Changing the spark plugs (8 Viewers)

[lcjockey]

What confuses me the most are the options and which option to choose if any and why-

2017 LC
Toyota: 90919-01191

Denso

Stock # 3381​

Stock # 3421​

Stock # 4506​

Stock # 4704​

Stock # 5344​

NGK: https://www.ngk.com/spark-plugs-ngk
#LFR6CGP
#ILFR6T-11
#LFR6AIX-11
#PLFR6A-11
#LFR6AHX-S

So which Denso and NGK correspond to the toyota 90919-01191? Are any of the Denso or NGK better options?

Thanks

 

[04UZJ100]

What confuses me the most are the options and which option to choose if any and why-

2017 LC
Toyota: 90919-01191

Denso

Stock # 3381​

Stock # 3421​

Stock # 4506​

Stock # 4704​

Stock # 5344​

NGK: https://www.ngk.com/spark-plugs-ngk
#LFR6CGP
#ILFR6T-11
#LFR6AIX-11
#PLFR6A-11
#LFR6AHX-S

So which Denso and NGK correspond to the toyota 90919-01191? Are any of the Denso or NGK better options?

Thanks

Just use Toyota OEM parts from a Toyota dealer. Don’t try and outsmart them.

 

[Adrenaline6]

What confuses me the most are the options and which option to choose if any and why-

2017 LC
Toyota: 90919-01191

Denso

Stock # 3381​

Stock # 3421​

Stock # 4506​

Stock # 4704​

Stock # 5344​

NGK: https://www.ngk.com/spark-plugs-ngk
#LFR6CGP
#ILFR6T-11
#LFR6AIX-11
#PLFR6A-11
#LFR6AHX-S

So which Denso and NGK correspond to the toyota 90919-01191? Are any of the Denso or NGK better options?

Thanks

The 3381 is a standard resistor plug

The 3421 is the SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life. OEM plug.

The 4506 is the PKH20TT Twin Tip Platinum

The 4704 is the IKH20TT Iridium Twin Tip Ultimate Endurance and Power. I just changed mine to these. Works great.

The 5344 is the IKH20 Iridium Power.

All will work. Denso makes these specifically for this engine. Some will last longer, some will maybe make a tiny bit more power and have better flame exposure in the combustion chamber.

 

[doru]

I just use SK20HR11 Stock # 3421. It is not just Denso listing them, but they are actually specified in the Toyota factory repair manual.

 

[lcjockey]

I just use SK20HR11 Stock # 3421. It is not just Denso listing them, but they are actually specified in the Toyota factory repair manual.

Plugs are the same for all 200 series?

 

[04UZJ100]

Plugs are the same for all 200 series?

Yes

 

[coleAK]

So I changed my plugs this past weekend (‘13 LX, 120k miles). It took me 2.5 hrs, most of that time on the passenger side posterior plug. I used OEM denso, I think the key is to have at least 4 or 5 different length socket extensions and a socket wrench with a rotating head. I removed the air box but didn’t unplug the harness from the firewall. I’ll post pictures of the tools I used later.

My plugs looked awful (but the gap was still 0.044) , and I saw a 20% increase in MPG. 12.5 to almost 15. I’ll probably change them again (if I still have the LX) in 60k miles.

 

[bloc]

I have a weird quirk to add...

I recently did the second plug change on my 200 and had some issues. The spark plug socket I was using could grab the plug and turn just fine, and would come out with the old plug. But when running the new ones in, the thing would get jammed and refuse to come off the plug, with the extension slipping out.

I've had vehicles do this in the past when the rubber gripper was too strong, but in this case I lubed the thing and it was still happening.

It turns out my spark plug socket was -just- large enough to get stuck in the well behind a small shoulder down at the level of the plug when it was seated, but not grab it enough to impact the feel of turning it in. As the old plug was unthreaded it would push the socket above this shoulder so it no longer grabbed. When I figured this out and prevented putting the socket all the way down in the well, I had no more issues.

So I measured the socket and figured I'd post the dimension to help people prevent this problem. I'll now hunt for a thin-walled spark plug socket to avoid this problem when I do my next plug change in five years..

 

[coleAK]

I have a weird quirk to add...

I recently did the second plug change on my 200 and had some issues. The spark plug socket I was using could grab the plug and turn just fine, and would come out with the old plug. But when running the new ones in, the thing would get jammed and refuse to come off the plug, with the extension slipping out.

I've had vehicles do this in the past when the rubber gripper was too strong, but in this case I lubed the thing and it was still happening.

It turns out my spark plug socket was -just- large enough to get stuck in the well behind a small shoulder down at the level of the plug when it was seated, but not grab it enough to impact the feel of turning it in. As the old plug was unthreaded it would push the socket above this shoulder so it no longer grabbed. When I figured this out and prevented putting the socket all the way down in the well, I had no more issues.

So I measured the socket and figured I'd post the dimension to help people prevent this problem. I'll now hunt for a thin-walled spark plug socket to avoid this problem when I do my next plug change in five years..

View attachment 3603848

I had the same thing happen. I thought it was odd but when I fiddled with the socket enough it came out. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[coleAK]

Here are the tools I used. And a shot of some of the plugs (they all looked similar)


Also @bloc my plug socket is 21.71mm in diameter.

 

[lcjockey]

This may be a stupid question but do you have to bang out all the plugs at once? I was thinking of knocking out the drivers side this week and the more time consuming passenger side next week. Wish I had more time in the day but thought this might be feasible. Thanks for the advice!

