- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks man. You should probably do a proper shakedown cruise in your GX and weld my motor mounts in so I don't mess it up.
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Was digging around on the Web and found a reference for Westar EM-8642. Seems to be made for the 88-90 model years. Maybe that'll work?
Security Check - https://www.carid.com/westar/automatic-transmission-mount-mpn-em-8642.html
- Thread starter
- #24
Little bit more work done over the past couple of weeks. Got the engine bay pressure washed, and chatted with Matt about modifying the adapter to work with stock 62 crossmember and mount.
Currently trying to decide if I am going to strip everything off of the firewall for paint, or just spray the inner fenders. Also need to paint my diff, as once the layers of grease and oil came off, I am down to metal on it. May as well do steering linkage while I'm at it.
Worked on measuring AA mount for the correct 62 crossmember placement after chatting with Matt. This placement was measured off of the A440 to keep the transfer case as close the stock place location as possible. Mount placement on the 440 is very close to the rear of the transmission, so on the AA piece it will be mounted as close to the edge of the machined section as I can get it and still get 360˚ thread engagement. That ends up being about 1/2" from the t-case mounting surface vs 1/8" on the A440. Assuming the driveshafts will have enough slip in them to work with a 3/8" move to the rear, but Matt please shout if I am butchering your intended design.
Unfortunately there is not enough material to machine the mount surface down 3/8" so that it is square with the t-case mounting surface. That would allow me to match the forward/rearward t-case location perfectly, and would have the bonus of not needing 1/4" spacers between my frame a crossmember to lower the transmission a bit (per Matt). Oh well.
A440 mounting location:
Ideal placement:
This is where I will drill and tap:
Currently trying to decide if I am going to strip everything off of the firewall for paint, or just spray the inner fenders. Also need to paint my diff, as once the layers of grease and oil came off, I am down to metal on it. May as well do steering linkage while I'm at it.
Worked on measuring AA mount for the correct 62 crossmember placement after chatting with Matt. This placement was measured off of the A440 to keep the transfer case as close the stock place location as possible. Mount placement on the 440 is very close to the rear of the transmission, so on the AA piece it will be mounted as close to the edge of the machined section as I can get it and still get 360˚ thread engagement. That ends up being about 1/2" from the t-case mounting surface vs 1/8" on the A440. Assuming the driveshafts will have enough slip in them to work with a 3/8" move to the rear, but Matt please shout if I am butchering your intended design.
Unfortunately there is not enough material to machine the mount surface down 3/8" so that it is square with the t-case mounting surface. That would allow me to match the forward/rearward t-case location perfectly, and would have the bonus of not needing 1/4" spacers between my frame a crossmember to lower the transmission a bit (per Matt). Oh well.
A440 mounting location:
Ideal placement:
This is where I will drill and tap:
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
The 1/2” change from stock is not a problem.
Put the mount where you will have good threads.
Bonus if you helicoil them.
Put the mount where you will have good threads.
Bonus if you helicoil them.
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks Matt. Bonus points seem pretty important for this one.
- Thread starter
- #27
Slow going, but picking away at it.
Got the transfer case rebuilt using the long spline input gear from Cruiser Outfitters
Here is a video of how sloppy the original input gear was, which I have learned explains the clunk from my transmission.
Various rebuild pics. Nothing new here.
Used the 60 speedo gear to hopefully correct my speedo a bit. Saw this from @daytonadogie 's build thread. Parts were less than $40.
Matt's motor mounts tacked in.
Got the transfer case rebuilt using the long spline input gear from Cruiser Outfitters
Here is a video of how sloppy the original input gear was, which I have learned explains the clunk from my transmission.
Various rebuild pics. Nothing new here.
Used the 60 speedo gear to hopefully correct my speedo a bit. Saw this from @daytonadogie 's build thread. Parts were less than $40.
Matt's motor mounts tacked in.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #28
This is what I have done to the motor so far. Is there any other recommended and affordable preventative maintenance that is worth doing before it goes in?
- Plugs and wires
- Rear main seal
- Oil pan
- Manifold and gaskets
- Serp belt and tensioner
- AC belt and tensioner
- Motor mounts
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,261
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Good call on the input gear. However you must have missed the idler gear oil slinger if you installed the input gear before the idler gear 
- Thread starter
- #30
Good catch. I hadn’t gotten that far in Georg’s YouTube video when I took the pic. Input gear was removed shortly after and reassembled in the correct order with idler gear first.Good call on the input gear. However you must have missed the idler gear oil slinger if you installed the input gear before the idler gear
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Great video highlighting the wear that can be resolved with the long spline gear! Mind if I share that video?
- Thread starter
- #32
Not at all! Let me know if you’d like the non-YouTube version as well.
- Thread starter
- #33
Got the firewall and fenders painted, along with POR15 and top coat applied to the frame and diff.
Took the opportunity to rebuild an 80 series PS box to upgrade to.
Took the opportunity to rebuild an 80 series PS box to upgrade to.
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- Thread starter
- #34
Also, as advertised, copied the shifter linkage idea from various threads here.
I had to bend mine a bit to clear the neutral safety swtich. Also got the transmission temp sensor installed in the test port, and you can see Matt's reverse light and NSS harness.
Fuel filter installed. Kept the pump and lines stock.
- Thread starter
- #35
Coat of paint on some other bits as well while I was at it.
Also picked up my radiator from the shop. Had them pressure test it and add a steam port.
Started collecting parts for cruise control, based on @dbbowen ’s write up.
And here is a better shot of Matt’s bolt on t-case shifter bracket.
Also picked up my radiator from the shop. Had them pressure test it and add a steam port.
Started collecting parts for cruise control, based on @dbbowen ’s write up.
And here is a better shot of Matt’s bolt on t-case shifter bracket.
What is the purpose of the steam port?
Dude. You are crushing it!
- Thread starter
- #38
I am sure someone else here is more qualified to explain this, but this is my understanding.
The thermostat on the LS engines is lower than most of the coolant passages, so any air that gets trapped in the system builds up and can cause hot spots and issues with coolant flow. To solve this, there are steam ports built into the cylinder heads which need to be vented. You can either vent into the radiator or some people tap a port into the water pump housing. I am not messing with my intake, so will just run a 1/4" hose from the stock LS steam system to the new radiator fitting.
Alternatively, the easy way to deal with this is by simply adding a junction in the upper radiator hose with a steam port like this.
