Changing your belts in 25 minutes (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So I changed my belts today in 2 hours and 25 minutes...but 2 hours of that was spent getting ready to do it.

5:00pm 72mph up the Camarillo Pass, watching the Scangauge water temp creep up and sit at 200º
5:02pm crested the pass, started coasting, and the temp shot up to 230º (well before the OEM temp gauge budged)
5:03pm exited freeway, Scangauge reads 260º
5:04pm radiator boils over and empties overflow bottle. I am pulled over in a lot across the street from a Mobil station, caddy-corner to a pizza joint and a liquor store
5:06pm 6-pack of Stella under the arm
5:12pm no spare belts in the truck or at Mobil, so AAA on the phone. Flatbed tow truck on the way
5:45pm tow truck arrives. 80 loaded onto flatbed. Rather than towing it 40 miles to my house through rush hour traffic, we opt to stop by Pep Boys and fix it now. As luck would have it the driver would rather hang out and wrench than drive 80 miles round trip.
6:15pm 3 new belts purchased from Pep Boys, $45, and we're on our way to the tow truck driver's house where his full set of tools are as all I have with me that are applicable are gear wrenches and vice grips.
6:45pm arguing over whether to pull the battery tray and belly pan for better access. I say "no, you can change these suckers in 25 minutes or less...look here" and I show him THIS THREAD on my smartphone.
6:46-7pm enjoy another #6 whilst reading ih8mud on a tiny screen in the blaring sun.
7-7:25 loosen up some bolts and install some new belts. Done.
8:10pm home. More #6's.

I met one of the coolest AAA tow truck drivers ever today. May karma be with him forever. He's a Chevy-head but says he understands the TLC lunacy and wanted to see a solid rig back on the road. Rad.

The biggest rub is that I brought my 80 into the local dealership for a power steering hose replacement and flush, and had them replace the belts while there. A day after service I noticed that the belts were running on the wrong side of the idler pulley (ie incorrectly routed to the inside of the pulley as if the idler is a tensioner), but I was on my way out of town and of course since then I'd forgotten about it. Funny thing is, I ran without that damn pulley for a year and only recently put a new one in...seems like an extra piece of metal to me anyway but Mr T says it should be there. I'm interested to see what the service guys at Toyota think of the shredded belts that look like spaghetti I'm going to bring them tomorrow.

I asked my 9 year old what he thought of this picture, and he said "Wow that's rare, Cruisers never get towed." Well, almost never. So, cheers to a rare moment, and thanks IdahoDoug for the 25 minute thread. :cheers:

web.jpg
 
I hoist a frosty one to you IdahoDoug !! :beer::beer:


Thanks for a great thread. Just finished installing 3 new OEM belts and my rig is running and sounding great!

My hat is off to you and all the great guys on IH8MUD that take time to post excellent info like this. It makes owning a Land Cruiser all the more satisfying. :cheers:


-Ed
 
Dammit to hell. That's exactly what happened to me today. I thought it would be a one hour job and 5 hrs later I've stopped to rethink. The alternator adjuster lock bolt outer head is stripped. It has a star tool inner section but it is so tight I'm afraid I'm going to strip that also. Any ideas out there? I'm going to get an extraction 12mm socket to see if I can get a grip on the bolt head. That tampered head feature is ridiculous.

If I can't get it loose, I assume the only option is to remove the whole adjustment bracket from the engine and with it attached to the alternator, remove the alternator to get at that bolt.

Anyone have any other tricks for loosening that alternator adjustment lock bolt?
This happened to me on my 1997 Land Cruiser on Saturday. I was trying to loosen the alternator adjustment lock bolt and I rounded it. Someone had previously really over-tightened it. So, I cut off the belts and removed the radiator to get a better angle and more space. No luck, if it wasn't before, the bolt was now totally rounded. Next I tried to loosen via the torx hole. The bolt was so tight that the torx hole stripped out as well. My heart sank.

I was about to arrange for a tow truck when I decided to do a little internet research yesterday. I found where a guy had some luck with a Grip-Tite socket. I checked their website and they claimed to be able to remove rounded bolts with their sockets. I was skeptical but really had nothing to loose. I bought their 7 piece socket set from Sears that included a 12mm socket. It cost about $22. Yesterday evening I tried it and it worked perfectly.

I am so relieved!

Now I just have to wait a week for a replacement bolt from Toyota unless I get antsy and decide to use a bolt from the hardware story.

I'm a big fan of these GripTite sockets. Here's the link that convinced me to give it a try:
GRIP-TITE Super Socket Set for removing rounded off nuts and bolts! By Better Tools & Fasteners

They make sockets and wrenches. I used the sockets.
 
Shhhhhh...

