kunzma
SILVER Star
Subscribed. Nice work! Grew up in 14. Used to go to the Prairie Museum as a kid.
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- Thread starter
- #262
I bought myself a little tool that's similar to a nib file. I figured it was worth a try. My door looked terrible with the splash of clear on it. After a short bit of work with the tool I dug into it with 800 on an aluminum block and then proceeded as normal. I haven't buffed it out yet so I will have to get back with the finished product later.
- Thread starter
- #263
This is the tool. It's not cheap but works fantastically. Worth every penny.
Ok, what does that tool do? More pics please. I’m always up for a new cool gadget.
- Thread starter
- #265
It's like a nib file. You use very light pressure and push it over dirt nibs and the like. The leading edge has a very slight curve which gets the high spots. Just lay it flat with the string just holding the back up and it slices away the high. The sides are flat and you can back drag sags to knock them down. It's slick. The piece is just a small block of tungsten carbide.
Sweet! I may have to look into this. I have some spots on body that this might
be useful on.
Thanks for the info
Sweet! I may have to look into this. I have some spots on body that this might
be useful on.
Thanks for the info
- Thread starter
- #268
Shot the high build on the cap this evening. I can see a few spots that need a bit more attention but at least it will be easier to sand.
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- #269
Those rivets for the brace that goes on the windshield frame are a real PITA. It's difficult to sand in a circle and not cut a gouge or two. 
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- #271
Thanks
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- #272
I spent a few hours on the cap again last evening. The ultra high build does do a good job of helping get things flat. My only problem is it gets really hard when allowed to cure for too long, similar to regular filler. Ultra high build is essentially sprayable filler. I toughed it out and shot some good ol' 2k primer. I'm hoping I can knock down the 80 grit scratches with 180 and finish with 320 without having to prime again.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Are you wetsanding it?
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- #274
No, not with 320. The sealer does a good job of covering the sanding marks. Though I am just single staging the cap so I might need to wet 400 before color.
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- #275
Got my bezel and cap shot yesterday. I'll post pictures when I get back over to it and it has thoroughly cured. The flat paint I used was drying in stripes. I will be really sweet-talking it if it looks like that when it's done drying.
For now I am just sweet-talking my doors. I HATE glueing door seals I can't help but make a mess which takes half a day to clean.
For now I am just sweet-talking my doors. I HATE glueing door seals I can't help but make a mess which takes half a day to clean.
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- #276
Just a helpful tip, make sure you don't have the rear heat shield bolt pedestals welded on backwards (rear single pedestal to the front instead of to the rear). Good grief. 
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- #277
Baby steps, getting sooo close. Now I need to get the cap in place.
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- #278
Running out of spray glue when you are putting in a headliner is really frustrating.
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- #279
I have been slowly getting this baby across the finish line. Just doing the nickle and dime stuff at the moment. I wil post the process photos a bit later.
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
Nice work, I like the color combination. 
