Cowl sealant. What to use... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jetlander
- Start date
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3
Perfect! I searched here on Mud but I wasn’t able to find anything. Funny thing is, I know I read about it before in a thread.
That product Rocky mountain posted looks good. I just did the same thing to my '77 and used the 3M self leveling seam sealer. Only down side is the need to buy or borrow the 3M dual cartridge gun (about $35). It is trick to get a good job and I recommend taping off the edges of the seam to make clean up easier. Use rubber gloves.
GA Architect did a photo step-by-step on his cowl job. Good Luck!
GA Architect did a photo step-by-step on his cowl job. Good Luck!
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I’ve been known to loan out that applicator gun for the SEM and 3M dual mix cartridges.
It’s on loan right now as we speak.
It’s on loan right now as we speak.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Boy.... I’d worry about the self leveling SEM running down the side.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
3M™ Brushable Seam Sealer | 3M United States
3M™ Ultrapro™ Autobody Sealant | 3M United States
have used these 3m products with great success, wear a mask, they stink but work well, push don't pull the bead
3M™ Ultrapro™ Autobody Sealant | 3M United States
have used these 3m products with great success, wear a mask, they stink but work well, push don't pull the bead
Hmmm, I think I had better do something about this too..
I read with interest...
Gaz..
I read with interest...
Gaz..
Yeah, don't use self leveling seam sealer on vertical surface. It'll just run down. I'd use the brush on or cartridge type seam sealer.
A tip - just like bathroom caulk, I'd put masking tapes on both sides as close to the seam as possible, then apply your sealer. After that, while it's still wet, use your gloved finger dipped in acetone/paint thinner and smooth out the sealer. Then remove the tapes before the sealer dries.
A tip - just like bathroom caulk, I'd put masking tapes on both sides as close to the seam as possible, then apply your sealer. After that, while it's still wet, use your gloved finger dipped in acetone/paint thinner and smooth out the sealer. Then remove the tapes before the sealer dries.
Cool Cruisers sells a product made by 3M called "Fast and Firm for this. It worked well for me. Sealer, 3M Fast'n Firm
- Thread starter
- #12
So my question is this... It appears the sealant Toyota used wasn't smoothed out, basically just beaded into the seam. Why would you want to smooth it out, and if so, how smooth?
I was planning on digging out the old sealant from the entire cowl, inside and out. Was a single tube sufficient to reapply all the sealant in its entirety?
Good luck getting a perfect bead in there! I’ve done it a bunch of times and every time I do it I try to get a perfect looking bead and every time I just end up wiping it with my finger to smooth it out because it looks better.
I used two types of 3M; one was the self leveling and the other was more like caulk and didn't run. Working time is very short and I too used my finger (inside my glove) to smooth the bead otherwise it would look like a dirt dauber did the job.
I can loan out my new 3M dual cartridge gun to a fellow mudder if needed and return it clean and promptly after using it. PM me if interested.
Edit to add: I too used a pick to clean out the old OEM sealer and then primed the area to meet the 3M instructions to apply over a primed surface. I also calked all the other joints on the truck the same way and used three packs (about $27 each) of the self leveling and one of the non-self leveling. TIP: Get everything ready before starting as the product will harden in the mixing tube in about 5 - 8 minutes and then you need to install the spare mixing tube included in the pack to finish.
I can loan out my new 3M dual cartridge gun to a fellow mudder if needed and return it clean and promptly after using it. PM me if interested.
Edit to add: I too used a pick to clean out the old OEM sealer and then primed the area to meet the 3M instructions to apply over a primed surface. I also calked all the other joints on the truck the same way and used three packs (about $27 each) of the self leveling and one of the non-self leveling. TIP: Get everything ready before starting as the product will harden in the mixing tube in about 5 - 8 minutes and then you need to install the spare mixing tube included in the pack to finish.
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- Thread starter
- #15
Great info but with that being said, I’m interested in doing the sealer myself so I know it’s done right. But I’m also having it painted professionally, and there is the problem. I wasn’t planning on stripping the entire rig of old paint, just the areas I’m working on so it’ll have to be chemically stripped or blasted prior to paint. Will the sealant hold up to that? Kind of a chicken or egg first scenario.
My buddy hydro blasted my '77 and the OEM caulk held up OK. After it had been dug out and the new 3M applied I went back bead blasted some of the areas I had sealed to clean up some stubborn paint left over from the hydro blast and the 3M held up fine with no issues. I even sanded over it with 600 and 800 grit without any problem. Needs to cure before abusing it though.
Sand blasting can warp your sheet metal due to the heat generated by the sand blasting which is why I hydro blasted mine using glass beads and water. The process is quick and cool so no warping. Suggest you check it out. Took 12 bags of glass beads to do mine including all the bits and pieces.
bcsteel
SILVER Star
X2 for the hydro blasting. Works really well and easy on the panels.
Self leveling seam sealers are really only necessary for high-volume areas like rain gutters. You can level any seam sealer with your finger in the small seams.
