Builds chap79's Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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@chap79 excellent build thread you are so crazy but in a good way I will spend a few hours reading and learning from you and get a lot of inspiration from you

I decided to listen to your advice and not go to the T-Max and go with heavy duty Blue Sea 7622

One question the installation calls from one line to get starter signal to the 7622 to give a delay after startup where did you connect this on the rig?

What kind of Fuze did you use on the main power line?

For the main power line I used a very heavy industrial triple insulated welding cable i had an Australian dual battery system the last 12 years that died on the last trip to the desert :(

Waiting for your replay before pushing the buy button on Amazon

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chap79

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@chap79 excellent build thread you are so crazy but in a good way I will spend a few hours reading and learning from you and get a lot of inspiration from you

I decided to listen to your advice and not go to the T-Max and go with heavy duty Blue Sea 7622

One question the installation calls from one line to get starter signal to the 7622 to give a delay after startup where did you connect this on the rig?

What kind of Fuze did you use on the main power line?

For the main power line I used a very heavy industrial triple insulated welding cable i had an Australian dual battery system the last 12 years that died on the last trip to the desert :(

Waiting for your replay before pushing the buy button on Amazon

View attachment 2158008
Let’s see if I can explain this correctly, you don’t have to run the lines for the start delay. These wires would be for if you had multiple engines (marine setup). So there is no need to tap into your ignition wires, here’s an page from the installation manual to help explain.
Also for fuse protection, it is not recommended per Blue Sea to have fuses between the batteries is you can going to cross connect them for things like jump starting or winching. (Also stated in the instructions so you can see I’m not just talking out my arse). I would recommend using at least 2/0 or 4/0 cables to get the most out of it.

If you have any more questions please let me know. :beer:

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http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf
 

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chap79

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@Desert Dino I should also add that for the ACR remote switch I did use a weather sealed type ATC fuse holder at the house battery and another at the fusible link when I ran the voltmeter connection.
 
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Let’s see if I can explain this correctly, you don’t have to run the lines for the start delay. These wires would be for if you had multiple engines (marine setup). So there is no need to tap into your ignition wires, here’s an page from the installation manual to help explain.
Also for fuse protection, it is not recommended per Blue Sea to have fuses between the batteries is you can going to cross connect them for things like jump starting or winching. (Also stated in the instructions so you can see I’m not just talking out my arse). I would recommend using at least 2/0 or 4/0 cables to get the most out of it.

If you have any more questions please let me know. :beer:

View attachment 2158190

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf


I was referring to the brown wire Isoletion No 1, I now it is optional. You do not use this option?
 

chap79

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@Desert Dino I should also add that for the ACR remote switch I did use a weather sealed type ATC fuse holder at the house battery and another at the fusible link when I ran the voltmeter connection.
I was referring to the brown wire Isoletion No 1, I now it is optional. You do not use this option?
Correct, I did not use it.
 
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So the meaning is there will be no time delay on starting the engine?. It will link as soon as the main battery will reach the link voltage?
 

chap79

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So the meaning is there will be no time delay on starting the engine?. It will link as soon as the main battery will reach the link voltage?

From the instructions

"Start Isolation or Engine Isolation. The isolation inputs enable one of two functions depending on
how the inputs are configured.
NOTE: The ML-Series ACR can be configured for Start Isolation or Engine Isolation, but not both.
• Start Isolation - Temporary isolation (3−5 minutes) of house loads from the engine circuit during engine
cranking to protect sensitive electronics. Configure Start Isolation when there are heavy cranking loads
causing sags and spikes that might damage electronics in the House circuit. See page 3.
• Engine Isolation - Isolate two engines while both are running to protect engine electronics, and to
maximize alternator output. Configure Engine Isolation when the engine manufacturer requires it, and
when there are separate batteries for each engine. See page 3."

The start isolation would be necessary to protect radar, sonar, running computer equipment, life support...
 
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Since you guys are discussing “Dual Battery Systems”. I know Blue Sea is an excellent Manufacturer, what makes there system better than others? I bought/installed this Hellroaring Isolator like 10 years ago. It’s been great: you can combine batteries for winching, you can self jumpstart yourself with a flip of a switch. You have to connect everything to the starting battery (difficult sometimes with so many accessories).
A few years after the Hellroaring Isolator I installed, the market started to shift towards microprocessors controlled Isolators like The National Luna brand and the IBS-DBS intelligent type Isolators. Please explain what’s so much better about them?
Why such big of a wire? Voltage drop? I think I didn’t use anything bigger than 1/0 awg.
PS: sorry to sidetrack your build-thread.
 
