I wire brushed it till the base glue. (so not to bare metal) Then Painted the glue layer. After that some degreasing, isolation mats Reckon and armaflex (europe products).
Builds "Chunk+12ht" version 2.0 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter dogfishlake
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I wire brushed it till the base glue. (so not to bare metal) Then Painted the glue layer. After that some degreasing, isolation mats Reckon and armaflex (europe products).
You need to get Buddy a beer koozie
https://www.amazon.com/Suzy-Kuzy-Be...74685&psc=1&th=1#immersive-view_1544284149955
- Thread starter
- #303
Pretty much got the inside of the roof stripped of that wicked headliner pad glue. "Gorilla Glue" needs to change its slogan to "The SECOND toughest glue on planet earth". I got it with some super nasty paint stripper.
The roof has its fair share of little hail dents. Not big ones but lots of them. With the inside smooth I can see/feel them and push the dents out easily. Don't even need a hammer, just the slightly curved face of a 1/2" extension and a little push seems to work well. Nice bonus is after a quick spray paint guide coat sanding the inside with a DA, the dents show up easily.
The roof has its fair share of little hail dents. Not big ones but lots of them. With the inside smooth I can see/feel them and push the dents out easily. Don't even need a hammer, just the slightly curved face of a 1/2" extension and a little push seems to work well. Nice bonus is after a quick spray paint guide coat sanding the inside with a DA, the dents show up easily.
- Thread starter
- #304
On other Chunk topics; I had planned on using satin black urethane over 3m Rocker Schutz on the bottom of the truck but I kept stumbling on Raptor Liner brand bed liner. I really haven't been a fan of bedliner but mainly because my only experience has been cheap air dry stuff that doesn't seem to last at all. The Raptor stuff is pretty cheap (like me) and is a 2k product. It is well liked on a lot of hot rod forums, and I see the fj company is using it on their 40 tubs. Also the other day a customer brough some parts for me to powder coat driving a Jeep he had coated with the stuff on its exterior. It looked really nice - kind of a semi smooth bumpy finish. He really liked the stuff and uses it a lot in his Jeep builds . Even though I have lots of satin black paint, I'm leaning hard this way for the bottom.
For the inside, I am cheaping out and testing making my own lizard skin. I ordered a bucket of 3m glass bubbles to mix with my chassis paint to make a thermal barrier for the inside of the truck. We'll see how that works. More ideas from hot rod forums.
For the inside, I am cheaping out and testing making my own lizard skin. I ordered a bucket of 3m glass bubbles to mix with my chassis paint to make a thermal barrier for the inside of the truck. We'll see how that works. More ideas from hot rod forums.
This will work. Lizard Skin is nice stuff, but you can replicate it like you suggest for a lot less $$.... and you don’t need their application kit - just a shutz or undercoat gun.
Are you going to carpet over it? I’m debating prepping & priming my floor - and doing microspheres + gloss brown paint instead of carpet. I’m not sure it will be as durable as I’m hoping though.
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- #306
I'm going to use a schutz gun for it. I am confident it will work well too. I don't know for sure what I will use for the paimt material with the glass spheres but I have a few things around. I had some industrial epoxy paint at work from a job where we powder coated a couple hundred big car parking platforms for an automated park garage. We had to apply the epoxy on the strips where the tires went. It was tough stuff and a nice grey color. I might see if I still have some of that and use it.
I am going to use carpet. I bet in your case the paint would work the same whether you had the glass beads in it or not, especially if it were a 2k. I thon on the Aircraft Spruce site they describe the glass beads a more of a structural filler anyway.
- Thread starter
- #307
I got a few goodies from the brown Santa today.
#1- My 3m glass spheres for the liner. I read some plus and minus things on diy insulation. One of the sites said I had to get a certain type (k20 in this case) to have insulation properties. Lucky for me, that's what I bought. Still a maybe but nothing ventured, nothing gained.
#2 - I bought a 12v power supply for my hokey home zinc plating/chromate set up. Should make it more controlled.
#3 - I got my Raptor liner kit for the bottom of the truck. Between price, reviews, and what I have seen myself I just had to go for it.
#1- My 3m glass spheres for the liner. I read some plus and minus things on diy insulation. One of the sites said I had to get a certain type (k20 in this case) to have insulation properties. Lucky for me, that's what I bought. Still a maybe but nothing ventured, nothing gained.
