That's better than my tape nipple!
Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters
- Thread starter bj40green
- Start date
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It seemed so simple. Take out the lens, sand down the edges left by the masking tape and give it a quick spray. The paint was still soft and the edge of the sand paper dug into another part of the cover. So sanded that down too, but in the process, stuck my fingernal into another part. Sanded that down and found the paint was too soft, so ended up making a mess of it. A quick visit to the hardware shop, bought the paint stripper, stripped th paint off - which also stripped the surface filler! I've now re-filled it, waiting for that to dry so I can sand it smooth and start again!HUMPH!!
dont worry, It took me 2 sprays and multiple color tests. I am still going to redo it once because something in the paint keeps causing imperfections. I believe there is something in the air where I am painting that is landing as I am painting.
- Thread starter
- #124
Bubbling and cracking can be caused by several things:
- It's too hot so the paint dries too fast.
- Different brands of primer and paint. They don't like each other.
- The time between two layers is too short. The last paint is dissolving the previous layer.
Most common mistake is that the time between sprays is too short. Leave it alone for half an hour minimum before you do a next layer.
Although the paint is "dry" for dust within a few minutes it will stay soft for hours.
I had a cluster 99% perfect, 3 layers of priming, 3 layers of paint and 3 layers of clear coat, left it for 4 days, picked it up but held it a bit too tight and had my "signature" fingerprint in it!
Rudi
Ive never had these types of issues before painting any small pieces...
I think it is the paint type itself. I am letting everything dry in a sealed box so nothing can settle. I spray these small parts in a make shift 3 sided spray booth I mock up down in our High rises' "basement"
I think it is the paint type itself. I am letting everything dry in a sealed box so nothing can settle. I spray these small parts in a make shift 3 sided spray booth I mock up down in our High rises' "basement"
Double sided tape and then glued the EL light to that..
Not very pretty at the back though....
The +ve is soldered to the track under the backlight cover (without bulb). Put a blob of hot glue on it after that.
The cluster is not as good as I wanted it to be, but maybe I shall do it again..........not likely!
1 kilometer to go before zero - I did that to make sure the numbers lined up.
Not very pretty at the back though....
The +ve is soldered to the track under the backlight cover (without bulb). Put a blob of hot glue on it after that.
The cluster is not as good as I wanted it to be, but maybe I shall do it again..........not likely!
1 kilometer to go before zero - I did that to make sure the numbers lined up.
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Wow! What a great thread!
Here is my humble contribution; page 2 details complet rebuild of my 55 odometer:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...ent-clusters-will-70-cluster-work-74-a-2.html
Here is my humble contribution; page 2 details complet rebuild of my 55 odometer:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...ent-clusters-will-70-cluster-work-74-a-2.html
- Thread starter
- #129
barrel connector on the back of the gauge cluster
I had a question from a fellow MUD member today about the pin numbers. The FSM is not 100% clear were pin3 (+12V from ign. key) is.
Here is the barrel connector for 3rd and 4th generation clusters in addition to the FSM.
Rudi
I had a question from a fellow MUD member today about the pin numbers. The FSM is not 100% clear were pin3 (+12V from ign. key) is.
Here is the barrel connector for 3rd and 4th generation clusters in addition to the FSM.
Rudi
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- Thread starter
- #130
barrel connector part 2
Below you see pics of a 3rd and a 4th generation cluster.
Altough the PCB looks (and is) different, the barrel connectors and their connections are identical.
3rd gen. cluster.
4th gen. cluster.
This cluster was almost fried due to some fooling around with the AMP meter by the PO. I had to bridge 7 (SEVEN!) tracks to get it back to work.
Rudi
Below you see pics of a 3rd and a 4th generation cluster.
Altough the PCB looks (and is) different, the barrel connectors and their connections are identical.
3rd gen. cluster.
4th gen. cluster.
This cluster was almost fried due to some fooling around with the AMP meter by the PO. I had to bridge 7 (SEVEN!) tracks to get it back to work.
Rudi
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- Thread starter
- #131
barrel connector part 3
And here is the barrel connector on the harness side with the wire colors.
Rudi
And here is the barrel connector on the harness side with the wire colors.
Rudi
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Is the circular plug that attaches to the guage cluster available somewhere? Along with the pins. Thinking about making up some complete wiring harnesses.
I am looking for a spare 3rd gen cluster for my '78 40 (a Sept '77) build...
- Thread starter
- #134
The circular plug is actually a tube socket from the old days when Radio's and TV's had tubes instead of transistors.
Try google for tube socket and you'll find pics like this:
Rudi
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Looks familiar now, thanks.
Hi Guys
Fantastic thread and great reading . Well Done to all concerned.
I have a newbie question
Will an Australian FJ Clusters, Gauges & Odo meters be the same as an Australian BJ Clusters, Gauges & Odo meters.
Both systems are 12 volt and from my very limited understanding they also look identical
Just picked one up off Ebay and thought I would restore it first whilst the original is still in the vehicle.
Fantastic thread and great reading . Well Done to all concerned.
I have a newbie question
Will an Australian FJ Clusters, Gauges & Odo meters be the same as an Australian BJ Clusters, Gauges & Odo meters.
Both systems are 12 volt and from my very limited understanding they also look identical
Just picked one up off Ebay and thought I would restore it first whilst the original is still in the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #138
Hi Ian,
There is no difference between FJ and BJ clusters as long as they are in the same year range.
Look carefully at the gauges and at the back. When they are the same you're OK.
Post pics if you're not sure.
Rudi
BTW, if you don't mind asking, how much did you pay and in what condition is it?
There is no difference between FJ and BJ clusters as long as they are in the same year range.
Look carefully at the gauges and at the back. When they are the same you're OK.
Post pics if you're not sure.
Rudi
BTW, if you don't mind asking, how much did you pay and in what condition is it?
Hi guys
Here are some pics of my new cluster that i picked up today
Going to need some work to bring it back
Can someone advise the name of the colour on the bezel
View attachment 639745
Check out the original factory print at the top of the cluster (pic 4)
Cool
Here are some pics of my new cluster that i picked up today
Going to need some work to bring it back
Can someone advise the name of the colour on the bezel
View attachment 639745
Check out the original factory print at the top of the cluster (pic 4)
Cool
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