CV Boots Replaced with directions (3 Viewers)

[Eyedaho]

@dirtj00 No, that sounds like good advice, I agree that I've been fighting against the weight of the assemblies, even with a solid floor jack to prop stuff up. I have ball joint tools/air impact wrench. I just didn't want to remove more stuff than I need to. I can take whatever I need off. I just only had to take off the top ball joint to get the old axles out, but even that was a tight fit. The new axles are stiffer of course.

If I had to pick one for clearance, should I take off the lower ball joint or the tie rod end to help get some room? My gut feeling is to take off the tie rod ends just because they are generally easier than ball joints. As long as I don't screw around with them anyway. It's been a while since I had an alignment so that doesn't matter.

On that note, I ought to mark the tie rod ends and count the revolutions if it gets messy. Damn. Maybe lower ball joints then? Haha. I don't know which is the lesser of two evils here.

I'm pretty sure I have swapped FDS/CV by just turning the steering to full lock towards the opposite side, but I can't remember for sure. I may have also had the upper BJ separated. Of course best practice would be to remove all of the things, but ain't nobody got time for that!

 

[Pyrenees]

@Eyedaho turning the steering didn't even occur to me. Yet another good suggestion. Ordered a 3-piece brass drift/punch set, should be arriving tomorrow. By then I should have the patience to deal with this again haha.

 

[2001LC]

When installing FDS. It's important that NEW snap ring be positioned open end down and centered on axle. I use grease to hold snap ring in place. We want to always use a new snap for a few reasons. One being they get damaged/marred each time installed/removed. They then tend to get hung up on mar, making installing axle that last ~ inch more difficult. Also important, is to grease the inner lip of diff side seal. Use great care to not bump seal with FDS.

They actually go in without much resistance, if above procedure followed. It is easier, when steering knuckle off, but do-able with kunckle on.

A few techniques I've used for last inch, knuckle on:

• With UBJ released. Use knuckle, by grabbing it near top as a leaver. With force, drive inward with a snapping motion. Works best, with LCA raised high. A lifted rig, may want to back off T-bar to get LCA higher.
• Hit outer end of axle with heavy wooden block.
• Dive in from below, hitting lip of inner CV of front drive shaft with brass dowel.

Here's just how easy, knuckle off. A FDS will pop in diff. Grease and position of new snap ring is key. Also note: Having FDS straight and parallel with diff, will put all force squarely into seating it.


Damaged inner snap ring.

New inner snap ring, showing open before setting with open end down and centering.

 

[Pyrenees]

@2001LC you're a sage around here.

Thanks everyone for the tips. Guess it comes down to me tomorrow.

 

[Eyedaho]

@2001LC you're a sage around here.

Thanks everyone for the tips. Guess it comes down to me tomorrow.

 

[Dirt J]

 

[leveeguy]

After inserting axle in and lining it up, I pushed the axles straight into front diff with some force my last go round and both popped right in on first try, no hitting anything was required, with no leaks maybe I got lucky. Once you get hub/knuckle out of the way things should go smoother

 

[heckler]

I have replaced axles twice now due to ripped boots.

I find removing the whole knuckle, which means removing the LBJ and UBJ made it easier for me. The first time I did it without removing the LBJ and I spent 1.5 hours of frustration getting it back in. With the LBJ off it took about half the total time for me. Maybe I am missing something, but just wanted to share my 2 cents.

 

[AFei]

I'm replacing the RH FDS, and trying to take the easier route by removing the knuckle. Now I'm stuck at separating the LBJ from the knuckle. Tried hammer those places marked with no luck. UBJ is off...

any tips?

 

[AFei]

Also tried the ball joint separator from AutoZone but the open is too narrow

 

[leveeguy]

Also tried the ball joint separator from AutoZone but the open is too narrow View attachment 3466114

I’ve had success with this puller that is available only at O REILLY auto parts that I am aware of. About $30

 

[AFei]

View attachment 3466150
I’ve had success with this puller that is available only at O REILLY auto parts that I am aware of. About $30

This one?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/performance-tool/performance-tool-pulley-puller/pfm0/w80653/v/a/7748/automotive-suv-1999-lexus-lx470?q=Puller&pos=4

 

[Dirt J]

Check here

 

[leveeguy]

This one?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/performance-tool/performance-tool-pulley-puller/pfm0/w80653/v/a/7748/automotive-suv-1999-lexus-lx470?q=Puller&pos=4

Yes that’s it

 

[AFei]

Check here

Tried again and hit knuckle really hard, and it popped out finally!

Thanks for helping

 

[AFei]

Yes that’s it

Thanks for helping. This tool is my last hope but fortunately didn't have to use it.

 

[AFei]

Just to confirm, the channel on the bearing seal is expected, right? My first thought was "damn......"

By the way, how could I grease the needle bearing inside the spindle?

 

[TexLexican]

Just to confirm, the channel on the bearing seal is expected, right? My first thought was "damn......"

By the way, how could I grease the needle bearing inside the spindle?


View attachment 3466391

You are replacing the seal, correct?

 

[AFei]

You are replacing the seal, correct?

Yes, also replace the seal. Just removed the old seal. Now trying to sand the top wall a little bit, as the pry bar hit it

 

[AFei]

You are replacing the seal, correct?

You mean that seal? No, not touching it....