gonzopancho
SILVER Star
Cruisers and Company 80 Series Turbo (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Cruisers and Co
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- 1fzfe 80 series land cruiser lx450 turbo
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Cruisers and Co
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- Mar 30, 2023
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- Westminster, Colorado
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- #642
Stage 1 on a truck with 35’s and 4:10s with a 350k+ mile trans made 64 horse more and 100 more ftlbs to the ground on 7 lbs. Ground #’s 146 hp to 210 and 190 ftlbs to 290. “stage 1” on 93 should be able to produce more because of the more advanced/tunable ecu. Add big fuel injectors/intercooler and then turn up the boost you’ll have more oomph in an 80 than you’ll ever need.
We’re chasing those dreams
Can I come?I’m totally in for the dog!
Once my rig is back from paint let’s meet up for driving and beers in that order!
Haven’t done it yet and honestly with the IC I really don’t think it’s necessary at all. All the IAT’s we’ve seen have been plenty cool with the IC.
Price will be posted soon. Definitely cheaper than a proper LS swap. I’m talking new connect and cruise not a junkyard swap.
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Consensus is only that boosting the motor changes the dynamics of the PCV system such that intake manifold will not be lower pressure than crankcase at boost.
The “so what” is dependent on your motor condition, your own interpretation of potential damage from blowby into turbo and your risk tolerance.
I’m a fan because I threw the turbo on a motor with 180K miles with no work to it. Probably needs a top-end rebuild but yolo…>10K miles and here I am.
I always have some blow by in there and it gives me some peace of mind to get intake clean.
A few pics of the intercooler kit…
Be aware you will have to remove headlights, bumper, both battery boxes and lower apron to do this install correctly and cleanly without committing further damage to the existing vehicle.
You will also need to either cut or use a 3” hole saw on each side of the car for the lower IC hoses to pass through.
Here’s some pictures of what I have assembled so far…might come in handy for others
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Are you going to be adding air temp sensors to
See how well the Cooler is working?
See how well the Cooler is working?
IAT sensor will be going in to provide information for the haltech, and hopefully justify my spending
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
After the inter cooler The MAF gives pre turbo temp reading.
Won’t be using a MAF as the haltech has its own built in MAP sensor with maps…this will help me eliminate the MAF and then rotate my air cleaner lid around so I have a shorter path to the turbo as opposed to the witsend snake I have now
Thanks for posting these details. I was giving thought to getting that trans cooler even though I’m installing the 7psi kit that comes minus that and the IC.
There are threads pertaining to relocating the AC dryer up beside the battery where the R12 system dryers were from the factory. I plan to do this and bought unions so I can cut the tubes and then splice the dryer into its new location. The one tube in your photo’s appers to be nearly kinked.
There are threads pertaining to relocating the AC dryer up beside the battery where the R12 system dryers were from the factory. I plan to do this and bought unions so I can cut the tubes and then splice the dryer into its new location. The one tube in your photo’s appers to be nearly kinked.
Yeah it’s close to the limit…but still cools like a champ…
My reasoning for documenting this detail isn’t to get my post count up but to help other who buy this kit and discover there’s no instructions outside of a parts list…this way folks have something to reference to and what not to do if I screw up
Removal of the center stiffener on the apron will need to be happen…also the right angle brackets provided with the fmic kit will need to be modified if you have a Slee short bus bumper as they clash with the round tube behind the winch. This is also the location where the 2 rivnuts will be used to secure the lower bracket to the bodywork
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So today I removed the OEM trans cooler,,the center support and all associated trans cooler hardware and brackets.
Cut 2 holes for the silicone 90* that enter the engine bay. Trimmed off the center bracket if the apron which holds the turn signals.
Removed the OEM trans cooler lines and connected the new cooler lines in thier place.
The biggest challenge for me was removing both battery boxes due to the 2 odyssey 31M batteries and associated 1/0 gauge wiring.
Next weekend will see the turbo getting clocked and the stainless pipe work being put in place…might be a bit of head scratching or even calls to Johnny on this…but eyeballing it today makes it all appear doable with the witsend kit…
Cut 2 holes for the silicone 90* that enter the engine bay. Trimmed off the center bracket if the apron which holds the turn signals.
Removed the OEM trans cooler lines and connected the new cooler lines in thier place.
The biggest challenge for me was removing both battery boxes due to the 2 odyssey 31M batteries and associated 1/0 gauge wiring.
Next weekend will see the turbo getting clocked and the stainless pipe work being put in place…might be a bit of head scratching or even calls to Johnny on this…but eyeballing it today makes it all appear doable with the witsend kit…
