Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (2 Viewers)

[John McVicker]

This is a really great thread. For those of us that wish to keep the stock cluster & gages there is no better source of information than this thread. The information provided by this thread, including all who have contributed & most of all, the expert guidance by Rudi has kept my 2'75 cluster alive. I am thinking I am not alone.

Thank you bj40green.

John

 

[bj40green]

Hi guys
Here are some pics of my new cluster that i picked up today
Going to need some work to bring it back
Can someone advise the name of the colour on the bezel

View attachment 639745

Check out the original factory print at the top of the cluster (pic 4)
Cool

The official color name is silver / pewter. Don't know the color number, but somebody here will tell you.

I use silver for my clusters and one or more coats of clear.
After the first coat of clear the silver changes to aluminum/grey.
The more coats of clear the more shiny it will become.
Don't forget to do your ash tray and glove box in the same color.

Rudi

 

[jusmud]

Hi Rudi

Thanks for the info so far
I nhave just begun to slow pull aprt the cluster

Have noticed that the rubber around the glass is in really good condition and was hoping I could reuse these
Any ideas on how to remove the rubbers without damage. ie. would soaking in hot soapy water work?

Thanks Ian

 

[bj40green]

Hi Ian,

I removed those rubbers in the past by slowly and carefully pulling them off. They are glued with a contact cement.
Next you have to clean the rubbers and the front with thinner or so and in the end you have to glue it back.

I write "in the past" because on my last cluster resto I let them sit and just take the glasses out by folding the edge a bit open.
When you paint the front with a rattle can and hold the can vertical above the front from left to right there will be hardly any overspray on the rubbers. You an also put some vaseline on the rubbers before the paint job. That way you wipe the rubbers clean and .................tadaa! they look like new!

Rudi

 

[jusmud]

Thanks Rudi
Here is the progress so far
I think i will just take it slow & steady

 

[boga357]

Will the cluster gauges work on a Chevy 350? Or do I need to use aftermarket gauges in a custom cluster.

 

[bj40green]

Will the cluster gauges work on a Chevy 350? Or do I need to use aftermarket gauges in a custom cluster.

The cluster gauges and senders are a set.
Each gauge has it's own sender.
As long as you use the Toyota senders it wil work fine.
The problem can be the size and / or the thread.
Maybe you have to use adaptors for this.

Good luck .

Rudi

 

[boga357]

The cluster gauges and senders are a set.
Each gauge has it's own sender.
As long as you use the Toyota senders it wil work fine.
The problem can be the size and / or the thread.
Maybe you have to use adaptors for this.

Good luck .

Rudi

Thanks. None of them are reading right now. The speedo works, will have to check ohms and senders. Can you get to the fuel sender under the heater or do I need to drop the tank?

 

[bj40green]

Thanks. None of them are reading right now. The speedo works, will have to check ohms and senders. Can you get to the fuel sender under the heater or do I need to drop the tank?

You don't say what year your truck is. Put that in your sig line so you don't get that question every time.
Different years, different tanks and senders.
Start with the fuse and power if all 3 gauges don't work before you start pulling your truck apart.

Rudi

 

[boga357]

Rudi

I have a 79 fj40. It has a panel below the heater in the rear that looks like a sender/tank access. The high beam, indicators, and light bulbs work. But nothing on gauges.

 

[bj40green]

The power for the 3 gauges comes from the "heater" fuse.
Check the fuse and the clips that holding the fuse, for corrosion.
If you have voltage on the fuse you can take the cluster out (disconnect the battery first) and check for voltage on pin3 of the barrel connector.

Rudi

 

[jusmud]

Started to disassemble the cluster today.Face plate looks ok with no real marks & no rust
I stripped the paint off the bezel to find small surface rust all over.So have sanded back with 180 sand paper & will finish off with 200 then will paint & clear coat
Have found the glass inserts to be chipped around the edges so might look at replacing these also.
I am sure a glass supplier will be able to cut to size abd thickness
Any ideas how to smarten up the high beam blue insert as it has a number of deep scratches and its too small to hold on the bench buffer
Can these be replaced?

Next step the guages.