 

[bloc]

This may be a stupid question but do you have to bang out all the plugs at once? I was thinking of knocking out the drivers side this week and the more time consuming passenger side next week. Wish I had more time in the day but thought this might be feasible. Thanks for the advice!

Shouldn't hurt, but the driver's side is much quicker. I'd suggest just start with the rear passenger, which is the toughest, then see what you want to finish that day from there, understanding that none of them will take even half as long.

 

[doru]

Yes, you can split the two. I've done it like that as I had a chore to run in between. Besides cover there is no overlapping operation between the two sides. I just left the cover off until I finished both sides. I did not bother with disconnecting the battery for changing plugs.

 

[NKP Garage]

This may be a stupid question but do you have to bang out all the plugs at once? I was thinking of knocking out the drivers side this week and the more time consuming passenger side next week. Wish I had more time in the day but thought this might be feasible. Thanks for the advice!

Do them all at once. Your ECU will adjust fueling once you install new plugs every time, if you pay close attention you will notice it.

I recently did the plugs on mine and video taped the process. It should take you 1hr or less, not very hard to do:

-

 

[doru]

You can reset the ECU if that is a problem but it is not. As said the ECU is always adjusting.

 

[lcjockey]

Do them all at once. Your ECU will adjust fueling once you install new plugs every time, if you pay close attention you will notice it.

I recently did the plugs on mine and video taped the process. It should take you 1hr or less, not very hard to do:

-

Thanks, yeah maybe an hour for most the plugs but I know for sure that rear passenger side will be at least 6 hours with my luck.

 

[lcjockey]

Another question-I purchased a set of NGK ILFR6T11 (4904) plugs which are supposed to spec out at 0.043. I measure 0.038 on all 8 plugs. Contacted NGK and they told me not to gap them to 0.044 and install as is and let them expand with use. I wouldn't be twerking over a difference of 0.002-3 but 0.005 seems out of spec. Is there a gap range? Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[NKP Garage]

Another question-I purchased a set of NGK ILFR6T11 (4904) plugs which are supposed to spec out at 0.043. I measure 0.038 on all 8 plugs. Contacted NGK and they told me not to gap them to 0.044 and install as is and let them expand with use. I wouldn't be twerking over a difference of 0.002-3 but 0.005 seems out of spec. Is there a gap range? Thoughts? Thanks!

Grab yourself a set of wobble extensions and it'll be breeze. You don't have to won't have to remove the lower clamshell of the airbox, and for that rear plug on the passenger side all you have to do is remove those two 12mm bolts for the bracket over it, after that its easy to get the plug out with the right combo of wobble extensions.

 

[KLF]

This seems to be the place for spark plug changing tips, so here ya go. Did this job last night. 7 of the 8 were remarkably easy. Note that my airbox and intake hose was already removed, as I was doing the radiator at the same time. It's not hard to take it out, I recommend doing so.

The worst part about plug #8 is the hard coolant lines. I did not disconnect the large harness or loosen that rear fusebox. Besides the two bolts at the rear of the engine, I also removed the additional bolt at the center to give them more movement. The main struggle is holding these pipes out of the way enough to get access needed. Then this happened, made it sooo much easier:

Just a simple cinch strap tied off to the cover bracket on the intake, holds the pipes up and out of the way for you. Lots of room now, easy to get the job done.

Besides the various tools already stated here, a headlamp makes this job much easier to see what you're doing.

 

[jboogie]

Hey, I just did this today. It still works pretty well, but I had a quirk at the end. I have a 2009 LX570 with 124K (just bought it 6 months ago). I started on the driver's side to get used to the process. No issues there. You definitely need the articulating & magnetic spark plug sockets, those came in handy. I put it all back together and started it up. No issues. I left the battery plugged in the whole time. I also used OEM Denso plugs.
Then I started on the passenger side, ripped out the airbox, etc. I even took out the relay box bolts and slid it around and unplugged the gray lever thingamajig plugged into the firewall, as described in the original directions. I then started at the plug buried under the cooling lines. Its a bit of a pain, but not super bad. A few minutes after unplugging the big electrical thingamajig in the firewall, I got a weird hissing noise, like air or even refrigerant. I jammed the thingamajig back in and flipped the gray lever and it stopped. Crisis averted (maybe!). I have no idea what it was. I got the sparkplug in, put all the cooling lines in and finished the other 3. Those are actually easier than the driver's due to the air box being removed and having a lot more room to work. Torqued everything and plugged everything back in. This time I started it, and there was a weird lull on start up... starter kicked in, engine kinda was slow to start (aka lull) and then it fired up. Then I got a zillion lights... 4Lo, skiddy tires and then the "Check VSC System" (maybe a few others but i forgot to take a pic). I shut it off and restarted. Same thing... Check VSC, slow start and same lights. Then I read a few IH8 posts about VSC and decided to unplug the battery, which seemed to be the simplest solution. I checked all the wires, connectors, jiggled/pushed them and made sure all the coil gaskets were there. Everything was in place. After 5-10 minutes, I reconnected the battery and fired it up. All the lights cleared and it started normally (no lull)! WHEW! I drove it around the block and shut it off. Restarted it again and NO ISSUES! So lets hope it was just an ECU reset or whatever the the battery unplug/replug did. Lets hope that was the last of VSC error. If its not, I will be back!!