LRA install & "while I'm here" items

[Musubi]

I can easily see how the aux tank could push a charcoal canister over the edge. I think there is an argument for and against preemptively changing the CC depending on the owner’s risk tolerance, wrenching abilities, budget, etc.

Yeah. CC isn’t cheap. But to me I would hate myself so much if I have to drop my LRA again within a year. I’ve already been getting random P0441&P0455. I’m not saying it’s the CC, I haven’t exactly started troubling shooting or smoke test. But I’ve gotten a new (non OEM gas cap) and the purge solenoid was just replace 10k miles ago.

 

[Musubi]

You may consider putting in the effort and mod I am proposing. I think that will resolve this issue pretty much as the filter and vent in the top of the wheel well is inherently a dusty and wet environment. Never seen anything major at the filler neck so it is a good place, further supported by the fact that Toyota has the OEM vent build in the filler neck in the same place.

Yes I’ve read that thread a few times. K&N filter and extended hose are already here.

Appreciate the hose connecting pieces! Would save me at least 3 trips to the hardware store lol.

 

[Musubi]

Is this correct: The Dissent rear bumper needs to be removed to install a 24 gallon LRA tank? I am wondering where the interference is...I've recently received my 24 gallon and I'm hoping to avoid re-installing the Dissent rear, if it is not absolutely necessary.

I'm not 100% sure. Will hopefully be done installing both by end of month, so I'll have the answer then. I'm not sure if it's an actual clearance interference, or rather just major inconvenience. But I remember reading LRA becomes a PITA once you have bumpers. There was this giant thread on mud discussing the true cost of LRA. And basically conclusion was that a steel bumper with a swing arm for spare tire is a $5000 hidden cost. And you're kind of forced to do it at the same time. And of course the problem is people tend to do bumpers before LRA (for armor or for cool factor)

I read that a year or two ago while researching LRA, so I probably have misquoted something. But FWIW I asked this same question on FB and some people recommend installing a bumper while I'm at it.

Keep us updated if you install your 24G and run into any issues.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Keep us updated if you install your 24G and run into any issues.

Will do...just need a bit of down time to git-er-dun

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I can confirm that the 24 Gallon LRA can be installed subsequent to the Dissent rear bumper with no notable issues. I suspect that other models would install easily with the Dissent rear installed too. I didn't even have to remove the exhaust hanger, although that might have saved me a few cuts on my fingers

 

[Musubi]

I forgot about this thread. If budget allows install them simultaneously to save on time. It's easier to do LRA first than rear bumper down the line. But if you already have a rear bumper, you can still install the LRA. You might have to remove the passenger wing piece of the bumper to install the transfer pump. And you'll just have a bit less clearance and may take longer to fit your hands around metal pieces. Also having a steel bumper means you're more likely to hit your head or punch metal....instead of the stock plastic bumper hahaha.

Having a completely "open" rear end makes installing the LRA much easier if you're alone in your driveway with jack stands. So I recommend removing the stock bumper even if you don't plan to install a metal bumper.

I made a video that's meant to compliment the OTRAMM install video since his video skipped a few steps. More of a little things to know for those who are finding this thread in the future.

 

[TeCKis300]

Another while in there...

I would highly recommend a body lift, either as part of doing this or a a prior mod. These LRA tanks sit very close to the cab and with movement and time, there are risks to contact and even abrasion risks to electrical and certain hoses, including heater hoses that run back there. It also makes installation hugely easier by allowing more working clearance margin to things like the charcoal canister.

The body lift has merits of its own as a great way to improve approach and departure angles without relying only on huge suspension lifts (that compromise geometry and drivability), while keeping center of gravity low.