Clean coolant passages with vinegar (2 Viewers)

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I recently bought a used engine from a Japanese half-cut. It's in great condition, except that it seems to have been left long-term with just a trace of coolant/water in, and the inside of the coolant passages is rusty. I have flushed out a lot of rust sludge with a hose, but I am still concened that the degree of rust will compromise heat transfer from the engine to the coolant. Plus I just don't like it being there. The block has what I would consider a resonable degree of rust (dry, yellow-brown iron oxide) and does not concern me too much, but the head seems to be rustier, with a dark, hydrated iron oxide look.

The engine is partially stripped, all the oil-filled components are still on (so no problem to get wet externally, things like fuel injection pump, vacuum pump (it's a diesel), are properly blanked off. I plan to make blanking plates for the water pump coolant passages and pour in some sort of acid via the thermostat housing opening in the head, then later drain it out at the drain cock and flush.

Where I live, it's not easy to get hold of industrial chemicals. Ideally I would use phosphoric or oxalic acid, but no chance to get those here. I can get large quantities of vinegar though.

Apart from the awful smell, is there any reason not to use vinegar/acetic acid to clean out the rust? I would flush with an alkali (bicarbonate of soda, a weak lye solution or sodium hydroxide) afterwards to remove residual acid.

The only other thing I know I could get hold of would be cola, but I know that would be too weak. Possibly I could find citric acid, but I don't think that will do much for anything but light surface rust.

All core plugs will be replaced of course, but after treatment.

Thanks
 
It won't hurt. How much rust it removes will depend entirely on how much is there. IMHO, citric acid removes more rust than vinegar.
 
@NLXTACY posted a while back in great detail how he did a cooling system flush. IIRC he used vinegar as well. I've got the link to the posts in his thread on my computer at home so I'll check tonight and post up. I plan on using his same method when I get around to doing my cooling system refurb (HOPEFULLY!) next spring.
 
Can you get Muriatic Acid? (weak HCL). If not, a strong cleaning vinegar (up to 75% CH3COOH acetic acid) works well. I've used it on radiators. Not sure you need a neutralizer beyond copious flushing, but couldn't hurt. Don't use the leftover for salads. :oops:

 
Thanks all. I'll look in a baking supply shop to see about citric acid, if not, it's getting filled with vinegar.

Can you get Muriatic Acid? (weak HCL). If not, a strong cleaning vinegar (up to 75% CH3COOH acetic acid) works well. I've used it on radiators. Not sure you need a neutralizer beyond copious flushing, but couldn't hurt. Don't use the leftover for salads. :oops:


I do actually have some rust remover solution from the local hardware shop which says it is <9 % HCl, but I'm not to keen on using it as a first attempt.
 
Muriatic is the best. BUT you have to keep it away from any aluminum. It eats it like a dog with a chunk of prime rib. Eats it GONE.

Mark...
 
What ever you use, a good post flush should suffice. FYI I use my shop vac for air-flushing the lines.
It will never produce too much pressure to damage anything for sure. I have an adapter to
use on the heater core My thoughts are it's an oft overlooked part of coolant cleaning and flushing. Last time
I did a thorough full on replacement I measured exactly the amount going in. I was within 200ml of what the factory
manual said it should accept.
 

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