Intake manifold cracked at bolt flange, tryed welding didn't hold up. The 2F is a June of 1976 by serial # 2F097557, Head # 81030, block #11411 61011. Smog has been removed, aftermarket 6 to 1 header and Holly carb. Does anybody have a intake manifold or sugestion on where to buy. The manifold is sand cast aluminium. Is there a web site with photo's of the different manifolds. Thanks
Cracked intake manifold 1976 2F
- Thread starter Jimfj40
- Start date
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They are relatively common. Post up in the wanted section and you'll get one easily. I'll bet Georg at Valley Hybrids would have one on hand.
SOR doesn't appear to sell the intake by itself, but you could call them and ask.
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 044 Land Cruiser Manifolds
SOR doesn't appear to sell the intake by itself, but you could call them and ask.
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 044 Land Cruiser Manifolds
Classifieds are your friend
The manifold cracked at the ear because the Intake casting is thicker than the header flange you're using and when you tighten the nut, it pulls the alum ear down to meet level of the header flange and if too much, cracks. If you weld it again, use some "half-moon" washers to build the low side up, or get the manifold surfaced and spot faced with the header.
Where are you? Someone local may have a spare manifold, if you wanna go that route.
Where are you? Someone local may have a spare manifold, if you wanna go that route.
- Thread starter
- #5
cracked 2F manifold
Nope, when I had it welded the first time I had them fill in the groove. Then I ground it so it was the same height as the new header. I think the problem was they didn't preheat the cast aluminium before welding.
Nope, when I had it welded the first time I had them fill in the groove. Then I ground it so it was the same height as the new header. I think the problem was they didn't preheat the cast aluminium before welding.
Sometimes the "ear" of the intake is slightly (just .010) or so pulled away from the flat of the manifold gasket surface. I noticed that on my son's intake manifold on his '77. That intake had never been surfaced after it was manufactured. If it had been surfaced flat, the ears would have been even with the gasket face. As it was, the very slight gap at the ears for the mounting nuts allowed extra clamping force for the gasket. The aluminum ears could "give" a little under the nuts until they pulled down hard against the completely flat exhaust manifold ears. I did surface the gasket face of his exhaust manifold. As a result, the flanges were thinner on the exhaust manifold than they were on the aluminum intake. That would result in uneven clamping if it were left like that. Rather than grind down the thickness of the intake manifold and weaken the casting, or using split washers, I built the nut side of the exhaust manifold ears up with some brazing rod and then used a vertical mill to get the thickness matched back up with the thickness of the intake ears. That way I had a nice "flat" for the washer to rest against as the nut was tightened. So far, his intake and exhaust are holding up nicely with no leaks.
BTW, at the same time I did all the above work, I also milled off the area of the intake manifold where it mated to the exhaust. Here in Texas, it is already plenty hot and we didn't need the additional heat transfer from the exhaust to the intake. After milling, there was enough of a gap to put a mating gasket and a 1/4" thick piece of steel as a block-off plate on the exhaust manifold. I removed the heat riser and welded up the pivot holes in the exhaust manifold. Now he doesn't get any heat-soak and doesn't need a carb cooling fan anymore. I have photos of this if anyone is interested.
BTW, at the same time I did all the above work, I also milled off the area of the intake manifold where it mated to the exhaust. Here in Texas, it is already plenty hot and we didn't need the additional heat transfer from the exhaust to the intake. After milling, there was enough of a gap to put a mating gasket and a 1/4" thick piece of steel as a block-off plate on the exhaust manifold. I removed the heat riser and welded up the pivot holes in the exhaust manifold. Now he doesn't get any heat-soak and doesn't need a carb cooling fan anymore. I have photos of this if anyone is interested.
- Thread starter
- #8
Cracker manifold
Yes, I had lockwasher groove filled in when I had manifold welded the the first time. Ground down to match header. Seemed to work good. I think the ear rebroke because my welder didn't preheat the cast aluminium manifold prior to welding. From what I read they tend to crack if not preheated. I have one ordered from SOR, $110 not bad. They say to have machined to match header.
Yes, I had lockwasher groove filled in when I had manifold welded the the first time. Ground down to match header. Seemed to work good. I think the ear rebroke because my welder didn't preheat the cast aluminium manifold prior to welding. From what I read they tend to crack if not preheated. I have one ordered from SOR, $110 not bad. They say to have machined to match header.
Great price. I wouldn't sell my spare for anything close to that.
Or you could have bought that one on ebay (not mine) for a fraction of the price. They usually don't sell for more than $20.
