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@TeCKis300 For those who are installing a 40gal LRA tank I can confirm that these pads DO NOT need to be cut off. I don't know if that is because of an updated tank design or if the 40gal tank has always been sloped right there to completely miss those brackets. Just thought I would throw is up in here so that the next guy that puts a 40gal in won't need to worry about cutting them off and the potential for rust later on.Tank raised into position. Seemed to have missed a step that the that the instructions don't identify. The video install seems to ignore it too?
There's a raised part of the coach/body rail that sits on top of the tank. I would think that these two pads should be cut-off? As the frame moves somewhat independently of the body. What do you think @orangefj45?
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@TeCKis300 For those who are installing a 40gal LRA tank I can confirm that these pads DO NOT need to be cut off. I don't know if that is because of an updated tank design or if the 40gal tank has always been sloped right there to completely miss those brackets. Just thought I would throw is up in here so that the next guy that puts a 40gal in won't need to worry about cutting them off and the potential for rust later on.
I also confirmed that the Evap Canister does have about an 1/8" clearance between it and the 40gal so no need for shims. It was a bugger to get the inspection camera in there to see it (I wish I would have had it hooked to bluetooth to snap a picture).
I was also wondering if anyone has solved the EVAP filter problem? I will post on the other page that address that as well but if someone doesn't have a solution yet I think I may have a suggestion.
What do you mean by EVAP filter problem? A few of us are running a different breather. Edit: see post above by @TeCKis300@TeCKis300 For those who are installing a 40gal LRA tank I can confirm that these pads DO NOT need to be cut off. I don't know if that is because of an updated tank design or if the 40gal tank has always been sloped right there to completely miss those brackets. Just thought I would throw is up in here so that the next guy that puts a 40gal in won't need to worry about cutting them off and the potential for rust later on.
I also confirmed that the Evap Canister does have about an 1/8" clearance between it and the 40gal so no need for shims. It was a bugger to get the inspection camera in there to see it (I wish I would have had it hooked to bluetooth to snap a picture).
I was also wondering if anyone has solved the EVAP filter problem? I will post on the other page that address that as well but if someone doesn't have a solution yet I think I may have a suggestion.
Great to know. Those are details I haven't heard about the 40gallon unit before.
What's the concern about EVAP filter? I've solved a couple mysteries with it.
- Good to high loop it and have the filter in the dangling position to avoid regular ingest of moisture
- Use a larger hose and larger filter to have enough breather flow when filling gas and avoiding a sensitive gas pump fill
- Clean filter regularly, or when gas pump clicks off too easily
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Anatomy of P0456 - Small Evap Leak
Recently have been getting CEL code P0456 - small evap leak. As the evap system self test is performed at night by the vehicle, usual symptom would be a nice greeting in the morning with flashing CEL, 4LO, TRAC, etc. And the inability to toggle 4LO, CDL, etc., if off-road camping. It...forum.ih8mud.com
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Charcoal Canister / LRA Breather Fix
TL;DR 1) LRA charcoal breather plumbing and adapters are too small in diameter, limiting venting when filling the main tank tripping the gas pump. Needs 5/8" ID plumbing though to breather. 2) Breather filter is a maintenance item. Too much dust and dirt will plug the external breather filter...forum.ih8mud.com
What do you mean by EVAP filter problem? A few of us are running a different breather. Edit: see post above by @TeCKis300
I'm also running a mesh prefilter from a motorcycle.
I've gotten evap codes in Colorado at elevation, never anywhere else.
I've had problems when the filter clogged, easily fixed by blowing off the filter.
It sounds like everyone is having issues with keeping the filter clean and working all of the time due to the fact that its now more exposed to the elements and not closed off envoirnment. I looked at the original design of the filler neck and see that the Vapor canister filter was directed back up inside the filler neck. Why can't we do that now? I must admit I wish I understood the Evap system more so maybe I have missed the obivious here, but the only potential problem I can see with that is if the filler neck gets overfilled to the point that it would be going down the 5/8 Aux Vent tube soaking the Vapor Canister filter and potentially reaching the Charcoal Canister. I guess another problem might be that during fillup there is too much positive pressure but I don't think so.
If I haven't missed anything and it is possible this should solve the issue of dirty filters and potential water infiltration like @TeCKis300 has had by keeping everything in a closed system relying on the cap to vent. What are your thoughts?
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I have a 3d printer I would be willing to lend to the cause, but don't (yet) have an aux tank filler neck to test on. Also, I have limited 3d printing experience....soooo.....What if someone designed an enclosure for the K&N filter that could be 3d printed that addressed the shortcomings? I'm not exactly sure what that might look like, but it might be fun to experiment with for someone with those skills.
Nobody that I'm aware of makes one that's legal for sale and use in the US.What about just removing the OEM tank and replace with another bigger tank under ? …..
Nobody makes one period. There’s not enough room to build anything substantially larger.Nobody that I'm aware of makes one that's legal for sale and use in the US.
I like where you're going with this. I remember an Aux tank I installed on an FJ back in '10; they just included an entire replacement filler neck, from fill point to the tanks.It sounds like everyone is having issues with keeping the filter clean and working all of the time due to the fact that its now more exposed to the elements and not closed off envoirnment. I looked at the original design of the filler neck and see that the Vapor canister filter was directed back up inside the filler neck. Why can't we do that now? I must admit I wish I understood the Evap system more so maybe I have missed the obivious here, but the only potential problem I can see with that is if the filler neck gets overfilled to the point that it would be going down the 5/8 Aux Vent tube soaking the Vapor Canister filter and potentially reaching the Charcoal Canister. I guess another problem might be that during fillup there is too much positive pressure but I don't think so.
If I haven't missed anything and it is possible this should solve the issue of dirty filters and potential water infiltration like @TeCKis300 has had by keeping everything in a closed system relying on the cap to vent. What are your thoughts?
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Cool idea. It may not be necessary though. I've been running without that plastic box for 10k miles and it is fine. No issues, no codes.I had to replace my evap canister. The Toyota tech came up with this. A hole is drilled to let water out. In the future I plan to try this Napa filter. Easy to replace.
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