Chewbacca's Birfield Grease Guide

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Used the new terrain tamer spindle / birf greaser on the recent 30k bearing repack break job.

Worked as advertised, though it was a cool piece of kit as it lubes the spindle, spindle needle bearings and refills the knuckle for the birf.

What interval are y'all repacking your bearings at? I need to get a regiment for preventive maintenance figured out.

George over at cruiser bros had it in stock, good shop, great service.

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Does that piece stay in place or is that a part/tool you install to grease and then remove it after servicing the hubs?
 
Does that piece stay in place or is that a part/tool you install to grease and then remove it after servicing the hubs?

That tool is only to lubricate and then remove. You can see that from the picture that there is no way to install the drive flanges with the tool installed.
 
Does that piece stay in place or is that a part/tool you install to grease and then remove it after servicing the hubs?
It's a super handy tool that's removed. Filling the burfield cavity from above with Molly grease as specified in the FSM does the job.

However, this nice little piece of kit for me is trail insurance and peace of mind because It forces grease up the burfield shaft and past the needle bearings on the spindle into the birf cavity, It's a better way to grease the burfields ensuring the needle bearings or old style sleeve receive lubricant.

Cruiser Brothers has them in stock. TTSGT Spindle Greasing Tool - CruiserBrothers - https://cruiserbrothers.com/shop/tools/ttsgt-spindle-greasing-tool-tt/
 
I run the Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease in the knuckle and Lucas Oil 10005-60-10PK Red Tacky Grease for the wheel bearings. Good success doing that.
This is my first time doing birfs and I bought 4lbs of the same grease you linked. I have never seen a grease this texture before, it seems very thick and almost like it is rubbery? Is this normal and ok to use? When watching youtube videos it is hard to tell if it is the same texture as I received. I was also wondering if there is a reason you used the Lucas Red Tacky for your wheel bearings instead of the Valvoline as well? (it says it can be used for wheel bearings on the tub.) Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

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This is my first time doing birfs and I bought 4lbs of the same grease you linked. I have never seen a grease this texture before, it seems very thick and almost like it is rubbery? Is this normal and ok to use? When watching youtube videos it is hard to tell if it is the same texture as I received. I was also wondering if there is a reason you used the Lucas Red Tacky for your wheel bearings instead of the Valvoline as well? (it says it can be used for wheel bearings on the tub.) Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

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Yep. That is the stuff. I use it. Have fun. I need to do my BJ73.
I use the red Valvoline on my bearings (and to lube everything that has a zerk.)
 
Yep. That is the stuff. I use it. Have fun. I need to do my BJ73.
I use the red Valvoline on my bearings (and to lube everything that has a zerk.)
Yours has the same texture? Don't know why but it makes me nervous lol. You back your birfs and the housing with this? Already have everything torn down. Just waiting to figure out the grease and then put it back together.
 
Yours has the same texture? Don't know why but it makes me nervous lol. You back your birfs and the housing with this? Already have everything torn down. Just waiting to figure out the grease and then put it back together.
That grease will work fine. It does have a thicker and different texture than non moly. If you are worried you have old grease or a bad batch or something just buy one more tub or canister and make sure it is the same. I use a non moly red and tacky on the wheel bearings. I understand that your moly grease says OK for wheel bearings but I would rather have a dedicated wheel bearing grease.
 
That grease will work fine. It does have a thicker and different texture than non moly. If you are worried you have old grease or a bad batch or something just buy one more tub or canister and make sure it is the same. I use a non moly red and tacky on the wheel bearings. I understand that your moly grease says OK for wheel bearings but I would rather have a dedicated wheel bearing grease.
Appreciate it. I bought 4 tubs through Amazon. guess I will open them all up and see if they look the same lol. Do you have a specific red and tacky (Lucas I am guessing?) that you recommend that works well with this Valvoline stuff? From what I understand they both need to be lithium base so that they do not have a bad reaction? Thanks, sorry for all the questions, very new to this stuff.
 
Appreciate it. I bought 4 tubs through Amazon. guess I will open them all up and see if they look the same lol. Do you have a specific red and tacky (Lucas I am guessing?) that you recommend that works well with this Valvoline stuff? From what I understand they both need to be lithium base so that they do not have a bad reaction? Thanks, sorry for all the questions, very new to this stuff.
Technically the wheel bearings will remain separate so the grease shouldn't mix but I did overfill my housing slightly so I had some mixing. I personally used lucas red and tacky and Lucas heavy duty mining moly grease. I think as long as base ingredient is the same mixing is ok like you said
 
Yours has the same texture? Don't know why but it makes me nervous lol. You back your birfs and the housing with this? Already have everything torn down. Just waiting to figure out the grease and then put it back together.
Yes it does have the same consistency. I have used it several times. Always looks like that. It is fine.
 
@NoMoreXJ : If the texture bothers you Valvoline makes another Moly fortified grease called VALVOLINE PALLADIUM sold at NAPA stores in the US. It's considered a premium grease by Valvoline, has a smoother texture (FWIW) and very good specs including 3% Moly (more Moly than in the Synthetic).

Been using the Palladium grease myself for decades for the steering knuckles and slip yolks of the driveshaft. It is also approved for wheel bearings but if you prefer you can use anything else approved for wheel bearings, everyone has their own favorite (I use Mobil 1 full synthetic for wheel bearings but there are a dozen other good choices).

IMHO if there's any place on an 80 Series that needs more Molybdenum it's in the steering knuckles/CV joints and Slip yolks. If you want to "boost"
the percent of Moly inside the CV joints or knuckles, IME, you can add some Loctite LB-8012 Lubricant. Some people might be uncomfortable doing that but IME it is compatible with Lithium based greases (you can do a grease compatibility test first). FWIW
 
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