Changing the spark plugs (2 Viewers)

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What confuses me the most are the options and which option to choose if any and why-

2017 LC
Toyota: 90919-01191

Denso

Stock # 3381​

Stock # 3421​

Stock # 4506​

Stock # 4704​

Stock # 5344​


NGK: https://www.ngk.com/spark-plugs-ngk
#LFR6CGP
#ILFR6T-11
#LFR6AIX-11
#PLFR6A-11
#LFR6AHX-S

So which Denso and NGK correspond to the toyota 90919-01191? Are any of the Denso or NGK better options?

Thanks
 
What confuses me the most are the options and which option to choose if any and why-

2017 LC
Toyota: 90919-01191

Denso

Stock # 3381​

Stock # 3421​

Stock # 4506​

Stock # 4704​

Stock # 5344​


NGK: https://www.ngk.com/spark-plugs-ngk
#LFR6CGP
#ILFR6T-11
#LFR6AIX-11
#PLFR6A-11
#LFR6AHX-S

So which Denso and NGK correspond to the toyota 90919-01191? Are any of the Denso or NGK better options?

Thanks
Just use Toyota OEM parts from a Toyota dealer. Don’t try and outsmart them.
 
What confuses me the most are the options and which option to choose if any and why-

2017 LC
Toyota: 90919-01191

Denso

Stock # 3381​

Stock # 3421​

Stock # 4506​

Stock # 4704​

Stock # 5344​


NGK: https://www.ngk.com/spark-plugs-ngk
#LFR6CGP
#ILFR6T-11
#LFR6AIX-11
#PLFR6A-11
#LFR6AHX-S

So which Denso and NGK correspond to the toyota 90919-01191? Are any of the Denso or NGK better options?

Thanks

The 3381 is a standard resistor plug

The 3421 is the SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life. OEM plug.

The 4506 is the PKH20TT Twin Tip Platinum

The 4704 is the IKH20TT Iridium Twin Tip Ultimate Endurance and Power. I just changed mine to these. Works great.

The 5344 is the IKH20 Iridium Power.

All will work. Denso makes these specifically for this engine. Some will last longer, some will maybe make a tiny bit more power and have better flame exposure in the combustion chamber.
 
Last edited:
So I changed my plugs this past weekend (‘13 LX, 120k miles). It took me 2.5 hrs, most of that time on the passenger side posterior plug. I used OEM denso, I think the key is to have at least 4 or 5 different length socket extensions and a socket wrench with a rotating head. I removed the air box but didn’t unplug the harness from the firewall. I’ll post pictures of the tools I used later.

My plugs looked awful (but the gap was still 0.044) , and I saw a 20% increase in MPG. 12.5 to almost 15. I’ll probably change them again (if I still have the LX) in 60k miles.
 
I have a weird quirk to add...

I recently did the second plug change on my 200 and had some issues. The spark plug socket I was using could grab the plug and turn just fine, and would come out with the old plug. But when running the new ones in, the thing would get jammed and refuse to come off the plug, with the extension slipping out.

I've had vehicles do this in the past when the rubber gripper was too strong, but in this case I lubed the thing and it was still happening.

It turns out my spark plug socket was -just- large enough to get stuck in the well behind a small shoulder down at the level of the plug when it was seated, but not grab it enough to impact the feel of turning it in. As the old plug was unthreaded it would push the socket above this shoulder so it no longer grabbed. When I figured this out and prevented putting the socket all the way down in the well, I had no more issues.

So I measured the socket and figured I'd post the dimension to help people prevent this problem. I'll now hunt for a thin-walled spark plug socket to avoid this problem when I do my next plug change in five years..

IMG_2484.JPG
 
I have a weird quirk to add...

I recently did the second plug change on my 200 and had some issues. The spark plug socket I was using could grab the plug and turn just fine, and would come out with the old plug. But when running the new ones in, the thing would get jammed and refuse to come off the plug, with the extension slipping out.

I've had vehicles do this in the past when the rubber gripper was too strong, but in this case I lubed the thing and it was still happening.

It turns out my spark plug socket was -just- large enough to get stuck in the well behind a small shoulder down at the level of the plug when it was seated, but not grab it enough to impact the feel of turning it in. As the old plug was unthreaded it would push the socket above this shoulder so it no longer grabbed. When I figured this out and prevented putting the socket all the way down in the well, I had no more issues.

So I measured the socket and figured I'd post the dimension to help people prevent this problem. I'll now hunt for a thin-walled spark plug socket to avoid this problem when I do my next plug change in five years..

View attachment 3603848
I had the same thing happen. I thought it was odd but when I fiddled with the socket enough it came out. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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