Cruisers and Company 80 Series Turbo (3 Viewers)

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The obvious mod after turbo'ed is the fan clutch upgrade...i currently run 15k cst but is that adequate enough or move up to 20k cst for the additional heat it produces?
 
I’m glad people understood my stupid camo joke :rofl:

shellb said:
how am i just now learning about this? Of course I want one!
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I totally forgot to show you last night!

efjayatee said:
The obvious mod after turbo'ed is the fan clutch upgrade...i currently run 15k cst but is that adequate enough or move up to 20k cst for the additional heat it produces?
Click to expand...
15k should be enough
 
got 30k in mine
 
At what temps do the different weight oils in the fan engage?

Or is there a better way of describing it?

I’ve got the Wits End modified blue fan clutch. I don’t remember what oil viscosity oil those came with.

My last run to Death Valley I was showing temps at & above 210*

That’s was with a Ron Davis radiator & Wits End turbo kit.

My anxiety was climbing with every degree above 200*
 
jjdeneen918 said:
At what temps do the different weight oils in the fan engage?

Or is there a better way of describing it?

I’ve got the Wits End modified blue fan clutch. I don’t remember what oil viscosity oil those came with.

My last run to Death Valley I was showing temps at & above 210*

That’s was with a Ron Davis radiator & Wits End turbo kit.

My anxiety was climbing with every degree above 200*
Click to expand...
Do you have a snorkel or sucking air from the fender? What were the ambient temps?
 
The 15k cst landtank and redline land cruiser fan clutches are set to open at 95deg
 
jjdeneen918 said:
Winter in Death Valley, so 70’s during the day.

No snorkel, just from the fender. Ambient air temps can get to about 130*
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For a 70 degree day just cruising (even crawling) you should never see 210 water temp. I wonder if your MAF is getting heat soaked by the exhaust because a 60 degree difference between ambient 70 and 130 is extreme even if you are pulling from the fender and not cool air from a snorkel. I’ll have to go back and see if I kept records of it but there was a point in early turbo testing I was running a cone filter under the hood and once intake air temps reached a certain point there was nothing I could do to keep water temp down at a stoplight besides bringing engine rpm’s up to get air moving in the engine bay and historically before that my 80 lived between 186-195 at a stop. Get moving again and water temp would come down. Once all the intake routing had been figured out then my 80 went back to 186-195 unless under extremes like keeping 75 mph uphill fully loaded at 11k feet.

With a modded clutch an RD rad you should be plenty cool.

Fan clutch Fluid weight determines how much “drive” the fan has when it reaches a certain temperature and engages. Think about it like swimming in water vs gear oil. The gear oil resists your movement much more because it’s thicker. The heavier fluid resists the fan clutch slipping and creates a stronger pull on the air coming through the radiator.

You can change the time at which the fan clutch engages by opening it up and moving the position of the internal screws. I’m not a fan of lowering the engagement temperature because a properly working clutch works just fine and by lowering the engagement temp it cycles more often when it doesn’t actually need to.
 
Cruisers and Co said:
Who wants one? Going to make a 2 pod also! Need to make a few tweaks but for a first go I’d say it’s pretty good!

View attachment 3831889
Click to expand...
when are these going to be available....really not digging my steering column mount, currently have a boost gauge, afr gauge and a scangauge on it...its a bit too much!
 
Cruisers and Co said:
For a 70 degree day just cruising (even crawling) you should never see 210 water temp. I wonder if your MAF is getting heat soaked by the exhaust because a 60 degree difference between ambient 70 and 130 is extreme even if you are pulling from the fender and not cool air from a snorkel. I’ll have to go back and see if I kept records of it but there was a point in early turbo testing I was running a cone filter under the hood and once intake air temps reached a certain point there was nothing I could do to keep water temp down at a stoplight besides bringing engine rpm’s up to get air moving in the engine bay and historically before that my 80 lived between 186-195 at a stop. Get moving again and water temp would come down. Once all the intake routing had been figured out then my 80 went back to 186-195 unless under extremes like keeping 75 mph uphill fully loaded at 11k feet.

With a modded clutch an RD rad you should be plenty cool.

Fan clutch Fluid weight determines how much “drive” the fan has when it reaches a certain temperature and engages. Think about it like swimming in water vs gear oil. The gear oil resists your movement much more because it’s thicker. The heavier fluid resists the fan clutch slipping and creates a stronger pull on the air coming through the radiator.

You can change the time at which the fan clutch engages by opening it up and moving the position of the internal screws. I’m not a fan of lowering the engagement temperature because a properly working clutch works just fine and by lowering the engagement temp it cycles more often when it doesn’t actually need to.
Click to expand...
Yeah, we had a primitive campsite along Marble Canyon Road.

It was a soft-sand wash road, loaded with 4 people & camping gear for a long weekend. Totally flat road though.

By the time we reached our campsite, it was at 212*.

I do monitor IAT, AFR, oil temp, water temp, oil pressure via a JRP 14in1 gauge.
 
I thin
jjdeneen918 said:
Yeah, we had a primitive campsite along Marble Canyon Road.

It was a soft-sand wash road, loaded with 4 people & camping gear for a long weekend. Totally flat road though.

By the time we reached our campsite, it was at 212*.

I do monitor IAT, AFR, oil temp, water temp, oil pressure via a JRP 14in1 gauge.
Click to expand...
I feel like your MAF is getting heat soaked by the exhaust. It’s one of the reasons we tried to keep it forward in our setup. Sand is hard on trucks though even if it is flat
 
jjdeneen918 said:
At what temps do the different weight oils in the fan engage?

Or is there a better way of describing it?
Click to expand...

The temperature the clutch engages at is not due to oil weight.

The thicker the oil, the more friction. So once the ports start to open, a heavier oil will drive the clutch harder sooner. And as the ports full open, a heavier oil will allow less slippage in the hub
 
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