Cruiser Brothers 12.5 LRA Aux Tank Install in LX570

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yes. I've had mine underwater several times and it was fine. I did use heat shrink adhesive connectors on any wire connections.

410080A4-B0C8-4AA8-A493-88C80D403D6E.jpeg

3163D7C7-FBD1-4E1D-AD2D-E8080A69D846.webp
 
Tank raised into position. Seemed to have missed a step that the that the instructions don't identify. The video install seems to ignore it too?

There's a raised part of the coach/body rail that sits on top of the tank. I would think that these two pads should be cut-off? As the frame moves somewhat independently of the body. What do you think @orangefj45?

View attachment 1868337

View attachment 1868338
@TeCKis300 For those who are installing a 40gal LRA tank I can confirm that these pads DO NOT need to be cut off. I don't know if that is because of an updated tank design or if the 40gal tank has always been sloped right there to completely miss those brackets. Just thought I would throw is up in here so that the next guy that puts a 40gal in won't need to worry about cutting them off and the potential for rust later on.

I also confirmed that the Evap Canister does have about an 1/8" clearance between it and the 40gal so no need for shims. It was a bugger to get the inspection camera in there to see it (I wish I would have had it hooked to bluetooth to snap a picture).

I was also wondering if anyone has solved the EVAP filter problem? I will post on the other page that address that as well but if someone doesn't have a solution yet I think I may have a suggestion.
 
@TeCKis300 For those who are installing a 40gal LRA tank I can confirm that these pads DO NOT need to be cut off. I don't know if that is because of an updated tank design or if the 40gal tank has always been sloped right there to completely miss those brackets. Just thought I would throw is up in here so that the next guy that puts a 40gal in won't need to worry about cutting them off and the potential for rust later on.

I also confirmed that the Evap Canister does have about an 1/8" clearance between it and the 40gal so no need for shims. It was a bugger to get the inspection camera in there to see it (I wish I would have had it hooked to bluetooth to snap a picture).

I was also wondering if anyone has solved the EVAP filter problem? I will post on the other page that address that as well but if someone doesn't have a solution yet I think I may have a suggestion.

Great to know. Those are details I haven't heard about the 40gallon unit before.

What's the concern about EVAP filter? I've solved a couple mysteries with it.
- Good to high loop it and have the filter in the dangling position to avoid regular ingest of moisture
- Use a larger hose and larger filter to have enough breather flow when filling gas and avoiding a sensitive gas pump fill
- Clean filter regularly, or when gas pump clicks off too easily

 
@TeCKis300 For those who are installing a 40gal LRA tank I can confirm that these pads DO NOT need to be cut off. I don't know if that is because of an updated tank design or if the 40gal tank has always been sloped right there to completely miss those brackets. Just thought I would throw is up in here so that the next guy that puts a 40gal in won't need to worry about cutting them off and the potential for rust later on.

I also confirmed that the Evap Canister does have about an 1/8" clearance between it and the 40gal so no need for shims. It was a bugger to get the inspection camera in there to see it (I wish I would have had it hooked to bluetooth to snap a picture).

I was also wondering if anyone has solved the EVAP filter problem? I will post on the other page that address that as well but if someone doesn't have a solution yet I think I may have a suggestion.
What do you mean by EVAP filter problem? A few of us are running a different breather. Edit: see post above by @TeCKis300

I'm also running a mesh prefilter from a motorcycle.

I've gotten evap codes in Colorado at elevation, never anywhere else.

I've had problems when the filter clogged, easily fixed by blowing off the filter.
 
Great to know. Those are details I haven't heard about the 40gallon unit before.

What's the concern about EVAP filter? I've solved a couple mysteries with it.
- Good to high loop it and have the filter in the dangling position to avoid regular ingest of moisture
- Use a larger hose and larger filter to have enough breather flow when filling gas and avoiding a sensitive gas pump fill
- Clean filter regularly, or when gas pump clicks off too easily

What do you mean by EVAP filter problem? A few of us are running a different breather. Edit: see post above by @TeCKis300

I'm also running a mesh prefilter from a motorcycle.

I've gotten evap codes in Colorado at elevation, never anywhere else.

I've had problems when the filter clogged, easily fixed by blowing off the filter.

It sounds like everyone is having issues with keeping the filter clean and working all of the time due to the fact that its now more exposed to the elements and not closed off envoirnment. I looked at the original design of the filler neck and see that the Vapor canister filter was directed back up inside the filler neck. Why can't we do that now? I must admit I wish I understood the Evap system more so maybe I have missed the obivious here, but the only potential problem I can see with that is if the filler neck gets overfilled to the point that it would be going down the 5/8 Aux Vent tube soaking the Vapor Canister filter and potentially reaching the Charcoal Canister. I guess another problem might be that during fillup there is too much positive pressure but I don't think so.

If I haven't missed anything and it is possible this should solve the issue of dirty filters and potential water infiltration like @TeCKis300 has had by keeping everything in a closed system relying on the cap to vent. What are your thoughts?

Screenshot_20221215-160935_2.webp


Screenshot_20221215-161027_2.webp


Screenshot_20221215-161054_2.webp
 
Well, if I had serviced (blown out) the breather filter when I replaced my engine air filter, I wouldn't have had a problem. For me, it is just a maintenance item that comes with the convenience of having on board auxiliary fuel. When I replace my engine filter, or if I've been running especially dusty routes (like the week I spent in a convoy in massive dust conditions in Canada last summer) I also need to service the gas vent filter.

If your idea proves effective, it would be a great addition to the collective. Try it out and report back. Maybe you're onto the fix!
 