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chap79

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Since you guys are discussing “Dual Battery Systems”. I know Blue Sea is an excellent Manufacturer, what makes there system better than others? I bought/installed this Hellroaring Isolator like 10 years ago. It’s been great: you can combine batteries for winching, you can self jumpstart yourself with a flip of a switch. You have to connect everything to the starting battery (difficult sometimes with so many accessories).
A few years after the Hellroaring Isolator I installed, the market started to shift towards microprocessors controlled Isolators like The National Luna brand and the IBS-DBS intelligent type Isolators. Please explain what’s so much better about them?
Why such big of a wire? Voltage drop? I think I didn’t use anything bigger than 1/0 awg.
PS: sorry to sidetrack your build-thread.
When I was shopping for a dual battery setup I looked solely for the features and specs that fit what I wanted. I wanted a system that could be used for both a house system and emergency recovery, the ability to link and separate the batteries from inside the cab, and could withstand over 400amps draw SAFELY during winching.

The Hellroaring BIC-95300B is only rated for up to a 300amp load for 20 seconds and then a 5 minute cool down period. This is only acceptable for very short pulls and didn't meet MY requirements. The Blue Sea 7622 ACR is rated for 500amps continuous load when the proper wire gauge is used. A 445amp load at 5 ft in length at a sustained draw of 5 minutes requires a 4/0 wire.

Additionally the HR Isolator is only rated at 95amps if not used in the backup battery setup. Other dual battery systems were somewhere between the 100-150 max amperes range which still didn't meet my standard. I know folks have been using these off the shelf systems and most have been very satisfied with their results. I tend to over build to whatever my most extreme use will be. And since the wife and I usually venture into the unknown just the two of us I wanted the most robust system I could get. Also since the Blue Sea ACR is not a complete system I had to build the system myself which made me very intimate with how it functions.


Hellroaring Specs
hellroaring.JPG


Blue Sea 7622 ACR Specs
bluesea.JPG


Wire Size Chart.jpg
 
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Thanks for the lecture. Would keep the Blue Sea ACR in mind when it comes time to upgrade.
 

GW Nugget

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I read you are netting a 4.5" lift from 75mm HD Slinkies? Geez. Mine sits at 24 with a body 1" lift.
Post up a side shot of your adventure rig on flat ground when you can please, thanks.
 

chap79

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It’s with a heavy heart I update this thread. At 282k my 1FZ-FE gave up the ghost.
Haven’t opened up the bottom end yet but I’m pretty sure a piston rod gave way. Sounds like a box of rocks being shook when you crank it over. Dropped the lower pan and have quite a bit of metal in there. Pulled the valve cover to inspect the top as well but it looked great. Chain and guides still intact.

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chap79

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It is sad. I’ve religiously maintained this truck, but I have also driven the crap out of it. 140k miles in 5 years. I’ve wheeled it hard and it has brought the wife and I to some beautiful isolated spots and had always gotten us home. She gave up the ghost 120 miles from home at the end of a epic trip through the Arizona Peace Trail in which we logged over 2000 total miles.
 

chap79

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Had you been doing regular Blackstone oil analysis?
No, I had not. Hadn’t done one since I first bought it. It never lost any coolant and I was using conventional oil (15w40) changed every 3500 miles. Never noticed and particles in it.

Though I’m sure me taking the truck swimming didn’t help it. When I hit the bank she just dug and the sand just washed away.
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What are your plans now? I built up a '69 Bronco several years ago and sold it after alot of thought/frustration/angst. I still sort of regret selling it - but it wasn't the right time in my life. Several people told me that I'd be back - building something again down the road. They were right. I couldn't stay away from the process.
 

chap79

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What are your plans now? I built up a '69 Bronco several years ago and sold it after alot of thought/frustration/angst. I still sort of regret selling it - but it wasn't the right time in my life. Several people told me that I'd be back - building something again down the road. They were right. I couldn't stay away from the process.
After a lot of thought I decided to let the truck go to my good friend that can use the truck the way it’s setup. When we moved from CA to MO I knew the wheeling would be different; and the truck is not setup for wheeling in the Midwest. Instead of rebuilding the motor and starting over on the suspension and setup I choose to let it go.

I’ve had a lot of built up off road vehicles. Multiple 80’s, multiple CJ5’s, a couple 4runners, pickups... I need to rethink what the wife and I want to do. Kid is out of the house, we’re empty nesters. I love rock crawling, but a dedicated lighter rig would be better suited to the abuse. As for the camping/overlanding/adventure crap I just have to come to a decision. Newer 4Runner or Tacoma.

Just not sure either of those crowds would accept my cowboy hat.
 

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