I am wanting to make a Crank Pulley Holding Tool that will fit both by 100 series and 80 Series. Anyone happen to know the center to center distance for the bolt holes of either (particularly the 80 series)?
Crank Pulley Holding tool....question
- Thread starter flintknapper
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NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
@flintknapper I just did the timing belt on my 100. I bought a tool off Amazon for about $50 that worked great for the 2UZ. I will measure tomorrow for you.
Amazon product ASIN B08112M37C
Amazon product ASIN B08112M37C
- Thread starter
- #4
You can back it up on a 14mm torque converter bolt too. Managed it myself from underneath the 80(as I tightened it anyway). Breaking it loose might be another story. Just pull the rubber plug and rotate the engine until there’s a 14mm bolt head exposed. Then loosen the crank bolt with the 14mm socket backed up against the oil pan/Bellhousing. Don’t leave that 14mm socket there though and forgot it. Could be catastrophic.
- Thread starter
- #6
^^^^
I know it can be this way....and folks get away with it (most of them)...but I'm more of a 'proper tool for the job' kinda guy.
I have an impact that will take the bolt off and a calibrated torque wrench that will put it back on, just need a holding tool that will both my 100 series and 80 series...so I'll probably have to make that. Thanks though.
If you're considering using those bolts to hold against the 300+ ft lbs of the main crank pulley bolt, I'd suggest that whatever tool you're crafting engages those flanges on the pulley and you're not directly applying twisting forces to the bolts that go into those two holes.
My custom tool covers both the 80 and the 100. I call it the angry pigeon. I will shoot a picture of it if I can locate. I crank it down and the bolts are what takes the abuse. Heed what @nemoblackdog says and improve on my design. Picture to follow.
- Thread starter
- #9
Love to see it...or others that folks here have done
- Thread starter
- #11
Did yours rely on the bolts only to take the force of torquing the bolt back on (304 ft. lbs or whatever it is)? I can't imagine that would be a problem really. I don't see 300 ft. lbs shearing off two bolts.
Doubtfull you'd break the two bolts. If you look at the Toyota tool that's the connection point it uses as do most of the universal crank pully holding tools on the market.
FWIW I used the 14mm socket technique on mine for both removal and install. No issues.
FWIW I used the 14mm socket technique on mine for both removal and install. No issues.
Use good quality Toyota bolts (I used brake disk bolts from a 78 GS1000 Suzuki )and the 300 ft/lb is no issue. Just finished this job with a homemade tool. It only took me a hour to make. It’s a round piece of aluminum, 5/16” and the flat bar is 3/8(I know, overkill), it was all I had, free also
. Plate is 20”L.Why the aluminum disk you ask? Well, the bar could just be used, however, the surface the bolts go in sits below the surface of the pulley. If you just put the flat bar then you could possibly damage the elastomeric that attaches the inner part of the pulley to the outer, also figured with the disk the bolts/pulley stack up would be stronger as the pieces are nesting.
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They did with no problem. I torqued with two different wrenches and all has been well for several years.
The torque wrenches I used surprised me with how little effort 304ft/llbs took. That’s leverage for you.
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
You can always just buy one made...
1FZ-FE Crank Holding Tool
Crank golding tool for the 1fz-fe engine in a Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser
www.otramm.com
- Thread starter
- #16
Right. Getting leverage won't be a problem for me, just want to hold the pulley securely.
- Thread starter
- #17
You can always just buy one made...
1FZ-FE Crank Holding Tool
Crank golding tool for the 1fz-fe engine in a Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiserwww.otramm.com
Well...Hell, there's the answer. Didn't know that existed. Thanks.
I believe the bolt spacing for my 100 series is less than that for the 80 series, so I might be able to just pop some holes in this tool and have what I wanted (a single tool to do both vehicles). Might need to modify it some ....but no problem, 'we have the technology'...
The tool I came up with was crude and simple, used it a couple of times, no issues. Just set it up so the arm of the tool is under the right frame rail, bolt it onto the crank pulley, no issues with the bolts snapping.
But now having seen Otramm's nice tool I'm embarrassed by the crudeness of my shade tree one-off
But now having seen Otramm's nice tool I'm embarrassed by the crudeness of my shade tree one-off
- Thread starter
- #19
The tool I came up with was crude and simple, used it a couple of times, no issues. Just set it up so the arm of the tool is under the right frame rail, bolt it onto the crank pulley, no issues with the bolts snapping.
But now having seen Otramm's nice tool I'm embarrassed by the crudeness of my shade tree one-off
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Nothing wrong with that tool at all. Very innovative, got the job done, no unneeded expenses. I'd say you did very well.
Nice, clean under-body BTW.
Thanks for sharing.
ppc
M Go Blue
Just needs to be zinc plated. 