#2 - I bought a 12v power supply for my hokey home zinc plating/chromate set up. Should make it more controlled.
#3 - I got my Raptor liner kit for the bottom of the truck. Between price, reviews, and what I have seen myself I just had to go for it.
- Thread starter
- #308
I have been working on Chunk's roof. It really isn't all that bad but that big flat panel shows it all so there is a bit of time flattening it out. I'm almost halfway through with glaze work and really hope to be ready for primer/surfacer by the end of the weekend. I'm falling off of my hoped for pace a bit so gotta bust a move.
- Thread starter
- #309
of course, Chunk will be getting a Bowfin Cruisers roof rack. Probably in "Evo Grey" color. I want to match roof rack, stripes, wheels, and maybe bumpers (if I don't run stockers) in the same color. Hope that's not too much. I like the white truck with the grey color.
(This is my buddy @Ocho77 's truck now. The rack went with it, but gives the idea).
(This is my buddy @Ocho77 's truck now. The rack went with it, but gives the idea).
Zinc plating is pretty forgiving as far as current and it covers really well even around corners. That power supply should do you well. Supposed to plate about .001" per hour so for anything on a vehicle I give it an hour.
For me plating is easy it's the yellow chromate that I'm having trouble dialing in. It either isn't dark enough or wipes off or both.
For me plating is easy it's the yellow chromate that I'm having trouble dialing in. It either isn't dark enough or wipes off or both.
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- #311
I appreciate the help. I know nearly nothing about it but I will learn. Most of my stuff is going to a large plating operation in Grand Rapids. I powder coated a truck frame for the owner and he said he would see my little pile of parts through so that's really cool. I know I will have little things I missed plus maybe some items off of the 12h-t that I really don't want out of my sight so I hope to have my own plating rig ready.
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- #312
Getting the sealer out of the gutter was made a little easier by running a flap wheel sander on its edge and grinding the sealer out. It made wicked smoke but was really easy to tell when I was to metal because it would spark and I could move on. The tighter part along the A pillar was too narrow and I had to scrape that out. O had to open up the shop door because it got so smokey. Looked like Spicoli's van with the smoke rolling out the door.
- Thread starter
- #313
The roof should be ready for final prime/blocking today. No major filling but then again, just a ton of small imperfections that would otherwise show because it's such a long relatively flat panel. I stripped the factory paint then pushed out the little hail dents from the back side. After that I used filler to even out for priming/block sanding. It was super thin where I filled because of getting the dents out and I like that. I did one test spot and blocked it out and it came out really good. I don't want to spray much here at home because the mess would be terrible and I dont want to build a temporary paint room here. My plan is to prep everything for priming here, then take it to the powder coat shop and finish the coatings there- Raptor Liner, Heat insulation, primer, paint.
- Thread starter
- #314
Boring body work continues. I put a thin layer of waterproof filler over the patches on both sides and went to work on the right side. There was a crease behind the rear wheel that pushed the body line almost out so it was tough getting the shape back. It has a layer of filler over it but I was able to get it really close so at least the skim coat is thin. Same for the rocker, between welding the trim holes and the welded in section, no getting around a skim coat there too. Pretty happy though. Next will be to sand off the rest of the original paint, do the glaze putty, and ready for primer.
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- #315
And of course, the whole time I'm busting my arse sanding, Buddy remains ever vigilant
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- #316
Aaaand,
This set of cable locked axles just might end up under Chunk
This set of cable locked axles just might end up under Chunk
Does it come with the interior controls?
That little bit I can see of that bed looks pretty nice too.
That little bit I can see of that bed looks pretty nice too.
- Thread starter
- #318
Yes, I am getting the controls with them too. They are still overseas, getting crated and shipped in the next month. They have those wierd little rings welded on the tops for springs or something but they will get cut off. I'm planning on going through them to make sure all is good and reseal them plus refinish the outsides. It's a tough pill to swallow expense wise but the truck on the whole is so far staying on or under budget so I am going for it.
I wish that box next to them was mine!
Cool. Good find and even better with the controls. This truck is really going to be something nice.
Funny, it looks like exhaust tubing. I wondered if it was for some sort of overload spring or home brew bump stop.
Funny, it looks like exhaust tubing. I wondered if it was for some sort of overload spring or home brew bump stop.
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