Clutch slave cylinder / fork alignment (2 Viewers)

[Living in the Past]

A bolt holding the bracket to the bell housing is missing, to the passenger side of the slave push rod.

The top motor mount puck is missing, likely the decision of the OP, since he used a short retaining bolt.

My vote is that the clutch fork is off the pivot ball.

Below is a picture of my '73 with original F engine, original rear bracket on original bell housing. If you sight down the slave cylinder/push rod, which goes straight into the fork, you can see the axis is more-or-less in line with the transmission cover screw coming out of the weld nut, just above the axis.

In the OP #1, second picture, the slave cylinder axis seems to be in line with the weld nut, but the push rod angles inboard to the fork. It may be a distortion due to camera angle, but it's worth checking out.

View attachment 3522344



Definitely a 3 speed fork. Stamped steel, pocket (not hole) for push rod, not a square boss for the tension spring hole as in the 4 speed fork. Definitely a 3 speed push rod. The 3 speed push rod has an 'acorn' style nut on the end that sits in a pocket stamped into the fork. The 4 speed push rod has a threaded end that extends through the 4 speed cast fork.


The nut is not butting up against the mount. The angle of the picture makes it appear that way, but the nut is fastened to the front bolt holding the slave cylinder in place. See the picture below:
View attachment 3522367
View attachment 3522375


View attachment 3522376

I knew what was wrong with the motor mount. The nut on the top without even a washer not a puck, castle nut and cotter pin I was surprised no one had mentioned it. Stood out like a sore thumb. Haven't paid that close of attention to the slave cylinder. So many possibilities with multiple parts that could be used.

I did check and statements about being a four speed change and 2F change are not support by dates of parts changes. Not sure when the slave cylinder changed to the passenger side. Pretty sure it was before 75. I know when the high low range for the transfer case was operated from the date the linkage pivoted odf the right motor mount. Like the fuel lines, brake lines and wiring are all run the opposite side of the exhaust to keep it away for the heat. Would have to check but believe my FJ25 clutch slave was on the right side. Believe Australia which vacuum shift was rare it was on the right side.

 

[charliemeyer007]

When I put on the master and slave with the braided SS hose I got from ebay, I added a copper washer at the slave connection, from my collection. I annealed the washer with the propane torch before install install

 

[JustJay]

A bolt holding the bracket to the bell housing is missing, to the passenger side of the slave push rod.

The top motor mount puck is missing, likely the decision of the OP, since he used a short retaining bolt.

My vote is that the clutch fork is off the pivot ball.

Below is a picture of my '73 with original F engine, original rear bracket on original bell housing. If you sight down the slave cylinder/push rod, which goes straight into the fork, you can see the axis is more-or-less in line with the transmission cover screw coming out of the weld nut, just above the axis.

In the OP #1, second picture, the slave cylinder axis seems to be in line with the weld nut, but the push rod angles inboard to the fork. It may be a distortion due to camera angle, but it's worth checking out.

View attachment 3522344



Definitely a 3 speed fork. Stamped steel, pocket (not hole) for push rod, not a square boss for the tension spring hole as in the 4 speed fork. Definitely a 3 speed push rod. The 3 speed push rod has an 'acorn' style nut on the end that sits in a pocket stamped into the fork. The 4 speed push rod has a threaded end that extends through the 4 speed cast fork.


The nut is not butting up against the mount. The angle of the picture makes it appear that way, but the nut is fastened to the front bolt holding the slave cylinder in place. See the picture below:
View attachment 3522367
View attachment 3522375


View attachment 3522376

So, if I'm tracking it sounds like we're pretty sure I've got -
3-speed fork
3-speed push rod

So, then the issue could be either -
1. wrong mount on the driver side of the engine that is holding the slave at the wrong distance and thus alignment?
2. clutch fork is off pivot ball?

* You guys are good at playing "what's wrong with this picture." I shouldn't be surprised. - I should've mentioned that I'm still catching up on correcting missing / wrong PO parts. Before the weekend, both motor mount pads were missing from driver side. Motor mount was just resting on frame. Not sure how that was missed way back when. I was able to jack the motor up and slip a lower pad in between the frame and mount and threw a bolt in to hold it, for now. I'll order another rubber pad for the upper. Anyone know the part # for the bolt, nut and pin off hand? If not, I can look further into it. Hoping to order it from Toyota. I'll order that copper gasket, too.
Also, over the weekend I tried installing the upper bolt that is missing that holds the mount to the engine but couldn't get it to thread in. Thinking something might be up with the threads or something broken off in the hole (hopefully not the case).

 

[JustJay]

Update -

Just popped the inspection cover off and found the fork definitely seems to have shifted. Moves around pretty freely. Both metal retaining clips are still there but not really holding where it should. Looks like it's about 3/4" off of where it should be, which would put me right in line with slave push rod. Now just have to figure out how to seat / clip it in place.

 

[73FJ40]

@JustJay

The two wire clips are to keep the throw-out bearing touching the clutch fork, to keep the bearing away from the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is released.

There is a clip riveted to the clutch fork that grasps the pivot ball which keeps the fork properly located. Sometimes the rivets loosen up and the clip won't grasp the pivot ball securely.

Picture courtesy of @CHCP :

 

[JustJay]

@JustJay

The two wire clips are to keep the throw-out bearing touching the clutch fork, to keep the bearing away from the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is released.

There is a clip riveted to the clutch fork that grasps the pivot ball which keeps the fork properly located. Sometimes the rivets loosen up and the clop won't grasp the pivot ball securely.

Picture courtesy of @CHCP :
View attachment 3522675

Okay. Makes sense. I suppose there probably isn't really a good way to tell if this is the case without pulling the fork? Just poked around in there and really can't tell much, other than it isn't sitting in the right place. I'm guessing I've got to pull those 2 clips and then get the fork off? Then I can tell if those rivets are loosened up. If so, I imagine I'd be replacing the fork.?

 

[Pighead]

Let us also hope that the PO swapped fork pivots when swapping bellhousings

 

[JustJay]

Another weekend, another chance to spend time in the garage.

Good news is the fork and riveted clip seems in good enough shape. Bad news is the fork is totally floating as there doesn't appear to be a pivot ball at all. As best as I can tell, the fork location will align well with the hole in the bellhousing for where the pivot ball should be, so, that seems to be a match. Hoping that I can replace the pivot ball and re-set the fork without having to get further into the clutch or transfer case removal.

Been looking around the inter web for the replacement pivot ball and coming up empty. Out of production and can't seem to find one at my usual stops. Anyone have one? Think its part #31236-60010. If not, I can throw it out on the classifieds and see what I come up with.

 

[73FJ40]

Courtesy of @Rusty 72

The pivot ball for the 3 speed clutch assembly is "long", the 4 speed is "short". This appears to be the long one.

You could try @pardion for a 3 speed pivot ball and retaining screw.

 

[JustJay]

Successful day in the garage this am. Got the new pivot ball installed (wasn’t easy but was able to maneuver just enough with fork in place) and everything re-assembled. Good alignment and all working.

Thanks all for your help.

Hopefully this thread helps someone else down the line.