Cruiser Brothers 12.5 LRA Aux Tank Install in LX570

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Yes, Slee set it up so the transfer pump turns itself off when the aux tank is empty.
But what I did was start the transfer pump while the main tank was 3/4 full, so there was no room in the main tank to take all the gas from the aux tank.
I believe in this case the fuel overflows the main tank via the inlet under the cap and then back down the aux tank’s inlet. So it can then be pumped back into the main tank in a nice loop.
This is the equivalent on squeezing the gas pump one more time after the initial click and doing it 1000 times.

It’s my fault for letting this happen, but it would be nice if the pump also shut off when the main tank is full.
Or if the canister was higher than the inlet so leaving the pump running didn’t damage anything.

I need things proof for my level of dumminess.

Oops.
 
For programming the after run, here is a screen shot from the manual. It only takes a minute or so. Once you select your after run time, just leave it alone and it will beep a few times and return to normal running mode.

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You can program this switch to do all sorts of stuff including turning on and off automatically based on the level
of the main tank.
Could you say where you are seeing this?
It isn’t in my manual or one I just found on-line?

But it would be wonderful if I could set a timer on the pump! Or if I could base anything off of the main tank.

Until recently when I forgot to do so, I had always set a timer on my phone to remind me to turn off the pump, but it would be wonderful if I could just get it to run in 5 or 10 minute intervals.
 
Muchas gracias.
 
Both @grinchy and I have relocated our charcoal canisters to the engine bay. However, as long as you have space in the original location above the aux fuel tank, I recommend to leave it there. Relocating to the front is a lot more involved than dropping the aux tank.

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As was previously mentioned, dropping an aux tank to replace the canister really ends up being less of a problem than it initially feels like, but only as long as you're already familiar with how everything was installed. Using a shop (or yourself) that has done the install before is the best idea when you need to drop the tank and replace the canister.
 
....

You can program this switch to do all sorts of stuff including turning on and off automatically based on the level
of the main tank.
If you utilize the second sensor inputs and have your main tank read to this switch. As it is I find the switch level indication a "suggestion". I seem to know when its full and when its empty based on sound of my pump. any other gauge indication less than 4 greens means it's not full, but maybe near empty. I've even parked at 1 green or just hit red and next morning i may have 1 to 3 green lights. I love my Aux tank, and control .. just not the indication.
 
I've had my 12.5 tank for a little over a year now and just experienced my first minor issue, which is 100% my fault. My wife went to fill up and said neither tank would take more than a few gallons, even though both were empty. I also got my first CEL, something about insufficient "evaporative device orifice flow." We just had some snow and the 200 was parked outside overnight so I had a feeling it was the vent filter. I had not changed/cleaned it since install, but still had no problems filling either tank until this incident. Pulled the cover and saw this...

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The slush/spray from the snow on the road had frozen around the filter sock, which was fairly caked with mud and dust. After a rinse and reinstall, both tanks filled fine. I reset the CEL and no codes since. It takes all of 5 minutes to pull and rinse this filter, so I should probably just do it with every oil change, or after extended wheeling in dusty conditions. I don't think the prefilter did much as the main filter was still absolutely caked, so I am going to try not running the prefilter.

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After my original install, I noted that I cracked the little charcoal filter and decided not to run it. Someone asked for a long term follow up and I have not had any issues, other than the above. Probably safe to say it is not necessary.
 
We use this on every 12.5g tank install.


View attachment 2520222
anyone know what size this is supposed to be?

The link doesnt go straight to it anymore and the part number isn't recognized on the web site. I am guessing it is the strips with adhesive backing in this link, just need to know the size

Neoprene Rubber Strips [10 foot lengths] 60A Medium Hardness WITH ADHESIVE BACKING1/2" .500" / 3" wide x 10' long - https://rubbersheetwarehouse.com/products/neoprene-rubber-strips-60a-medium-hardness-with-adhesive-backing?variant=21540360387

Still working my evap issue, but did notice sounds driving when I put the tank back in so want to work through these items before I reinstall it. My tank has to be an early one originally installed in spring of 2018. Right now driving with tank out and Fill tube, fent and output hose all plugged troubleshooting an evap code. Those sounds are no longer there. The Evap issue isn't a topic of this thread. I just want to understand the interference and correction issues before I reinstall. The installer had put a 1/2 deep circle plastic cup on top of the tank before, I didn't know what that was for before, but guessing it was for this.

As part of the interference and adding rubber, has anyone purchased longer U bolts? Was debating if that was worth it
 
Based on Eric's advice, here is what I used (from my receipt in 2020):
  • 1 x Neoprene Rubber Strips 60A Medium Hardness - 1/8" .125" / 4" wide x 10' long for $17.00 each
I didn't purchase longer bolts, it is all pretty tight...
 
The adhesive backing might be a good option though. I used 3M spray contact adhesive.
 
Yeah, I am going with the adhesive. Here is highlighted what I am ordering. Thanks again!
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