Aaah if you are in there.. u might as well replace the differential-CV seal... else if it leaks you'll be doing this all over again. I should't have to say it but use the OEM seal.
Do it once, Do it right.
CV Boots Replaced with directions (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS
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Aaah if you are in there.. u might as well replace the differential-CV seal... else if it leaks you'll be doing this all over again. I should't have to say it but use the OEM seal.
Do it once, Do it right.
When you say diff-cv seal, you mean the following one, right? If so, yes, I'm replacing it with the OE one.
What I was asking is the seal in the spindle, not the diff-cv one.. Wasn't sure if the channels on the surface was expected. However judging by its shape, I believe it is what it is.Just to confirm, the channel on the bearing seal is expected, right? My first thought was "damn......"
By the way, how could I grease the needle bearing inside the spindle?
View attachment 3466391
Pyrenees
SILVER Star
Ok folks, I need some help again. What ball joint separator do you use for this car? I have a pickle fork but it's either garbage or I'm doing it wrong. I have tried using the Schwaben ball joint tool (+ air impact wrench) that I bought for my BMW, and it was able to get the UCA ball joints off but I cannot get the TREs or LCA ball joints out, and I fear for damaging stuff. I think I simply need a larger ball joint separator than the one I have. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
Just to confirm the large hammer really worked. I used 2.5 lb hammer and 5-6 really hard punches did the work.
Thanks for the tip!
Pyrenees
SILVER Star
Thanks everyone for the help. That job was a nightmare, but after trying a lot of various things, here are my observations regarding replacing the front axles:
1) most of this can be done by one person, but there are some steps that really require two people.
2) I had to remove the tie rod ends, the lower control arm ball joints and the upper control arm ball joints from the steering/rotor assembly (which is extremely heavy).
3) put all the grease on the inner splines and position the clip with the open end down. It took me like 10 tries to get the inner splines/clip popped in correctly.
4) various steps of this job absolutely require the use of a floor jack if the car is up on jack stands for this. No way I could have done it otherwise.
5) When you pull the old axles out, about a half a quart of front differential fluid is going to spill out. It is 80w90. Grab a bottle to top it off.
6) there was no point in trying to put the axle into the hub flange first and try to pop it into the diff correctly by jamming the steering/rotor assembly into it after the fact. It never fully went in that way. Put the diff end of the axle in first and reassemble the outer pieces around it.
7) put a piece of wood between the metal outer axle seal thingy and the steering assembly that it will naturally rest on. If you don't, that metal edge will get dented inward. I learned this the hard way when I could not get the splines far enough through the hub flange to get the clip ring on. I bent the edge back out where it was dented, and the splines went all of the way through.
8) the good quality clip ring pliers were worth it.
9) I'm glad this is over.
1) most of this can be done by one person, but there are some steps that really require two people.
2) I had to remove the tie rod ends, the lower control arm ball joints and the upper control arm ball joints from the steering/rotor assembly (which is extremely heavy).
3) put all the grease on the inner splines and position the clip with the open end down. It took me like 10 tries to get the inner splines/clip popped in correctly.
4) various steps of this job absolutely require the use of a floor jack if the car is up on jack stands for this. No way I could have done it otherwise.
5) When you pull the old axles out, about a half a quart of front differential fluid is going to spill out. It is 80w90. Grab a bottle to top it off.
6) there was no point in trying to put the axle into the hub flange first and try to pop it into the diff correctly by jamming the steering/rotor assembly into it after the fact. It never fully went in that way. Put the diff end of the axle in first and reassemble the outer pieces around it.
7) put a piece of wood between the metal outer axle seal thingy and the steering assembly that it will naturally rest on. If you don't, that metal edge will get dented inward. I learned this the hard way when I could not get the splines far enough through the hub flange to get the clip ring on. I bent the edge back out where it was dented, and the splines went all of the way through.
8) the good quality clip ring pliers were worth it.
9) I'm glad this is over.