Shhhh.. listen can you hear that? .... No, that's not a prius, it's my LX with new belts.... Should have done this a year ago.
Thanks IdahoDoug!
:beer::beer::beer:
 
What does it mean if the long bolt under ac pulley or under AC compressor the one you have to go under the car for..

what does it mean if it's really loose I can move out and in with my hands I haven't tried to remove it... i just noticed i can move it back and forth with my hand and it moves the ac pulley as well... I havent unscrewed it yet but I was feeling it out and it moves back and forth without unscrewing it.

or is that normal and I just have to unscrew it like dougs instructions
 
Am I a fool to wait for my belts to break? The AC belt is a single and when it breaks I can live without it. The other belt is doubled up so I'm figuring that I can wait until something breaks and then I can change it out (having have made it home).
 
NerdNoise said:
Am I a fool to wait for my belts to break? The AC belt is a single and when it breaks I can live without it. The other belt is doubled up so I'm figuring that I can wait until something breaks and then I can change it out (having have made it home).

Depends:
Who's to say the AC belt is the first/only belt to go? Belts usualy are replaced at the same time meaning the are usualy all the same age/condition. When one snaps the others aren't far behind.
When worn belts snap they don't always just drop out of the way. Many times they get caught in the other belts and pop one or more of them off.

Belts are the best PM for the buck!

Overheating and blowing your head gasket tring to get home on the freeway or on the trail can get costly fast. Stranded due to losing your alt belt and tring to limp it out of the remote camping spot as the battery goes dead keeping the rig going.
When they go your not always in the "GOLDEN" spot to lose one.

Many of us carry extra belts for such a time.
 
One of my good friends had a belt snap on the highway in the middle of Nowhere, Nebraska... When the belt snapped it took out one of the transmission cooler lines going to the radiator... He lost all fluid on the highway before he knew anything was wrong and completely burned up his transmission. He had to pay for a rebuilt transmission just because he let his belts go too long before replacing them...

YMMV.
 
One of my good friends had a belt snap on the highway in the middle of Nowhere, Nebraska... When the belt snapped it took out one of the transmission cooler lines going to the radiator... He lost all fluid on the highway before he knew anything was wrong and completely burned up his transmission. He had to pay for a rebuilt transmission just because he let his belts go too long before replacing them...

YMMV.

Yeah, exactly. Broken belts are "no big deal" until they tear coolant and fluid lines, ruin your radiator, get caught in your radiator fan and ruin it, cause you to warp your head from overheating, etc.

So, don't worry about it.
 
Well crap.......my 25 minute belt change just blew up on me!

Doing some baseline maintenance on the new-to-me '93.

Shot some PB Blaster and let it soak for an hour.

Got the A/C belt off no problem.

Bust loose the pivot bolt on the Alternator.

Grab a 12mm and start to go for the lock nut on the Alternator tensioner....it is rounded. Socket won't grab. :crybaby:

Nothing I have in my garage will get a grip on that nut, sitting where it is. Tried three different vise grips/channel locks. Not even close to grabbing and swinging.

Before I go nuclear, I figured I would channel the collective wisdom on Mud. I thought about cutting the belts off to give more room for getting a vise grip on the nut....but that seemed too redneck :eek:.

Anyone else had to deal with a rounded alternator tensioner lock nut? How did you achieve victory?

thanks,


Tim
 
I just pulled the idler....a little more room. But the belts really are in the way.

My neck is feeling a bit sunburned....

No to the torx. Do you really think one might grab this rounded hex?
 
I have had good success in the past on rounded bolts/nuts by using one of those "universal" pin type sockets. They conform to anything you put it on. Like this one: Universal socket
 
The bolt should have a torx center, so you can use one of these....

OTC-6022.jpg


Much easier than fiddling with a wrench behind a pair of tightened belts :doh:



aha......I tried my largest torx and it was too small...but I was going female, not male!

I cut the belts and even pulled the fan and wp pulley to get more room. Still can't get the vise grip on the bugger. The angle of the dangle just stinks. Not to mention my forearms are getting cut up about like doing a PHH.

I am wondering if I can get a nut splitter on this thing? Either way, I will need to make a run to buy female torx or a splitter (sheesh....54 years old...you'd think I'd have this stuff by now).
 
I got to the Alternator lock bolt with a 12 mm socket on a 3" extension with a long 3/8" swivel ratchet.
I got to the the alternator adjusting bolt with a stubby wrench. Everything else was left in place (battery tray, etc.).

To get to the a/c tensioner, I removed the engine shield. I used antiseize compound on the shield bolts every few times that I remove those bolts.

It does come in handy to have thin arms, and a large milk crate to stand on to do the Alt. belt adjustment.

Thanks IDDoug. :clap:
 
Last edited:
Just had my fwd (of the dual) belt let go on start-up. This was OEM with 5 years and 40k miles on it. Luckily I shut it down asap and did not do any damage, but it sure made a racket.
Ordered all new OEM belts and will be using Doug's method to replace when they arrive.
Think I will swap at 3 years and/or 30k from now on....T
 
Had a worn pulley eating belts do changed them according to Doug's guidelines and replaced pulley - soooo quiet - easy fix
 
Ok, I just completed this on a new to me 96. It is defiantly hard to see what you are doing but its pretty straight forward. Next time I will do it in the garage, before dark and without holding a greasy flashlight in my mouth. :) my wife thought I had black lipstick on when I came in the house. I think it's a 2 banana job at best.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom