or brass dowel to pound in the DS, until I found easy faster way!

Easiest way to seat axle in differential, is to pop in the drive shaft (DS) using its own in and out action of inner CV.

1. Grease new snap ring to hold in place open end down.
2. Grease lip of seal
3. Gently guid inner axle of DS into differential and seal, using slight twisting motion to mesh teeth of axle.
4. At this point DS inner axle will still need to go in about 1/2" to seat. While holding inner CV tulip in place, push outer axle with a forceful and quick action to pop inward. Sometimes it seats first try, ohter times it takes a few pops.

Note: if replacing seal, lube it with gear lube to seat.

 

[2001LC]

Few things about rebuilds one needs to be aware of:

1. Always pay the extra for OEM boots, they'll last 10 times longer.
2. The teeth of axles are always worn. So even with a new HUB flange you'll have some play.

NEW OEM front drive shafts should be paired with new:

1. Diff tube LH & RH seals,
2. Inner (diff) and outer (hub flange) snap rings. Note: inner snap ring comes with new OEM FDS.
3. Hub flange.
4. Cone washers.

 

[TurbineTester]

So with this method, you essentially replace the brass drift and BFH with the mass of the center and outboard sections of the axle and slap it against the inboard tulip housing, correct? In your video it seems to seat with one firm, but not overly aggressive, motion. Other folsk on this thread seemed to have to apply MUCH more force...

 

[2001LC]

So with this method, you essentially replace the brass drift and BFH with the mass of the center and outboard sections of the axle and slap it against the inboard tulip housing, correct? In your video it seems to seat with one firm, but not overly aggressive, motion. Other folsk on this thread seemed to have to apply MUCH more force...

You got it!

That was a new OEM FDS & Snap ring. Sometime it takes a few pops. Key is have FDS in line so force is squarely on axle and snap ring. All we're really doing, is popping in the snap ring. It holds the FDS inner axle in place. Remember to pull on FDS to make sure it seats and will not come out. As you saw in video, I like to look to make sure it's seated.


Remember new inner snap ring open end down greased in place and grease the seal lip. Take care to not bend the dust shield on each end.

 

[2001LC]

BTW rebooting is not that bad of a job. It takes a lot of time to get grease a out of the outer tulip (CV). I use petroleum solvent, water based solvent w/rust inhibitor, water from hose end sprayer and HP air. It usually takes 7 cleanings until it runs clear and it must be spotless before adding the new grease.

But if any remarkable play in CV's or wear in axle teeth/grooves (use new hub flange to test) it is well worth just replacing FDS, seal, hub flange and cone washer.

First time I did replaced FDS assembly, along with front differential bushing and stabilizer frt & rear bushing I was amazed at how it drove. So cool!

 

[Saul Abel]

Great write up! A few observations: My axle came with yellow/tan on the outer and grey/silver on the inner. The two grease packs provided in the boot kit from Toyota were both yellow/tan. One pack is larger than the other. The larger pack is slightly thicker. I called toyota for clarification and asked where the yellow/tan grease goes to which they replied "inner." Well, both are yellow/tan. After additional research, I agreed with the thinner is inner principle. So, I put the smaller tube (thinner) on the inner joint. Also, should mention to use the entire pack of grease on each joint per YOTA recommend.

 

[bmw635]

RTH- putting the bearing cage in for the inner boot toward diff and realize I may have forgot the orientation of the cage.

IIRC, the cage is tapered in toward the diff but write up#18 says tapered to outside? Can someone confirm? TIA.

18. Slide inboard boot over shaft, then cage, note cage direction (smaller end goes first).

 

[2001LC]

 

[bmw635]

Sweet, inner cage tapered outward. Thank you sir.

 

[TJ Vines]

Merry Christmas! I am doing an inboard boot at the moment and am concerned that the tulip snap ring is not doing it’s job. IIRC when dissembling, it stopped the cage from completely leaving the tulip and dropping bearings. Assembling now and the cage and bearings just slide right past the tulip snap ring. No interference at all.

Many thanks to the thread.

 

[FLJ23]

Do you have a list of all parts needed for the reboot kit? 2001 Lx470.
I’m seeing there’s an inner and outer reboot kit.
Maybe I’m looking at wrong one.
Thanks.

 

[trdcorolla]

Per the search it's part number 04427 - 60120. I should have this in my garage, I purchased it because my boot was leaking a little when I bought my 100. When I went to have it rebooted by a friend, he opened the kit and when he saw the size of the clamp it came with, he already has some, so he just replaced the clamp with what he already had in stock. If you were closer to me, I could sell it to you (if you needed one open box/bag kit).