- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks dad
Tool Kit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sgmartz
- Start date
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IME a commonly neglected maintenance item on "new to me" 80 Series is the lack of regular service (greasing) of U-joints, driveshaft slip yolks, and the steering knuckles (which lube the CV joints and spindle bushings).
So on top of (already mentioned) checking air pressure and all fluid levels you could/should grease all 4 U-joints until all air/old grease come out of all end caps then grease the slip yolks until they start to move (push apart). Also add Moly fortified grease to your steering knuckles if the swivel balls look dry. You can use Valvoline Palladium (NAPA stores sell it in the US) can be used for everything mentioned, but a Moly grease should be used at least in the knuckles and the slip yolks. Any automotive MP or wheel bearing grease for the U-joints.
Get yourself a good manual grease gun with a flexible hose that takes the standard 14 oz grease tubes. I find the long lever type easier to use, FWIW.
To get the grease coupling nozzle thingy onto a couple of the zerk fittings for the U-joints you may have to orient the driveshaft where the zerk fittings are pointing somewhat upward ie: between 10-2 O'clock so the U-joint is opened up enough to fit the nozzle inside, if that makes sense.
So on top of (already mentioned) checking air pressure and all fluid levels you could/should grease all 4 U-joints until all air/old grease come out of all end caps then grease the slip yolks until they start to move (push apart). Also add Moly fortified grease to your steering knuckles if the swivel balls look dry. You can use Valvoline Palladium (NAPA stores sell it in the US) can be used for everything mentioned, but a Moly grease should be used at least in the knuckles and the slip yolks. Any automotive MP or wheel bearing grease for the U-joints.
Get yourself a good manual grease gun with a flexible hose that takes the standard 14 oz grease tubes. I find the long lever type easier to use, FWIW.
To get the grease coupling nozzle thingy onto a couple of the zerk fittings for the U-joints you may have to orient the driveshaft where the zerk fittings are pointing somewhat upward ie: between 10-2 O'clock so the U-joint is opened up enough to fit the nozzle inside, if that makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for continued advice. Maybe to help clarify, I have a full garage at home and have been built many many cars. I’m moving from a very well built TJ ((including a fabbed 4 link I did on my own) to a LC due to space needs. Once I’m home it will get a winter’s worth of maintenance. Just looking for anything LC80 specific I need to know before a long drive.
What I would do depends on how I felt about the rig. If it seems reasonably solid mechanically, I wouldn't worry about anything more complicated than a jack and a spare. If it feels like it's on its last legs, same answer, but film everything and start a youtube channel.
In my mind, anything beyond basic tools is more of a concern for overlanding, wheeling, etc. If you're just driving it up the highway, I would just run it. The "Dad" advice is dad advice because it's based on experience: we've all done trips like this countless times. If you bring every tool you own, you'll either need none of them, or need the one thing you forgot.