It sounds like everyone is having issues with keeping the filter clean and working all of the time due to the fact that its now more exposed to the elements and not closed off envoirnment. I looked at the original design of the filler neck and see that the Vapor canister filter was directed back up inside the filler neck. Why can't we do that now? I must admit I wish I understood the Evap system more so maybe I have missed the obivious here, but the only potential problem I can see with that is if the filler neck gets overfilled to the point that it would be going down the 5/8 Aux Vent tube soaking the Vapor Canister filter and potentially reaching the Charcoal Canister. I guess another problem might be that during fillup there is too much positive pressure but I don't think so.

If I haven't missed anything and it is possible this should solve the issue of dirty filters and potential water infiltration like @TeCKis300 has had by keeping everything in a closed system relying on the cap to vent. What are your thoughts?

View attachment 3194498

View attachment 3194499

View attachment 3194500

There was a longer thread where we came to the conclusion you can't just block the vent. It's necessary for several reasons, but most importantly to equalize pressure as the fuel is drawn down. Otherwise there would be negative pressure causing fueling issues.

That said, you asked a great question - why can't we locate the breather back at the filler neck. Well...maybe we can if the right part were designed and 3D printed. Hrmm...maybe my x'mas project.
 
It is a pressurized system. ,. You can not close off that vent as it is use to pressurize and release pressure to maintain a given set level. It's used to breath.
 
It looks like the orginal charcoal vents outside the filler neck. Pulling it apart it gives me a good idea of building a small enclosure to keep the filter out of elements.

imagejpeg_2.webp


imagejpeg_0_6.webp


imagejpeg_0_7.webp


imagejpeg_1_3.webp


imagejpeg_1_2.webp
 
^Yup. I took mine apart too to see what it's all about.

Other than the obvious reason to get rid of the maintenance filter item, the other motivation is that my fuel filler neck is now always dirty with silt after off-road runs. The rubber boot doesn't seal well (at all?) against the aftermarket fill neck.
 
What if someone designed an enclosure for the K&N filter that could be 3d printed that addressed the shortcomings? I'm not exactly sure what that might look like, but it might be fun to experiment with for someone with those skills.
 
What if someone designed an enclosure for the K&N filter that could be 3d printed that addressed the shortcomings? I'm not exactly sure what that might look like, but it might be fun to experiment with for someone with those skills.
I have a 3d printer I would be willing to lend to the cause, but don't (yet) have an aux tank filler neck to test on. Also, I have limited 3d printing experience....soooo.....
 
Woh this brings back a lot of memories...

I remember when that @mobi-arc fella and I imported a bunch of these for the 80/100 series, and then spent months collecting all the rare funky overseas OEM bits to install them. Guessing 10+ years ago or so?

Glad to see they sell them as a full kit now. As much as i loved sourcing odd random OEM bits, the cost got silly real quick!

Stoked to see these available for the 200 as a mostly plug and play option!

Loving this build thread! Bravo!
 
What about just removing the OEM tank and replace with another bigger tank under ? …..
 
What about just removing the OEM tank and replace with another bigger tank under ? …..
Nobody that I'm aware of makes one that's legal for sale and use in the US.
 
It sounds like everyone is having issues with keeping the filter clean and working all of the time due to the fact that its now more exposed to the elements and not closed off envoirnment. I looked at the original design of the filler neck and see that the Vapor canister filter was directed back up inside the filler neck. Why can't we do that now? I must admit I wish I understood the Evap system more so maybe I have missed the obivious here, but the only potential problem I can see with that is if the filler neck gets overfilled to the point that it would be going down the 5/8 Aux Vent tube soaking the Vapor Canister filter and potentially reaching the Charcoal Canister. I guess another problem might be that during fillup there is too much positive pressure but I don't think so.

If I haven't missed anything and it is possible this should solve the issue of dirty filters and potential water infiltration like @TeCKis300 has had by keeping everything in a closed system relying on the cap to vent. What are your thoughts?

View attachment 3194498

View attachment 3194499

View attachment 3194500
I like where you're going with this. I remember an Aux tank I installed on an FJ back in '10; they just included an entire replacement filler neck, from fill point to the tanks.

Here are my concerns (having not done any research yet):

1. The system entry must have a good seal, for example, in Texas, in order to pass your yearly inspection, they do a gas cap seal test. But since this model basically negates the function of the breather entirely, I guess one would maintain a good "seal" at the cap. Along those lines...
2. I believe another poster mentioned that this is a sealed system but it still needs to be able to "breathe" in order to maintain certain pressures/equilibrium. Said another way: ever put your finger on top of a straw to draw out a taste of soda? Same concept is at play once you screw that gas cap on, the other two breathers are exclusively for when you are filling the tanks with gas.

However, you are absolutely correct in your investigation of the stock breather routing! Ideally, someone could fabricate an entire filler neck assembly with a breather setup fabricated in a similar manner to the stock breather. However, that's a bit of a ridiculous ask given the relatively small market for this item. Basically, you could locate any type of small "snorkel-style" plastic endcap that functions similarly to how the stock setup works, zip tie locate it like LRA recommends for the filtered setup and you'd probably be just fine and it wouldn't clog as quickly as a paper filter would.

Regardless, I really like the idea of brainstorming a different way to deal with the breather.
 
I had to replace my evap canister. The Toyota tech came up with this. A hole is drilled to let water out. In the future I plan to try this Napa filter. Easy to replace.

View attachment 3358483

View attachment 3358484
Cool idea. It may not be necessary though. I've been running without that plastic box for 10k miles and it is fine. No issues, no codes.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom