That'll do it.
Changing your belts in 25 minutes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IdahoDoug
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That'll do it.
Hoosier Daddy
SILVER Star
Having just done this job a few minutes ago, my 3 tips are:
1. Don't forget to loosen the lock bolt on the alternator tensioner. (Don't ask.)
2. There is a little hose next to the alternator tensioner. I zip-tied this to the other hoses in this area temporarily to keep it out of the way. This makes swinging a box wrench in that area a hundred times easier.
3. The AC belt would not go on easily even with the idler tensioner completely bottomed out, although the old belt came off quite readily. I just finished loosening the bolt that holds on the idler pulley and the pulley came off. This gave me the extra millimeters I needed to slide the AC belt on.
Took about an hour. Most of that was wasted by not loosening the alt tensioner lock bolt. Now that I've done it, I could do it again in 30 minutes. The 4 bolts on the tiny skid plate are easily worth the time to remove.
1. Don't forget to loosen the lock bolt on the alternator tensioner. (Don't ask.)
2. There is a little hose next to the alternator tensioner. I zip-tied this to the other hoses in this area temporarily to keep it out of the way. This makes swinging a box wrench in that area a hundred times easier.
3. The AC belt would not go on easily even with the idler tensioner completely bottomed out, although the old belt came off quite readily. I just finished loosening the bolt that holds on the idler pulley and the pulley came off. This gave me the extra millimeters I needed to slide the AC belt on.
Took about an hour. Most of that was wasted by not loosening the alt tensioner lock bolt. Now that I've done it, I could do it again in 30 minutes. The 4 bolts on the tiny skid plate are easily worth the time to remove.
The alternator belts do not go "over" the idler pulley. I was really frustrated till I saw the picture in this thread and discovered the magic trick to getting these belts on.
Did my first belt job today with OEM.
After running around with the new ones on I thought I f'd something up because it was that much quieter than my old ribbed belts.
Took the bottom "skid" plate off, swung the steering stabilizer out of the way, and took the battery and tray out to make it easy. Used a Gearwrench 12mm ratcheting box wrench to get the alternator adjuster bolt loose. 12/14mm Sockets for the rest.
I got my new dual belts on pretty darn easy onto the idler pulley. If I did this again it would obviously take me half the time or less.
After running around with the new ones on I thought I f'd something up because it was that much quieter than my old ribbed belts.
Took the bottom "skid" plate off, swung the steering stabilizer out of the way, and took the battery and tray out to make it easy. Used a Gearwrench 12mm ratcheting box wrench to get the alternator adjuster bolt loose. 12/14mm Sockets for the rest.
I got my new dual belts on pretty darn easy onto the idler pulley. If I did this again it would obviously take me half the time or less.
Get rid of the idler pulley and put a screw in.
Makes this job 1000% easier.
Makes this job 1000% easier.
Yeah, you've got to loosen all the way and then use a little elbow grease, at least in my experience.
Cannon88
In the duck blind...
I did this last night, very easy. Of course, I was also replacing my radiator, so most of my front end was off. 
Dammit to hell. That's exactly what happened to me today. I thought it would be a one hour job and 5 hrs later I've stopped to rethink. The alternator adjuster lock bolt outer head is stripped. It has a star tool inner section but it is so tight I'm afraid I'm going to strip that also. Any ideas out there? I'm going to get an extraction 12mm socket to see if I can get a grip on the bolt head. That tampered head feature is ridiculous.
If I can't get it loose, I assume the only option is to remove the whole adjustment bracket from the engine and with it attached to the alternator, remove the alternator to get at that bolt.
Anyone have any other tricks for loosening that alternator adjustment lock bolt?
Great advice. Incorporated this in with a new alternator install. I did unbolt the PS fluid, removed the battery tray, and the diz cap to access the alternator. I pulled the skid plate for the heck of it and it made things easy to see. Made the job easier and next time I should be set. Such great advice on this forum! Thanks!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #113
Would it help with a stuck/stripped bolt to just cut the belts off with a knife to get room, then have better access for a star or similar (and heat, hitting it, etc)? I'd also wire brush any crud off the bolt and see if you can get any penetrating oil behind it (maybe from the other end?). Be sure to hit the bolt with brake cleaner just before you try cranking on it to get oil off and ensure a good grip.
DougM
DougM
I've thought about cutting the belts. I might end up doing that. I haven't so far because once I cut them, I won't have a driveable vehicle until the bolt is out. I've been using a 1/2" breaker bar on the star bit which requires a 1/2-3/8 adapter fitting between the handle and the bit. I'll try a 3/8 ratchet with a piece of pipe on it this morning. It will put the handle about 1" closer to the bolt so there will be less of a tendency to twist. I did clean out the star socket with brake cleaner yesterday and put some Comet on the end of the star bit to help it grip better.
I shot some penetrant in from behind yesterday so perhaps it will have worked overnight.
Thanks Doug for this post! Just finished my belt change, per this thread, and now my LC engine is soooo quiet! It starts up and just purrrs. For me, taking the battery and battery tray out made it way easier and only added about 10 minutes to the job.
Thecriscokid
Supporting Vendor
Thanks for the tips. I just did mine today. I just bought the rig and one blew yesterday(was going to do them anyway)
Lesson learned don't always do it how it came off. Yup the belts that were on there were carqwest and much longer. the mech ran the belts up and over the idler wheel and not around in a simple triangle (Those belts only had 3k or so of miles on them). A couple of attempts and I was double checking OEM part #'s and looking for a diagram. The OEM belts went on just like they should when looped properly.
Now, question: after the belt blew and I started it I got a bunch of random lights that came on, then quickly went away. After the new belts are on those same lights are flickering at low idle. The red square by batt charge, the AT Fluid light and a couple others. Any ideas?
Lesson learned don't always do it how it came off. Yup the belts that were on there were carqwest and much longer. the mech ran the belts up and over the idler wheel and not around in a simple triangle (Those belts only had 3k or so of miles on them). A couple of attempts and I was double checking OEM part #'s and looking for a diagram. The OEM belts went on just like they should when looped properly.
Now, question: after the belt blew and I started it I got a bunch of random lights that came on, then quickly went away. After the new belts are on those same lights are flickering at low idle. The red square by batt charge, the AT Fluid light and a couple others. Any ideas?
Thanks for the tips. Still took me over 1 1/2 hours. You must have slinky hands to be able to get to the main belt tightner without doing it from the bottom. LOL
I am going to tackle mine today..i have read and seem some debate on the how far to tighten the belts. How tight do you want them at first to allow for the room to stretch and not have to retighten them. Say if you pushed with one finger on first install how much movement should they have?
got it done..took me about 1.5 hours..bc i took out the battery box and battery. I have big arms and hands..the alt. tensioner bolt was not happening for me without it out, but once i saw it and took it all apart..reassembly was cake..like 15 min. Changed out a seized caliper as well today and fixed both front window regulators. It was a productive day for the LC
