78 FJ40 - Clutch slave cylinder failure (3 Viewers)

[cmcmill01]

You will have a 5/16 hole punched thru the fork, get a 5/16 or 8mm allen head capscrew then grind head down so most of the hex is gone and use a ball head in a die grinder to form a little depression for the pushrod on your clutch slave to locate in. My fork had slogged out enough that I could pull the capscrew into it with its nut but you may have to enlarge the hole slightly. This temporary fix has ended up remaining there even after a clutch job.
Thats oil on the slave, not fluid - my breather just hangs down the side of the block now. I look on it as rust prevention.

View attachment 3891309

Great thanks

 

[anothernz45]

Had a better look at your pics, that's a big hole. No reason a bigger capscrew won't work tho but perhaps of more concern is that broken release bearing spring - it looks like its been hot. They are normally just rusty, I'm wondering about the state of your bearing. As CruiserMatt said, may be better to pull the box and check bearing and pressure plate.

 

[cmcmill01]

Had a better look at your pics, that's a big hole. No reason a bigger capscrew won't work tho but perhaps of more concern is that broken release bearing spring - it looks like its been hot. They are normally just rusty, I'm wondering about the state of your bearing. As CruiserMatt said, may be better to pull the box and check bearing and pressure plate.

Bearing seems to turn smoothly, I have fitted a couple of larger washers behind the acorn nut and in front of the lock nut to see what that does. Just going to try and fit that upper-release pin, dont think its broken or is it

 

[pb4ugo]

It's not broken

 

[cmcmill01]

So update:
I managed to insert the top retaining pin using the tools below. Thanks for the advice. It took a while, but I got there in the end!

Also drilled a piece of metal and fitted to the push rod behind the acorn and infront of 2 locking nuts.

Took the FJ40 for a test drive and the clutch is working as before!!