 

[boga357]

The power for the 3 gauges comes from the "heater" fuse.
Check the fuse and the clips that holding the fuse, for corrosion.
If you have voltage on the fuse you can take the cluster out (disconnect the battery first) and check for voltage on pin3 of the barrel connector.

Rudi

Which one is pin 3? I have tested the ohms on the gauges and it jumps all over the place. Are the pins numbered clockwise?

 

[boga357]

Ok Rudi. Found the numbering sequence on previous post. I have power at the #3. What next?

 

[bj40green]

Any ideas how to smarten up the high beam blue insert as it has a number of deep scratches and its too small to hold on the bench buffer
Can these be replaced?

Next step the guages.

This is how I do it: Place a piece of sandingpaper 500 or higher on your workbench. Move the lens in circles over the sandingpaper until the scratches are gone. Make the surface shiny with some silicon spray. The stuff you use to make your dash and interior shiny.

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

Ok Rudi. Found the numbering sequence on previous post. I have power at the #3. What next?

So you have a '79 FJ40 with a 4th generation cluster (with the 50-0-50 AMP meter). Right?
All 3 gauges don't work.
You have 12V on pin3 when the key is in the "on" position.
NOTE: The OIL gauge shows nothing until the engine runs and oil pressure is build up.
The FUEL gauge should work if the wiring and sender are OK.
BUT..... the FUEL gauge is also the power supplier for the TEMP gauge due to a build in Voltage Regulator.
The TEMP gauge will show nothing until the engine heats up.

My first question is: Do they show totally nothing when the key is "on" or also when the engine is running?
I assume that all 3 gauges are dead even while the engine is running.

Here is a pic of the back of a 3rd generation cluster.
Yours is a 4th generation cluster and looks a bit different but the layout of the tracks is the same.
NOTE: If you use a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) the intermittent readings will be difficult to see due to the way a DMM works. It's better to use an analog meter (the old style with a needle) for this job.

If you feel more comfortable with a test light, here is the same pic but now with the visuals instead of the Voltages.

Do the measurements and report back here so we can figure out why they don't work.



Rudi

 

[jusmud]

Thanks Rudi.

I will give the 500 sandpaper a go.

Do you know if the blue lens can still be purchased from any of the after market boys.

I must also say that your knowledge on all things Clusters, Gauges & Odo meters is outstanding and you are an absolute credit to the IH8MUD family.

THANK YOU.

 

[bj40green]

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the praise. I like to share my knowledge especially because most Mudders are not electrical savvy.

The lens.... there is no part number for it so I think it will be difficult to source one but you can always try the vendors section and the classifieds.
I think the full name is: high beam indicator lens.

Good luck,

Rudi

 

[boga357]

Trying to find this thread on computer

 

[boga357]

So you have a '79 FJ40 with a 4th generation cluster (with the 50-0-50 AMP meter). Right?
All 3 gauges don't work.
You have 12V on pin3 when the key is in the "on" position.
NOTE: The OIL gauge shows nothing until the engine runs and oil pressure is build up.
The FUEL gauge should work if the wiring and sender are OK.
BUT..... the FUEL gauge is also the power supplier for the TEMP gauge due to a build in Voltage Regulator.
The TEMP gauge will show nothing until the engine heats up.

My first question is: Do they show totally nothing when the key is "on" or also when the engine is running?
I assume that all 3 gauges are dead even while the engine is running.

Here is a pic of the back of a 3rd generation cluster.
Yours is a 4th generation cluster and looks a bit different but the layout of the tracks is the same.
NOTE: If you use a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) the intermittent readings will be difficult to see due to the way a DMM works. It's better to use an analog meter (the old style with a needle) for this job.
View attachment 640795

If you feel more comfortable with a test light, here is the same pic but now with the visuals instead of the Voltages.
View attachment 640797

Do the measurements and report back here so we can figure out why they don't work.



Rudi

Rudi

I have power until I get to pin 4. It is blank and the output to temp is dead as well. I assume that the problem is getting power from 3 on the clip to pin 4.. Either way, what is next?

I also have an aftermarket temp gauge that works attached to the dash, but I want to remove it and go back to original.

Thanks in advance