I had a boot clamp go bad and needed to replace the grease since it was contaminated. For what it's worth I've switched to the worm drive clamps from Cruiser Garage. Over 6 months in now with no leaks. I got a full reboot kit from Cruiser Outfitters. It came with four tubes of grease. I didn't do a bunch of research before squeezing the first tube into the inboard tulip after a full disassemble and clean out. I saw, "use the small tube" in the first page of instructions here so I went with that. This won't apply to all situations. My kit came with moly based grease, which I learned is used in the outer joint, and the yellow grease used in the inboard joint in three different sizes. I also read the inner joint gets more grease than the outer. Unfortunately, I put some of the yellow grease (big tube) on the black grease (small tube) already in the tulip. Imagine my surprise when the second tube squeezed out a different color. I was able to save most of the glob and start over, but lost the tube of moly and my time in research and starting over with cleaning the joint out. So, lesson learned and I wanted to share my hardship for others. I'll post pics of the part numbers and what I assume is the correct amount of grease for each joint. If I'm wrong and you have experience with this feel free to correct my post. This is what I found through my research and process of elimination.
1. Grease mix. Don't do this.
2. Black Moly Grease - Outboard 240g total - Tube one (130g) Tube Two (110g)
3. Yellow CV Grease - Inboard (300g total - Two tubes (150g each)
1. Grease mix. Don't do this.
2. Black Moly Grease - Outboard 240g total - Tube one (130g) Tube Two (110g)
3. Yellow CV Grease - Inboard (300g total - Two tubes (150g each)
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Welp, s***. Both of my inside boots just ripped at the same time after a couple of years right at the band clamps. The other joints are all using the OEM style clamps, so that's interesting. Possible I tightened the band clamps too much? IDK, I guess something to watch out for. This happened on strictly highway driving. Anyways, I need to replace the inside boots now, are there any special tools required to use 1 of these? Looks like the yellow maybe doesn't? Thanks for the guidance.
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TexLexican
SILVER Star
The yellow one requires a crimping sort of tool. I bought one from NAPA that was a POS and resembled pliers, but forget why typical pliers didn’t work as well. Pretty sure on this thread I mentioned them last year.
The POS pliers I bought didn't work well either. I ended up experimenting and realized a PEX crimping tool I had might work and it did. I think I have this one: Apollo 3/8 in. to 1 in. 1-Hand PEX-B Pinch Clamp Tool 69PTBJ0010C - The Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-8-in-to-1-in-1-Hand-PEX-B-Pinch-Clamp-Tool-69PTBJ0010C/301921125
I curious, as to which clamps you have/had, that rip the boots? Pictures?
I'll take some pics when I work on it this weekend. Both rips are next to the clamps. It was the PFRAN clamp set.
I bought two tools off amazon, hopefully between the two I'm able to get some decent clamping done. Will report back after I use them.
Amazon product ASIN B0B76C5WNY
Amazon product ASIN B0BTYHQQZ3
Amazon product ASIN B0B76C5WNY
Amazon product ASIN B0BTYHQQZ3
Let us know how that goes
See post #222 - the first tool listed from OTC is a good tool. Be sure to look up the correct gap specification to set your crimp - found in the FSM-
forum.ih8mud.com
CV Boots Replaced with directions
If you use the standard or OEM clamps then yes. Otherwise you can buy worm gear clamps. I believe @pfran42 sells them. Very good quality! Or any local auto parts store should carry them.
forum.ih8mud.com
I said F-it and used the silver clamps, I had a damn hard time trying to get the yellow one on the small end of the inboard boot. The silver ones were a breeze to use and kinda of dummy proof, which I need when I'm 2 pints deep and 2 hours in.
Speaking of dummy, it's possible I torqued the worm clamps too much and shot myself in the foot here. Probably best practice to just go snug, then only tighten more if you start seeping out.
Speaking of dummy, it's possible I torqued the worm clamps too much and shot myself in the foot here. Probably best practice to just go snug, then only tighten more if you start seeping out.
How long do we need to wait (if at all) before rebooting and repacking grease into the outboard end of the CV after cleaning it? I sprayed pretty good in there with about half a can of parts cleaner.
The consistency of the old grease went from goopy to somewhat more liquidy, and I dabbed up whatever dripped out with paper towels.
I guess I'm just worried if there's solvent still trapped in there, will it ruin the consistency of the new grease?
I guess I'm just worried if there's solvent still trapped in there, will it ruin the consistency of the new grease?
I would use compressed air in conjunction with the parts cleaner to push as much out of the birf as possible. Or do repeated plunges in parts cleaner then compressed air. YMMV
